CTBlades Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 It was a pretty productive day today. Besides everything else going on around here. I was able to get a good chunk of the fabricating on the new gasser forge. Got the Stainless tube body ground smooth. The legs cut, bent and welded up. The feet cut, drilled and welded on. Cut the block mount brackets, 4 block mounts (angle iron) and connecting bars and mocked up. Tomorrow I'll finish the body fabrication, cut in and mount the port tubes for the two T #/4 burners and get them mounted and get it into paint. Then its off to the hardware store to pick up all the pieces parts for the two T burners and get them built, hopefully by days end. Monday I plan to go pick up the 2" Kaowool, ridgidizer and enough Kastolite 30 LI to achieve about 1/2" thick wall. In between drying times I will go ahead and fabricate the stand and if all goes well by Friday it should be ready to get busy. I am very happy with how its coming along and for those who might ask, no I am not a welder lol....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Usually just resting the bricks on the lower angle iron is more than enough, the flame will warp the upper piece. Looking good, I'll be waiting to see her running. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 2 minutes ago, Frosty said: Usually just resting the bricks on the lower angle iron is more than enough, the flame will warp the upper piece. Looking good, I'll be waiting to see her running. Frosty The Lucky. Thanks Frosty. I did think about the warping issue. I will be making the upper support removable so as to prolong its usable life and so that when it does warp it can be replaced in minutes. For me it's about safety. The upper bracket will hold the bricks so they can't fall over should something happen to hit the stand by accident such as one of my pitbulls while chasing the other one through the shop because I left the door open lol. Do you have a recommendation for whole and sleeve sizes for the 3/4" T burner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Safety first, no argument there. No I just stand my burners on top of my shop forge. I cut "washers" out of 14 gauge sheet that just slip over and get welded to the thread protector ends of my burners. They are the stand and the copper fuel line is the bracing. They just fire down through holes in the refractory lid. The few time I've mounted one to a pipe forge I hose clamped it to a piece of angle iron, eyeballed the orientation and welded the angle to the side of the forge. Heck I just welded the burners to the new forge. No finesse here in the last frontier. I'm afraid I don't have a recommendation for sleeve type mounts. It's been covered more than once though might take some searching and reading in the gas forge section, maybe burner sub section. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 9 minutes ago, Frosty said: 15 minutes ago, Frosty said: Heck I just welded the burners to the new forge. No finesse here in the last frontier. Frosty The Lucky. Ok great thank you, I thought about welding it but that might not be the best route! I'll read some more and sleep on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 The burners in my new forge are the NA ribbon burners not the old style Ts. Welding them to the forge shell was almost necessary unless I wanted to build frames and make the lid a lot more complicated. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 19 hours ago, Frosty said: The burners in my new forge are the NA ribbon burners not the old style Ts. Wait, I'm building T burners from your design and you don't use them? What's up with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 "On the new forge" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Nope, they're old hat. I'm changing over to NARBs. Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burners I should probably call them Naturally Aspirated Multi Port Burners but I like the sound of NARB better than NAMPB. Opinions change though. The induction device is still the T style Jet Ejector I just have the thread protector welded to a plenum with 19 crayon diameter holes in a rectangular pattern about 6" long. The way that worked out as the best performer has the T inducers laying flat on the forge shell rather than standing up vertically. This makes changes to fuel plumbing I'm still exploring. They're also significantly more hassle to make. All the work of a T burner with the added joy of making a steel plenum chamber with a KastOLite burner block that has 19 holes cast in it and all cast onto the plenum. It's not terribly hard but it is a hassle even with the tools and experience. As it stands now the copper tubing and manifold are a real kludge and far from ready for prime time. If I can get one of the guys at the meeting who shot pics of them running in the new forge to email some to me I'll post a couple here. Unfortunately they're on FB and there they stay. <sigh> Once I get things cleaned up I'll post the results and pics. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 13 hours ago, Frosty said: Nope, they're old hat. And you let me build the T burners when you have developed something newer and greater....hmmm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 The T burner works just fine. Frosty has been tinkering with something new and improved, but that doesn't mean the previous burner is substandard or inefficient. The "standard" T burner is far easier to build and obtain parts for than his new obsession. I'm sure once he feels he has the bugs worked out and is comfortable passing along the particulars he will do so. In the meantime you will not go wrong by building a T burner to the specs in the instructions given here. I haven't seen a simpler and/or less expensive burner design yet that functions as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyForge Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Nothing wrong with the plain old T. Easy t make easy-ish to tune. I look forward to the next iteration of the design though for what you want the current T will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Are you guys TRYING to make me blush! Naturally aspirated multi port burners have been around for a couple centuries now, ever look under the cover of a gas range? It's a multi port ring burner been around a long LONG time, since before gas lights. Oh heck, if I'm going to post the pics I have I should start a new thread. I'll call it NARB LIVES! this'll continue there. