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Anvils: A beginner buyers guide


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  • 11 months later...

Welcome aboard Jimmy. Sadly we lost a lot of pictures due to a forum update (around 2016) most prior to the update were gone. There is no way to recover them, unless the original posters reload them in a new post. If you put your location in your profile, you may be surprised how many members are close to you.

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Welcome aboard Jimmy, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header it'll improve your chances of hooking up with other members living within visiting distance.

Your login has me wondering if you're one of the Almond brothers. 

If you hadn't noticed I LOVE a good straight line and rarely even try to resist a pun within my grasp. :)

Frosty The Lucky.

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Fortunately during my brief stint in an office a shower of wadded up paper was a violent a reaction to punishment as regulations and law allowed.

One learned quickly to TRY to control the picking up of straight lines around your supervisors. They are notorious for not having a sense of humor which is demonstrated every time one attempts to make a joke. What made it really tough was every darned one seemed to be a font of straight lines. Nobody who takes themselves as seriously as a bureaucrat is anything but easy to make jokes about. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the insight.  1st day on the site.  1st week looking seriously at jumping into the craft. 

Found an 23" long, 80lb piece of rail at the local scrap yard today...when I told the guy I was going to try to shape it some for use as an anvil he said he had one in the back...brought up a 300lb anvil.  I have no real skill in determining the condition...I don't see any markings on it near the body or waist.  The edges were a bit banged up on the face but there seemed to be some straight sections in the rear of the face near the hardy hole.  The face itself was a bit bruised too.  However for 100 bucks it seems worth it. 

Sight unseen...can anyone tell me why not to purchase at this price regardless of condition vs. my alternative to buying the 23" section of rail for 35 bucks.   Wish I had taken a few pictures to post but then didn't know this site even existing at 230p earlier today...any feedback would be welcome

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Drop the keyboard; grab a ballpeen and git!  What you want to check is that the face is still there and is still hard.  Tapping it with a ballpeen to see if it bounces and rings nicely will cover almost all good anvils except the Fisher and Vulcan.  They won't ring but they will bounce.  Anvils with no ring and no bounce probably are not anvils but ASO Anvil Shaped Objects.

Note that good deals on anvils disappear extremely fast---tomorrow may be too late already!  Only takes a "Gee anvils on ebay are going for 12 dollars a pound" and it's gone!

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Glenn and Thomas...that was my gut as well but the 300lbs of logistics held me back.  I told my wife what I found and she was already wondering if it was in the back of her Honda.   I am just finishing a major overhaul of the garage and now am going to stick 300lbs of steel on a big wood round in the space I just cleared.  Too much too fast...but I suppose I'll snag it tomorrow.  Thanks.

 

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Well if it's a decent anvil you can always trade down: Offer to trade a 300# anvil for a 150# in better shape or a 100# in great shape.  They are both selling for over 10 times a pound what you would pay for that one!  My 410# Trenton was a trade for a 125# PW + a screw&screwbox for a postvise and US$100 boot.  It's owner was tired of moving it from house to house but *might* want to get into smithing someday... Got any friends with a minivan or pickup?

I recently sold a 248# Peter Wright with definite wear to it and a bad edge for $1000 and that was considered below market pricing...

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GM Thomas and Glen.

Here is my find...brought it home today.  Looks a little concave on the face up near the table to my newbie eye.   Some nicks on the near side edge.  This puppy must have seen some action to have a bow in the face like that I suppose.

For a 100 bucks and a little cleaning up it should do the trick for starting out.

Thoughts?

email_anvil4.jpg

email_anvil1.jpg

email_anvil2.jpg

email_anvil3.jpg

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Looks like a Peter Wright to me with the sway and the flats on the feet; any weight stampings around the waist height---it would be in CWT. With that wear it only has another century or too of use left in it *IF* you don't grind or mill the face, the sway isn't that big of an issue; messing with the face will destroy it's value as an anvil.

(Peter Wrights used a high grade wrought iron in their bodies which is more plastic than the cheap grades.  Also larger anvils tend to be tempered softer to take a lot of sledge work on them.

I would have left rubber on the road to get that one at that price!

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I'm not doing anything drastic to this...no milling or grinding  Just looking to take the rust off of it and clean it up.

Sounds like I did well on this one?

Now I need to read up on a simple forge.

Thanks for your feedback sir.

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A simple forge is a hole in the ground burning charcoal with some sort of blower. MUCH more convenient is the JABOD which has a large section devoted to them on  these forums.

I've been pushing building JBODS in junked gas grill's so they can be stored outside without precipitation issues---or freaking out the neighbors.

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Will start reading today...thanks again.  The goal is to have 4 hotdog/marshmallow grilling tools before the winter is over for my boys. 

Yes...I've been looking at a section of dirt just outside my garage where I'll be working.  the open fire bit at the end of the night is what is concerning me.  Seen some simple propane fire brick set ups which are appealing for break down purposes.  I'll read and get to critical mass on decision making then circle back with thoughts on pros/cons if you don't mind

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At the end of the day pull the fire out of the forge and spread it out a bit.  In the 20 minutes or so it takes to clean up the fire will die.  Rake up the fuel and put it in a 5 gallon bucket of water.  Be sure and empty the ash dump and put some water on the ashes.  You sleep well knowing that anything that used to be hot is now  under 2 inches of water. You can spread the wet fuel out later to dry, and it can be used again. 

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Depends upon what it is made out of. Machinist's bench vise's are usually made primarily of cast iron. They are not made to take any heavy hammering like a blacksmith leg vise made from wrought iron is. Still a very useful vise for twisting and light hammer work though. In our shop we have one machinist bench vise and three blacksmith leg vises. A couple of pictures will help with answers from other folks.

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