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Advice on an anvil design


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depends on what you are working on it, at a guess your anvil should be at least 20 times the weight of your hammer, what is the weight of the hammers you use compared to the steel block

a much heavier chunk of rail or fork lift fork may be much better and if you were a bit further south I would suggest you call in and try the 20 or so anvils, blocks, cylinders and rails I have here

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The block itself wouldn't be up to that but I was hoping the concrete would provide the mass needed.

But I will try to look into an 4340 piece, just seem to be struggling to find a supplier that does the quantity I want. 

That does sound like ano impressive  collection, would be cool to see.

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Well to begin with I am looking to learn basic techniques, so tongs, chisels,candlesticks, door hinges etc.

Just smaller pieces that expose me to a few different techniques, once I get to grips with them I hope to get a bigger anvil to work on.

I am hoping to put a hardie hole into my first one so I can build some tools for curves, so a horn isn't essential at this point.

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52 minutes ago, Zeroclick said:

Well to begin with I am looking to learn basic techniques, so tongs, chisels,candlesticks, door hinges etc.

Just smaller pieces that expose me to a few different techniques, once I get to grips with them I hope to get a bigger anvil to work on.

I am hoping to put a hardie hole into my first one so I can build some tools for curves, so a horn isn't essential at this point.

That makes me happy; You want to learn blacksmithing first, not bladesmithing (nothing wrong with bladesmiths, but this makes me think of my own beginning! Tools and hardware, as I say!) 

 

The curves can be done: 

1) over the edge of the anvil without a cone or horn- its really easy to do, and once you start hitting hot iron, you will see how it forms an "anvil" on itself- I.e., each time you hit it unsupported, it curves a certain amount, making nice gracile curves, once you have the hang of it. 

or, 2) with vice-mounted bending forks and forms. This removed the need for a hardy hole, as even a machinist vice (cast iron) can withstand bending motions, to a degree (don't go overboard, though.) if you're using mostly smaller stock, then there is no reason a light duty vise can be used for twisting, bending and curving. It makes a good non-impact tool holder. 

 

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Thanks I like the idea of making some bending forks, I have a vice that will suit it perfectly.

I will look into getting a sledge hammer or a big chunk of something hardenable.

If I did use a big chunk of mild steel wouldn't that deform quickly with use.

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35 minutes ago, Zeroclick said:

Thanks I like the idea of making some bending forks, I have a vice that will suit it perfectly.

I will look into getting a sledge hammer or a big chunk of something hardenable.

If I did use a big chunk of mild steel wouldn't that deform quickly with use.

I used one (120mm diameter x 200mm high mild steel) for the past 9 months and it took the odd ding but that was from me mishitting with the hammer. If you hit steel that is too cold that will mark it up too, its easy to redress the surface if it gets a little messed up anyway. It's better to be doing something and learning than waiting around for the ideal thing to come up.

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23 minutes ago, Zeroclick said:

Ok that does make sense.

I have been on the steel hunt this afternoon and might have a lead at a local scrap yard so I will be going down there tomorrow. Hopefully hammering some steel by the weekend.

Have a look online to see if there are any metal fabrication companies nearby who may have heavy stock left over from jobs. The smaller shop the better as you are more likely to be talking to the guy who can say OK to what you want. That's how I got the piece I mentioned. I would recommend calling in person rather than phoning, and offer money at least equal to scrap value -  though some guys will give you stuff for free if you tell them what its for.

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So today has been a good day, yesterday I spoke to a local scrap yard and they said they didn't think they had anything that would work but I was free to come down and have a look around.

The first thing I see is a huge pile of Railroad track, couplers etc. So couldn't be any better. I have come away with a 10" length of rail and a 3 foot piece of square stock to practice with.

But I am really happy as I now have a good local supply :)

 

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15 minutes ago, Zeroclick said:

I mentioned that I was getting into blacksmithing, gave him my number if he comes across any traditional anvils he said he would call.

But to feel free to come down for whatever I need.

Great resource!

By the way, there's another IFI thread that shows a RR knuckle mounted for use as an anvil.

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It's 3/4" didn't think it would be to bad for practice.

I could have had a 6 foot piece of rail but I thought that might be a bit much, and it is only 10 mins from my house so I can always get some more.

I think I will go back next week and get a coupler and some of the rail ties to straighten out which will give me some nice lengths of round stock to work with.

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Ah, I was thinking somthing like 4" or so. And anvil in its own right. 6' isn't bad, if you can cut it to about 30" (or dig a hole 3 1/2' deap) rail is generaly good steel, the web being 3/4" the flags being 7/8" at the thickest and tapering to 1/2" and the head being 1 1/2 x 3" so we have hammer head stock, and punch stock, and... 

Steve has a 3' chunk right on his forge table, he marked the side at 1" intervals with a cut off wheel, and carved a shallow concave at one end. He straitens sword blades on it. Some one (who shale remain nameless) made a "Swiss army anvil" out of a 12" chunk. Infact I have a basket of peices cut up for other projects (small Vikingesk anvils and bicks) and TJ used the bottom flange to face an anvil project. 

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