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 2 hours ago, Buzzkill said: The T burner works just fine. Frosty has been tinkering with something new and improved, but that doesn't mean the previous burner is substandard or inefficient. The "standard" T burner is far easier to build and obtain parts for than his new obsession. I'm sure once he feels he has the bugs worked out and is comfortable passing along the particulars he will do so. In the meantime you will not go wrong by building a T burner to the specs in the instructions given here. I haven't seen a simpler and/or less expensive burner design yet that functions as well. 2 hours ago, MonkeyForge said: Nothing wrong with the plain old T. Easy t make easy-ish to tune. I look forward to the next iteration of the design though for what you want the current T will work. No worries fellows, I was just tickling Frosty's toes a little. I have complete complete faith in his design. In fact I already built two this afternoon, so simple, it took all of an hour to build both and can't wait to give them a go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Day two of the gasser build. Today I finished the body fabrication, completed the removable brick glides, heat painted it, built the two T burners (this were so simple to build. It took me just about an hour to build them both). Tomorrow I'll start working on the lining, mount it to its cart/stand and finish the gas line plumbing with independent shut of valves, pressure gauge and splinter to the gas source.....almost time to crank this beastly thing up. I do apologize if my posts of building my new forge is redundant on the forum as I am sure many have posted their efforts. I’m just so overjoyed as to how it’s coming along. It’s all new to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcornell Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 You probably want to turn your burners 90 degrees, so they don't start trying to suck each other's air supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natenaaron Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 1 hour ago, CTBlades said: I do apologize if my posts of building my new forge is redundant on the forum as I am sure many have posted their efforts. I’m just so overjoyed as to how it’s coming along. It’s all new to me. Don't apologize. Except for the burners being needing to be turned it looks good. How many cubic inches are you looking at when finished. I've had a headache since 3:00 am so maybe not seeing straight but do you need two burners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 1 hour ago, jcornell said: You probably want to turn your burners 90 degrees, so they don't start trying to suck each other's air supply. J thanks, once I had it completely assembled, I to starting thinking the very same thing. I'm pretty sure your correct. 4 minutes ago, natenaaron said: Don't apologize. Except for the burners being needing to be turned it looks good. How many cubic inches are you looking at when finished. I've had a headache since 3:00 am so maybe not seeing straight but do you need two burners? Yes I'll probably need to turn the burners for sure. According to my figures I will be at around 265 CI. After discussing this with Frosty and knowing a single burner would probable cut it but it is getting close to max. Being 12" long the two burner setup will allow for more even heat over a larger area and less of a hot spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorō Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Question about the T burners, the holders/sockets with the screw/bolt. Is that going through the holder and burner pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 2 hours ago, Peter Bui said: Question about the T burners, the holders/sockets with the screw/bolt. Is that going through the holder and burner pipe? Looks more like a locking/grub screw, you wouldn't want the bolt going through the burner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorō Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 14 minutes ago, RobbieG said: Looks more like a locking/grub screw, you wouldn't want the bolt going through the burner. Ohh ok, my inexperience is showing! I couldn't tell from the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 7 hours ago, Peter Bui said: Question about the T burners, the holders/sockets with the screw/bolt. Is that going through the holder and burner pipe? The screws in the flange are for holding the T burners and I drilled and tapped four in each. This will allow me to slightly adjust the angle of the burner to set the flame(s) angle entering the chamber. The thought is to have the flames fight each other forcing a different flame pattern swirl. This came about after a discussion with the master designer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorō Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 2 hours ago, CTBlades said: The screws in the flange are for holding the T burners and I drilled and tapped four in each. This will allow me to slightly adjust the angle of the burner to set the flame(s) angle entering the chamber. The thought is to have the flames fight each other forcing a different flame pattern swirl. This came about after a discussion with the master designer! Is that even possible to angle the flame from the burner? I thought it would just be straight. Ive read the PDF about the assembly of the T burners. What is the fitting that is connected on the Tee peice? I know inside the Tee peice there's a mig welder tip It looks like a flare fitting that connects to the hose and regulator?? I don't have any experience with gas fittings so I apologise for my inexperience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 1 hour ago, Peter Bui said: Is that even possible to angle the flame from the burner? I thought it would just be straight. Ive read the PDF about the assembly of the T burners. What is the fitting that is connected on the Tee peice? I know inside the Tee peice there's a mig welder tip It looks like a flare fitting that connects to the hose and regulator?? I don't have any experience with gas fittings so I apologise for my inexperience... The slight angle adjustment I was referring to is where the burner tube slides into the receiver tube that I welded on the main cylinder. With the set screws I can tilt the burner tube slightly in any direction in the receivers. At least in theory it should kick the flame a little in the direction I set the burner to. The T consists of the T and the 6" black pipe. The mig tip is drilled and tapped into the 1/8" mpt x 1/4" brass flare fitting that has been drilled and tapped into the top of the T. This will be plumbed with 1/4" copper tube from each fitting down to the two independent gas ball valves and then into a T that I put together with black pipe and brass fittings to a single tube. I am using pipe thread sealer on all the threads for all threads from the valves down. At the single pipe from the bottom of the valve T, I will put my gauge and then my connection for the hose to the regulator that is at my tank. I'll post a picture soon as I am doing that now. No worries, we are all new at something at sometimes so we ask questions and we learn....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Sounds like you guys are getting it figured out well enough I can take a nap. The adjustment is to the burner itself not the flame, think of it like aiming water our of a hose, you aim the nozzle not the water itself. Nothing wrong with asking questions Peter it takes a while to get a handle on things is all. One thing though, 3 set screws allows easier adjustment than 4 set screws and is a little more positive. Sort of like a tripod vs and quadrapod? 3 vs 4 legged table or anvil stand on rough ground the tripod is always solid where the quad rocks. Yeah, rotate the Ts so they're not competing for air. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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