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Opinions on changing anvils weight vs face condition


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Hello

Figured I would ask the masses opinion on this. I have had my anvil for about 2 years and about a year ago cleaned it up I ground the face down a bit to remove the dish in the center and cleaned up and dressed the edges. I am quite happy with it, it weighs about 100/110 lbs and is mounted very solid to a good base. Performs quite well for its size. So here's the question, I am getting to the point where I would like a heavier anvil but don't particularly want to pay for it Canadian dollar sucks right now and would be quite expensive. I have another anvil available to me but I would have to trade for it, problem is the front most used edge is quite damaged and would have to be repaired by welding. The advantages are that the face is about an inch wider and the anvil is about 50 lb heavier. The rest of the anvil is in average condition for an ol anvil it is just the one edge that is in quite poor condition. So what is your opinion on what is better an anvil with a properly dressed face that has never been welded on but is smaller and lighter or one that is heavier and has a bigger face but has had weld repairs done to it. I would be repairing it to Rob Gunters procedure and I have never repaired an anvil before but I am a professional pipefitter and work with weld procedures often and have acess to the proper equipment and people to do a proper repair. 

Your opinions / criticisms would be greatly apreciated

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My first recommendation is learn the craft before you start "repairing" the tools. A slight dish is a HIGHLY DESIRABLE feature as is the steel and decades of useful life you ground off the face.

If you get the other anvil don't use the section you feel is too damaged. Especially don't go welding on it even if you're an experienced professional welder you're putting the anvil at risk welding on it. Yeah, the Gunter method is probably the least risky but you can NOT eliminate the potential damage you'll do it for cosmetics reasons. Unless you just can not avoid a damaged area then "repairing" it is for looks.

If you want a decoration buy an ASO, shine it up and mount it where it looks good. If you want a tool learn to use it before you start modifying or improving it.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Are you referring to the dish being work hardened.My thought in grinding the dish out was so I could straighten work along the length of the anvil which right or wrong seems to work good for me. And what do you mean by learn the craft before you start repairing the tools the craft of blacksmithing or (the craft of anvil repair). As far as the damaged anvil the damage is down one whole side of the supported edge it would leave no room  to create a dressed edge over the meaty section of the anvil on the close edge. As far as ruining an anvil my thoughts were that the damaged one is gonna sit in a shed mays well attempt to fix it and use it rather than let it sit in a shed. 

I do respect your warning about a weld repair ruining an anvil do you think it is that risky?

This is my current anvil I don't have a pic of the other one

image.jpg

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What is the larger anvil going to do for you?  How is it going to make you better?  What projects will it allow you to do that you can't do on your current anvil?

A lot of the time, we want to get a bigger anvil just to get a bigger anvil.  It's an addiction.

Going up another 50 pounds isn't bad, but it's not a real giant leap either.   My 300# anvil has a 5.25" wide face and there are a lot of times I wish the face was narrower.  Wide isn't necessarily better. 

If you have the tools and know-how to successfully pull off a Gunther repair, more power to you.  I'm always happy to see a damaged anvil brought back to life.

Nothing wrong with trading for an anvil, though I'd be hesitant to get rid of your existing anvil.  If you can get the new one and keep the old one, that'd be the best route.

 

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What is it that your current 100/110 pound anvil can not do?

If the side is damaged and unusable, then turn the anvil 180 degrees and use the good side. Two anvils are always a plus so consider purchasing the heavier anvil as you will most likely kick yourself for letting the 110 pound anvil go.

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A dish facilitates straightening work by allowing it to be over bent so it will rebound to true. Another even better way to straighten is on the side just under the face plate. This lets you sight down the work so you know exactly where to strike. You ARE using a wooden mallet to true your work yes? Truing up on a flat face involves knowing exactly how high to hold the work off the anvil face to correct for rebound. This is a MUCH higher level of skill and experience. I use a wooden mallet (yard sale wooden baseball bat turned into a mallet) on a birch block. This allows bending manipulation without altering forged features.

