Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 (edited) Hello any info on this anvil will be much apreciated thanks Edited June 15, 2016 by Tyson Simmons Forgot picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Approx 1939-1940 it should have a weld at the waist joining the upper and lower halves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Standard London Pattern Anvil. looks to be in excellent shape; was made in columbus OH and the 200 is the weight in pounds. Serial number dates to 1939-1940 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 21 minutes ago, Frozenforge said: Approx 1939-1940 it should have a weld at the waist joining the upper and lower halves. 28 minutes ago, Tyson Simmons said: Hello any info on this anvil will be much apreciated thanks What's the going price on a anvil in this condition thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 No telling, on what side of the planet do you dwell? Is your only interest in Iforge appraising blacksmith tools to flip? I'm thinking we should maybe come up with a service fee schedule for folk who only subscribe to ask us to assess the value of thing. Oh wait am I sounding like a curmudgeon . . . again? Ask me if I'm bummed. Go ahead, Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 No I'm new to black smithing and I wanna know if I got a good deal or not???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJRailRoadTrack Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 1 minute ago, Tyson Simmons said: No I'm new to black smithing and I wanna know if I got a good deal or not???? What Frosty meant to say (maybe) is that anvil, forge, blower, and tool prices differ as to where in the US or the world you live. I can snatch an anvil here for 3-4 dollars a pound at about the max price, In Cal it's more common to see 6-10 dollar a pound, again can be different in Texas or New York. As for the price, I would pay 3-5USD HERE. That price may be different as to where you live. By the way, Welcome to IFI, If you put your general location in the header you may be surprised how many IFI member live within visiting distance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Ah, my curmudgeon came out unnecessarily . . . again. We get a lot of flippers who's only interest is in the price of tools rather than the value, sorry for clumping you in the wrong category. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gag live within visiting distance. If you get together with the local guys you'll learn more in an afternoon than in weeks figuring it out yourself. Tool value depends on location, some places an anvil that nice might bring in $2.00 / lb or less, in other places say the Mat Su Valley in Alaska where I live it could easily bring in more than $5.00/lb and be sold before the ink was dry on an eBAy add. It looks to be in very good condition, have you done a "rebound test" on it? You basically drop a ball bearing from a set distance and eyeball how far it bounces back as a %. some guys use a tape or scale and drop from a 10" mark. With practice you can use a light hammer but it takes practice. You want to test over the entire face say every sq. in. looking for dead spots indicating a face that's weld is failing. "delaminating" A delaminating face is a B-A-D thing, turns a tool into a tool holder. So, what did you have to give for it? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 I Think they were using monolithic tops at that point; but testing for loss of hardness due to a structure fire is not a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 That Is a Trenton isn't it? Aren't they high carbon steel on Wrought iron? Even after they went to 2 piece construction? Am I thinking "monolithic top" means something it doesn't? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Basically anything 600 or below would be a good deal, 600 to 1000 would cover the average to high average. Above 1000 would be collector pricing or someone who wants it bad! That should have a one piece upper half and there shouldn't be any face welds to delaminate. Does it ring when tapped with a hammer? A clear ring on a Trenton anvil usually is a good indicator of structural integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 I just did a rebound test on it had a lot of rebound still but it don't ring to much maybe because it is on the base I have no clue that's guys yeah it's a Trenton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 And their ads used to mention that they ring like bells; should also have a caplet depression in the base. If it's fastened down to the base or the base includes some soft layer it can kill the ring. I think you got a great anvil at a good price now go use it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Hm I'm kind of worried now... What is a caplet depression ?its on a steel base Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 What's the best way to bring this anvil back to life angle grinder and wire wheel like on YouTube?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 dont grind it, lightly wire brush it by hand and then use it, use is the best thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 The caplet depression is under the anvil on the bottom. Just part of the making of it. If it is held tight on a metal base a lot of the ring will be out. Does not hurt anything for performance just saves the ears. Most of my anvils are on metal bases and have little ring. They have great rebound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Thanks for posting your anvil pictures! Yours is the second to last style of logo stamp used for U.S. manufacturing. This is what I refer to as the 'transitional style N' logo. The logo before your style had a rather normal looking middle N character. The logo after your style is where the legs of the stylized middle N are rather close together, almost looking like an X (but it is not an X), and some people mistakenly call it a "Trexton" anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Simmons Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Ok I've learned a lot thanks guys I really appreciate it! I'll keep you guys up dated on my work thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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