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anvil hold fast issue

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I doubt coil spring can  workin my case. It will just twist in hardy hole .

Might I reforge this thick 1 inch square bar to 3/4 that might work and maybe I should think down forge up part where spring need to be.

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If your hardy hole is 1" square (or thereabouts), try using a piece of 1/2" x 1" flat bar. 

I kinda fixed it but need more fuss and fiddling , thing i doo i just used my old ne that i made from 3/4 round bar ,and tossed it away used it as woodworking, i tought its failed prototype, but i just bend it a litle bit under goose neck and it work better.


( its shaped as this as someone mentioned and drawed, thanks i better understood tool, basicly you can imagine two hands pushing from oposite side, but issue with mine hardy that its deep , so angle of bend should be steep and narow as possible and long one.

About your suggestion that too can be done but i will have to see, another thing is when loosen holdfast jump that is becaseu its short, maybe not for other hardies but its short for mine, it is good and bad, kinda dangarous if you hit it harder it loose, but its handy at small tap it let steel.

 

 

You can make 1/2" coil spring wire fit a 1" hardy hole by folding the shank in half like a hair pin. 

Frosty The Lucky.

I did that but i broke it lol because it was quenched i guess by accident.

I broke it while i hit it.

Does it have to be coil spring or mild steel can be good also, or better results are with coil?

 

In my experience mild steel can work, but if it's too thin it will bend instead of act as a spring.

~Jobtiel

Mild is fine. In fact, mild might actually be better, since you don't have to worry about accidental hardening.

Never quench a piece of spring (or other hardenable steel) unless you are actually heat treating it.

The tall sharply angled RR spike hold fast with the wide foot I posted is mild steel and it works a treat. If you use coil spring normalize it before using it. It is that tall so it would distort in the Pritchel hole enough to hold, the distance between the Pritchel and Hardy holes on my anvil is only a little over 1" so a more common hold fast just won't flex enough to hold. 

Frosty The Lucky.

This was experiment with coil spring lol  this was first holdfast i amde and banged with hammer to lock unlock it.

Second is mild steel 3/4 third is one inch that is too bigg

IMG_20230131_155822.jpg

7 hours ago, JHCC said:

Mild is fine. In fact, mild might actually be better, since you don't have to worry about accidental hardening.

Never quench a piece of spring (or other hardenable steel) unless you are actually heat treating it.

What do you mean, dont quench it to cool it down?

Since quenching is heat treating it (hardening)

 

Yes, you should only quench a piece of hardenable steel if you actually want to harden it. Otherwise, let it cool in the air.

Nat, I think what is meant that a hold fast needs to be springy.  So, if you quench and harden it you would need to temper it to maximize the springiness and minimize the brittleness.

GNM

We have misunderstanding here , thirst can be quenched to, is it same to quench and harden?

I think quenching is just to cooldown steel, not to do anything with hardening (heat treat)

it’s less about the shaft cocking in the hole as it about the bent neck flexing and causing the shaft to wedge between the hole and the foot holding down the work.  A 90deg crook needs a curve in the arm to provide this wile a 45-60 degree crook (this is not a tire bend but a generous bend) simply needs the foot to angle slightly toe down so the crook has to spring open (or the curve) to lay the foot down flat on the work. 

I saw that with experimenting in shop, mine one inch was tight fit in hardy hole.

I made three od them I have some stock to forge other from that 1 inch square one bar , I will see maybe to stick weld or unwrap more call.

Right now Iam out off fuel and quite sick like flue or cold, and I need some time from shop , it became like opsession.

 

Have so much tools to make but so less time for it.

 

Because of the long body.. You need to make the hold fast tight to the hole. 

it needs to be about 7/8" IIRC.. At least that is the size on my 460lbs Refflinghaus.  there is a slight taper to the hole..   Make it with a heavier boss on top with a thin arm. 

The weight is used instead of the canting angle. 

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