If one whole side is blown out it may be just what it needs. It's not my anvil nor can I lay my eyes, hands, a little hammer and or ball bearing on it so I can't realistically asses it's need or chances of surviving the experience.

And yes, striking an arc on a piece of hardened high carbon steel WILL alter it's heat treatment. The Gunter method is the one I've used on those occasions it was a choice between the owner just doing it or me doing it as right as possible. The preheat and post heat BELOW actual tempering heats minimizes thermal shock along the margins of the Heat Affect Zone, HAZ.

Can you post some pics of the damaged anvil?

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I was leaning towards keeping mine I am fairly happy with it my main reason for wanting a bigger anvil was weight as I currently do not have a power hammer I figured the extra 50 lb would move metal a bit more efficiently. I would love to have both but don't think that will happen. As far as just turning it around I use the close dressed edge quite a lot also so I would be loosing that ability, would rather have both edges dressed. (Frosty) did not think of the dish that way point taken, and yes I often straighten my work with a rawhide mallet not wood but close. And yes I know it will affect the heat treat but I though the extra weight may offset the slight loss in rebound. But all things considered i will probably use my current one and save up for a 200 lb er and keep my 100 also. It's just a shame that the other on is just gonna sit in a shed. If I could have both I could just really round over the edge of the bigger one and use it for drawing out stock oh well more insentive to build a power hammer.

sorry don't have pics of the other anvil its buried in a shed at my grandmothers house.  

Thanks for the advise

 

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15 minutes ago, Jonah k said:

But all things considered i will probably use my current one and save up for a 200 lb er and keep my 100 also. 

I think that is the best plan.  A 50 lb step is a "baby step" not really worth all the trouble you  were going to have fixing the "new" one to be anywhere near as good as what you have.  My 213 PW is perfect for me and has a known history as coming to a shop in my rural VT town brand new early 1900s I bought it at auction 40 yrs ago out of the original shop.  Would love to have a 400-500 lb. anvil don't need but would like not likely to happen these days with the prices. 

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That's the other aspect of this. The 150 lb anvil was my grandfathers from his farm and my father used it growing up. Also my great uncle was the town blacksmith on Morinville Alberta where my grandmother lives and that anvil could have come from his shop, don't know about that but it's definitly older than my grandfather. I will most likely end up with it some day hopefully not soon. I as far as i know am the only one that blacksmiths. The anvil I use now is old but doesn't have the same history to me anyway it was bought used by my father somewhere.

that all said I'm in no hurry to get it for any of those reasons just thought I would mention it.

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you could get the large anvil see how it works, and if you don't like it you could try and "repair" it. if you don't like it at all, you could always sell it to someone else, anvils now a days are mostly outragesly priced and people still buy them.

                                                                                                      Littleblacksmith

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Well, since we're talking about something that has family history, that changes the equation somewhat.

The Gunter method of anvil repair is highly regarded and I haven't heard anyone say the repaired areas perform less-well than the OEM area.  Since this anvil is part of your genealogy, it's absolutely worth grabbing and fixing and using.  Worst case scenario, the repaired area is a hair softer.  Big whoop -- all that does is give you a handy excuse.  "Yea, everything was going great until I forged on the soft spot."  You can blame all sorts of faux pas on that repaired area! ;) 

Your little anvil can sit on the floor and be used to upset long bars.  I have a 120# Wilkinson anvil doing floor duty right now, and it's a dream.  

As you say, there's no rush.  Just make sure you're in line for that anvil and some other relative doesn't abscond with it to make a lawn ornament.

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It's not as much the money my uncle lives on the farm too and he doesn't blacksmith but he has problems letting go of stuff. It's more of a family thing than a not being able to afford it thing. If I could find a bigger anvil in the 200 lb range in good condition I would probably buy it, I keep a pretty close eye on the buy and sell. It's just the 2000/3000 dollar price tag on a new one I can't swallow right now. Keep in mind I live in Canada our dollar sucks right now and most anvils come from the states and shipping is torture also. Plus the anvil I have right now doesn't suck can't remember who said it but everyone wants a bigger anvil but do you need one. I have kind of an uncontrollable tool obsession that is most of the problem.

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