Thank you for all of your knowledge and information. I have a few pictures to share with you and get your opinion on an anvil that I have. It is a Hercules anvil and is in pretty fair shape. The table has a raised section to the rear. I would like to have your opinion on this anvil. Thanks again. Bryan.

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Hate to tell you but your anvil has lost it's hardened steel face forward of the raised heel portion. What you are left with is the soft wrought iron base not a good workable anvil.

BTW if you put your location in your profile, you may be surprised how many of the gang are close to you and many answers are location dependent.

Looks like a good candidate for the Gunther repair if it can be obtained for cheap enough. The area where the face used to be appears to be fairly flat and the edges have not been pounded away.

I did the 3/4 inch steel ball drop and it rebounded very well. It has a nice ring to it. Is the raised area repair or is it a different kind of work area for something different? Thanks for the replies. 

The face of earlier Hay Budden anvils was a seperate piece of alloy steel that was forge welded on. Sometimes the forge weld failed over time and that area of the face would crack and fall off as it appears has happened to that anvil. 

Look for a serial number on the bottom edge under the horn. We can provide a date and know the anvils construction method.

Did you test with a bearing on the left over raised part? When you say it rebounded well did you eyeball it? Sometimes people tend to throw the bearing at the surface which results in a false reading.  If you think you need an accurate reading get a ruler and drop the bearing from 10 inches and see how hight the first bounce is. 9" bounce would be 90%, 5" would be 50%.

I did it on the lower portion. I will do a more scientific and controlled test and video and measure to a more accurate rebound test. I will get back to you. Thanks again. 

Well after more inspection the number 22 was on the waist area in front below the horn. On the foot below the other number is 886 ' 1. This is very hart to read. there is some kind of marking between the 6 and the number 1. 

Sorry I didn't clarify earlier that I'm pretty sure Hay Budden produced this under the Hercules name. 

That serial number would be from 1903. At that time Hay Budden anvils were a 3 piece design, the base which went about halfway up the base, the upper body and the faceplate. Around 1908 they went to a 2 piece design with no face plate. The 22 is an inspection mark. (Richard Postman and his fine book deserves credit for this knowledge)

If it still rings when struck indicates that the remaining face plate and the rest of the anvil is structurally sound.

Unless you are a competent welder or know one that will donate their time it probably will be too expensive to pay for the correct repair to be done. I don't know where you are but I have read about there being anvil repair clinics hosted by the local blacksmith groups. 

Hey thanks for all of your advice. I'm in California and would love to talk to you and get your opinion on how to fix it and or if it is still useable. I am just starting in the blacksmithing endeavor. I do know a very competent welder but from what I have read and watched on YouTube the proper steps need to be taken to preserve this anvil. Give me call if you like to discuss my options. It maybe easier over the phone, due to all of my questions.  Bryan 626-664-2048

What do you base your judgement on that what is shown on youtube is a proper method?  We have many people show up here having followed youtube videos that claimed to be great but were really totally bogus! (and often quite upset with us when we tell them they have thrown away their budget and could have done it better and cheaper if they had NOT gone to youtube first.)  When I picked a surgeon earlier this year I checked on how many times he had done the surgery and then talked with patients to see if they were happy with his work.  I did not just go on his word and perhaps those of his friends commenting on it...

Last time I saw an anvil get a total face build up from a professional welder using industrial equipment it took around 5-6 HOURS of work, a bunch of pounds of consumables, a bunch of grinding media, a tank of propane for the preheat---the welder taught welding at the Community College as well as being a top notch smith---

Luckily for the owner it was an anvil repair clinic run by a local ABANA affiliate and he only accepted money for the consumables and not the typical US$100 an hour shop rate! (may be higher in CA)

I am trying to get as much information as possible to get an idea of who and where to take this anvil. I do not want to ruin it. I see you are from TX hope all is well with all of the flooding. I have a college teacher who teaches welding. I was going to talk to him and see his opinion. Who do you recommend and is there anyone in my area southern Cal. What college in TX does this anvil clinic take place. Thanks again.

I have been to several anvil clinics offered by different ABANA affiliates; you might check your local one and see if they host one.  Remember you can be a top notch welder and still mess up an anvil through not knowing about anvils!  (Same thing for Machinists!)  If you must rework an anvil look up the Robb Gunther method and follow it EXACTLY!

The clinic that refaced that anvil (and later my 410 pound Trenton?  repaired) was not held at a college; the lead was a welding instructor at a local community college and a top smith as well.

Thank you very  much. All who have responded have been very help full. Thanks again.

Robb Gunter still repairs anvils and could possibly repair yours. Look up "Gunter Method" He lives in Edgewood NM if you wish to look him up.

Thank you for the name of Gunter. I will look him up. 

I thought I could add something to this topic. 

 

I took 3 slow motion videos of a ball bearing test. I used a tube with 1 inch graduated lines to add visual

 

I Take measurements from the BOTTOM of the ball, starting with the bottom at the 10" line. 

252# Hay Budden. Where I do the majority of my hammering I get about 92%

 

By the hardy hole i estimate 86-87%

 

My 125lb Columbian with a less than ideal mount. Gets about 75%

 

Hope this helps someone!

Nice video, thanks, more precise than I worry about but good test method. Love the audio.

Good job. 

Frosty The Lucky.

That's a rather ingenious way of doing it. Well done sir. 

 

All the best 

Andy 

Thank you so much fo doing this!  It’s really helpful for the newbies like me! 

Thomas, as I may have mentioned i found a Mahogany pattern in a back room, dusted it off and plan on pouring a few as I have had several requests as of late. I pour 5 to 10 tons of H13 castings a month and this is the perfect size for Xtra metal I often have in my 1 ton heats. The price of $8 per lb that most anvils are listed at makes it an attractive product idea. If I can keep the part under 75 lbs i can also ship it on UPS instead of truck. I will know the weight after I pour a sample next week. I will post a pic of the pattern and casting soon. 

Actually UPS will ship up to 150 lb via UPS Ground.  Not cheap, but doable.

Fastenal stores ship for $50 to their stores, and I have used Greyhound for large car parts. 

Thanks for the into to anvils, Everything Mac.  I am a retired newbie.  I have forged some hooks in a previous life and now that I have more time (yeah, sure!) I want to get into moving metal.  This site has been very educational.  Thanks, again.

Is a 26kg anvil a good anvil for a novice? I have the option on buying one?

 

What does the ball bearing test say?    Are you sure on that weight?  I don't recall ever seeing a cast stand for such a small anvil.  I might use one for a travel anvil; but as a shop anvil---well it depends on what you will be doing---which you don't mention---(Should I buy a commuter car or a dump truck?  Why can't you give me a simple answer?)