I'm needing a couple of top fullering tools, thinking of forging out a couple of harbor freight 3-4 pound shop hammers to save time.  I could forge from 1045 round bar, but am thinking of the time savings.  Is this a crazy idea, or false economy?  Thing is I can get them for 9.99, then add a 25% off coupon, so 7.25 before tax.  Of course I'd have to cut the handle off, but I save them for future projects, not that I need too, got plenty of hickory around here.

I think that would work...

if you have the ability, forge a drift. the forging of the ends of the hammers will likely result in slight deformation of the eye in the tool. therefore you may need to slightly drift the eye.

Ethan

Got a drift, no issues.  No issues forging a hammer or a top tool, except for time.  I'm just slow, and wondering if it'd be worth it time wise to start with something already mostly there.

Look around yard, garage, etc. sales for hammers to forge into top tools. Old ball peins, especially ones with broken handles are darned reasonably priced, even here in the far frozen north I usually pick them up for under a buck.

This one hired on with me as a 24oz +/- ball pein. The handle is from a plank of clear straight grain 5/4" hickory I buy from a local hardwood specialty guy. I'll explain why my handles are like this if you'd like.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Nice hammer, OK, I'll bite, why are your handles shaped like that?

Yea now I'm curious as well

 

make that 3.

Good Morning,

When you try a handle like that, you won't go back!! I make mine from old Pallets, same thing.

Neil

Several years ago I acquired  a bucket of ballpein hammer heads on e-bay.  The cost was like one dollar a head.   People post the darndest stuff there.   Old hammers can be forged into a lot of useful tools.   Still have a couple kicking around

Ok I want to know about the handles as well? I also would like to know what process you used to harden/temper that hammer after reforging it. I'd also like to know the process to harden/temper a reforged hammer to be used as a struck tool? I like the look of that handle. I have some hickory drying in the shop for future handles. I recently made up some handles out of laminated oak I brought home from work. So far they are holding up much better than I expected.

Well, O-K-A-Y.

A slab handle has a couple advantages though the most important to me is it indexes in your hand automatically. Just a little practice and the hammer will always be level in the left right axis. It's much easier to hold in a light grip and save you're appendages fatigue and damage.

I hold mine in what I call a modified fencer's grip, I allow the hammer to pivot between the second knuckle of my index finger and my thumb. Just at the moment of impact I close my grip snapping the hammer sharply then relax my grip. This adds another hinge point to my swing each hinge point is a force multiplier making a blow significantly more powerful for the same amount of effort on my part.

Relaxing my grip at the moment of impact allows the hammer to recoil without resistance. Sure it doesn't bounce and help lift my arm but my joints do NOT absorb the impact at all.

Those are the reasons I prefer a slab handle and the why. The one on the straight pein in the picture is tapered from the head to the end largely to make it less fatiguing and more secure. The taper is pretty unnoticeable when in use. . . UNTIL you get tired, distracted or. . . and loosen my grip during a swing. Faster than you can react if the handle slips your grip tightens. Pure reflex and I've never thrown a tapered slab handled hammer. Can't say that about my regular hammers though and as soon as an old handle breaks or just annoys me it's getting replaced  The knob on the end was a bit of overkill on the first one I was thinking if it slipped the knob would be a good stop but one of these has never slipped enough to tell. The knob has become a trademark sort of thing and it's part of the pattern I'm too lazy to remove.

One last bit that doesn't show is how the shaft is shaped. Sure breaking the corners in intuitive, don't have to tel you that. However doing demos is theater and one little thing I've done for years is spin the hammer on the back swing to change face to pein or back. It's always been a little razzle dazzle showmanship to impress the audience and a good laugh when I got it wrong. I had a brainstorm when I handled my first one and rounded the edge facing the pein so I don't have to look to know which way it's facing. Now when a spin ends with the wrong side facing the work I say, "Oops got it backwards!" and reverse it without looking. Just a bit of a showmanship gimmick, you betcha.

Frosty The Lucky.

Is that "Oliver Tractor Green" paint on the vise ? 

 

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After the reshaping of the head, would you harden and temper the fuller end?

frosty, what is the swell at end of the handle for? is it to keep your hammer from flying out of your hand, or simply decoration?

Frosty

If someone steals your hammer it should stick out like a sore thumb for all to  see and now we all will recognize it as being yours.

Steveo99, I plan to re-harden and temper, thought the striker end will be left soft.  Don't know how much good it'll do, but will see.  Rite now I've got no time to work at the forge.