John Martin Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 How would I go about make a chest to store things in, just the basics. Latch, hinges, opens on the top, wood with metal plates for re-enforcement, you know the type. It doesn't have to be big. Please provide me with information on how to go about this task. If it is to complex for me, I will wait until I have gained the experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paragon Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 I think in the BP here or anvilfire there are instructions how to make hinges.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archie Zietman Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 I Forge Iron - Blacksmithing and Metalworking*- BP0268 Unconventional Hinges for a Small Box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 and a search on the big bad interweb with the word Tansu might give you all sorts of other decorative ideas a few other termsJapanese Tansuhttp://www.shogunsgallery.com/images/6J086.3.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Stegmeier Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Here is an awesome website with links to actual pics from museums in Europe of extent pieces, there are also plans on how to build medieval furnitureFurniture Here is the link to my BP here on medieval splitwork hinges;-)I Forge Iron - Blacksmithing and Metalworking*-*I BP0218 Split work Hinges Most complex things are just a bunch of simple things all rolled together, remember that one simple thing after another done well will hopefully give you good results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 I think it won't be that hard, but here is something that i know can't be easy, how do you put a lock inside of a chest like in the pictures and what not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 unless you are a locksmith, you buy a lock box, strike plate, replace the dress plate with one you make, router or chisel out room for the lock and bolt then put it together, basically the same thing as with a door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Go to IForgeIron.com A search of the Blueprints yielded 21 hits A search of the Forum yielded 29 hits A search of the Gallery yielded 28 hits. 78 references, not all specifically answer your question, but they can give your ideas. There are several IForgeIron Blueprints on the subject of hinges BP0218 Split Work Hinges BP0152 Hinge Eye Bender BP0224 Hinge Barrel Eyes BP0225 Unconventional Hinges BP0268 Unconventional Hinges for a Small Box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 Okay, I will go out looking for stock and more information sometime this week, you have all been very, very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 M may I call you M? Gorilla Glue it is to the wood workers that mig welders are to the blacksmith. Cut wood to size, put GG on the seams, clamp per directions. You then add in reinforcment as the glue can come apart during heavy use. Sure helped me assembling a hope chest when I realized my joinery skills aren't what I thought they were. That will relieve you from needing to learn wood as you learn metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 I'm a woodworker and never use gorilla glue any more. It is fantastic for attaching dissimilar materials to each other. BUT, in a recent test in a major woodworking magazine it was shown to be poor for wood. Tite bond II or III are the way to go. Excellent glues. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 Okay, well I'll start on my plans and then see if i can get the wood, and then go looking for some metal to re-enforce it. I will use two or three latchs with locks that you just slip onto it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Check out the BP on the Viking padlock. You can make your own lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 If ya can wait till this next weekend, I can snap a couple shots of the tool chest I take to demos. Imagine an old-fashioned coffin (not the dracula kind, but just the plain pine box kind). It's kinda like that but not as long. Two handles, a couple of steel spoked/steel rimmed wheels off of something (probably antiques themselves). On the inside I ran furling strips along the top on the long sides. The strips are notched to accept rebar "racks" to hang hammers, tongs and what have you from. Hm... picture would speak a thousand words.... -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 I'd like to see it, will wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Here is a chest I put the ironwork on a few years ago. It is cedar and was built by someone else, then he brought it to me and I put the iron on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 Wow, excellent woodwork, and excellent job fitting the iron work on. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 stretch, That's really nice. I like cedar, and I like iron. They go good together. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Hey M, I posted up some pics in my members gallery of my tool chest on wheels. the_sandy_creek_forge Gallery - Blacksmith Picture Gallery Nothing fancy, but it works. Don't mind the surface rust on some of the hardware, I need to pull it all off and give it a refinishing. Also, as I found out after the fact, those steel type wheels are actually NOT that cheep to buy new, and the price for antique ones on ebay are somewhat ridiculous (go figure! ). A couple of wheelbarrow wheels would probably work just as well, if not better. One other tip would be to put the hammer section over the WHEELS and NOT back by the handles. Keep the heaviest stuff up over the pivot point (in this case the wheels). One of these days I'll fix that. The nicest thing with this box is I can load up all my hand tools for a weekend demo, and roll it right up the ramps into the back of my truck (with a little help of course). As far as building this chest, it could have fairly easily been done all with hand tools. Would of been a lot more work, but it could of been done. I believe all I really used was a circular saw, drill, and maybe the miter saw for cutting the 2x4's and the 2x2's. My advice is build the bottom first, then work up from there. I prefer to use at least Quality grade lumber (as opposed to standard) as the edges are a little closer to straight for the most part. I could have gone with Select grade, but it probably would have cost me twice as much to build. AND just a little random fact (well...something I was once told anyways, it might just be complete BS). When people were traveling in the past, it was usually only the wealthy that could afford the rounded top steamer trunks/chest. Why? Because a rounded top chest would not be able to have another trunk/chest stacked on top of it. Less chance of damage to the articles inside from being at the bottom of a stack. -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 my tool chest on wheels I really like those wheels but I don't see where you store the beer :p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Don't move the hammers, move the wheels. Swap the hard wear end for end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Lots easier to unscrew and swap the firring strips that support the rebar rack than it is to re-drill and re-brace for the legs, wheels and handles. The beer goes in the ICE chest... not the TOOL chest... -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrforge Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 dampen both edges that receive the Gorilla glue. I am a firm believer in screwing and gluing for my woodworking projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Those old steel wheelbarrow weels can get pricy. i used to have to pay US$5 a piece at the fleamarkets for them! I used them for tong racks and for potracks for my camping gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Hey M, I posted up some pics in my members gallery of my tool chest on wheels. the_sandy_creek_forge Gallery - Blacksmith Picture Gallery Nothing fancy, but it works. One other tip would be to put the hammer section over the WHEELS and NOT back by the handles. Keep the heaviest stuff up over the pivot point (in this case the wheels). One of these days I'll fix that. The nicest thing with this box is I can load up all my hand tools for a weekend demo, and roll it right up the ramps into the back of my truck (with a little help of course). -Aaron @ the SCF Nice chest Aaron. A couple more thoughts come to mind. Making wheels like those aren't too difficult and are excellent learning projects. If they're not quite perfectly round or centered the wobble won't be too bad. Unless a person were to run really REALLY fast with the trunk of course. See option three. The wheels and handles can be mounted on receivers like a trailer hitch. This will do a couple things for you: First it makes it easier to stand the chest on end for a handy table with a front loading door. Secondly it lets you use the same wheels and handles on other things like chests, tables, forges, anvil stands, etc. And lastly (though I'm sure there are lots of other good ideas) it makes it much harder for the unscrupulous, sticky fingered types to run off with it. Not having wheels and handles attached that is. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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