Rsparozi Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 This was my first attempt at what I would refer to as a tanto. 1095, as are most of my blades since I come across files quite often due to my wife's business. I etched my friend's initials at the base of the blade, and completed the handle with zebra wood scales and steel pins. He's very pleased with the blade, but I perceive that it likely never gets used. As you can see the base of the blade right above the handle is a bit rough, and scales are uneven. Comes from a mix of impatience and excitement to complete it, something I need to work on. Biggest struggle I continue to have is fit and finish around the base of the blade. The grinder can take the smallest amount of epoxy and wipe it entirely across the face of the knife. My own fault for not taking the time to sit with a piece of fine grit sand paper. Still quite happy with it. Feel free to comment and critique; any helpful advice is always greatly appreciated. Best Regards, Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 How fast a cure epoxy are you using and how much longer are you letting it cure? The slower epoxy takes to cure the stronger and harder it is. Fast sets say under 2hr. don't like heat, you can unglue it at around 300-350f where a good 24hr. epoxy has to be ground off or burnt out at around 500f. In the rubber plant we categorized 24 hr. epoxy as one of the fast sets and would cut the catalyst at least in half and let it cure a week for engine parts. We did aircraft parts and used heat cure phenolics for most engine parts. Neat stuff phenolic resins. Anyway, use a slow setting epoxy and leave it at least 2x the label cure time before putting it on the grinder. Don't be afraid to keep it warm while it cures either on top of the condenser coils of a freezer is a good spot. 100f+ some is a good way to push cure time without hurting the stickem. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Please don't call it 1095 unless you can prove it. It is a knife made from a file. Even some manufacturers have changed their alloys used over the years so you need not only the maker but the when as well. Not a problem if it heat treats well; but be a stickler about what you offer to others! (The old black diamond files from before nicholson stamped the other side with their name were 1.2% C and so NOT 1095!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsparozi Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Frosty that's great advice...Thus far I've only used fast setting epoxy -gorilla glue fast setting - which advertises a 30min setting time in which the blade is not to be handled, with full weight bearing capabilities in 24 hours. After an hour or so I will begin to do the sanding on the handle. I'll poke around on here and see where I can pick up the longer curing and will use that on the blade I'm currently working on. Thanks. Mr. Powers, that is a fair point, thank you for the correction. I've made it a point that knives I give away are only to be crafted from aged Nicholson files, feeling somewhat naively confident I guess that what I was using was quality steel. I'm sure there are many threads on here that speak to this topic, so it appears I have reading material for the rest of the evening! Once again, I thank you for the correction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 It's not that it might not be quality steel, it's that it probably isn't 1095. There are MANY other quality high carbon alloys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Like W1 for instance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 In addition to the ever popular case hardened mild steels, the out of production F series comes to mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Steve, Could you tell me what "production F series" signifies? I will appreciate that. Regards, SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 out of productions means no one makes it any more. I think F series was a Tungsten Alloy, but maybe it was a Vanadium alloy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Steve, Thank you for the definition. Regards, SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 16 minutes ago, Steve Sells said: out of productions means no one makes it any more. I think F series was a Tungsten Alloy, but maybe it was a Vanadium alloy According to ASTM A-681-08: F1: C=0.95-1.25, Mn=0.00-0.50, P=0.030 max, S=0.030 max, Si=0.10-0.50, W=1.00-1.75 F2: C=1.20-1.40, Mn=0.10-0.50, P=0.030 max, S=0.030 max, Si=0.10-0.50, Cr=0.20-0.40, W=3.00-4.50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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