Have you patented it yet?

Alan

Ha Ha , Alan......Don't ya think it should be working first ? Then I'd have to figure out how to divide all that royalty money with you guys...... To much trouble.....                            Dave

 Well, time for an update......no, I don't have any pics yet. But I think I've got the mechanics figured out the best I can. When I step down on the peddle (not permanent yet). It travels about 20" from the top of stroke to bottom. This will close the jaws 2". Which in my old brain figures 10 to 1 ratio. Sooo ,disregarding friction, If I put 200lbs. on the foot peddle I should get 2000lbs closing force on the jaws. Does that make sense? I do not have it mounted  yet but just clamped in one of the other vices. The only 2 test I have done are.....putting my finger in the jaw test (ouch) and clapping a RR spike and trying to twist with a 12" crescent wrench. (couldn't twist it around).

I'm waiting to find a suitable plate to mount this on. And, I think I will make it the same height as my anvil as that might be handy at some point. I'm thinking holdfast here. Maybe use one of Charles's fancy RR rail on end anvils for a post to mount it.

Any thoughts, additions, or corrections ? And yes I know......without pics it didn't happen......I'll fix that tomorrow I hope      Dave    

 I'm going to try to add a short vid to this post to give an idea where I'm at on this. I have some more pics if needed. As stated before I'm not finished yet, so if anyone has any good suggestions, I can still change a few things.  Thanks             Dave

PA180005.AVI

Edited October 19, 201510 yr by Dave51B
First vid wouldn't load

Looks fantastic, Dave!  That will definitely come in handy around the shop!

 Just an update....I think I have all the pieces now, I'll get it tacked up soon I hope........           Dave 

I'm 98% done. I just need to use it for a while to figure out how much of the screw out the back to cut out of the way. Also what to add for a foot pedal. I have some checker plate but I may go with an oak board. It might be easier on the shins.....  Any questions or comments ? I have a couple of questions I'll post later.                 Thanks                     Dave 

Beautiful execution, Dave.  

Do you think you'll cut the pedal's arm length down, or is the added leverage really needed to get a good grip?  What's the reasoning behind the stand's design?  Is the rail section as tall as it is to help with some operation, or just because that's how long the rail was?   I'll certainly be very keen to read your long-term report after a few months of working with it.

Hey Vaughn, I would not say "beautiful" maybe functional ......My intent was to build a multipurpose unit. The rail and vice are both set to my anvil height. The pedal is just the length of the iron I had on hand. Final length to yet be determined. Same with the length of the screw and screw lever.

 Right now if I put my 180lbs. on the pedal I can hold my 1/2 " torque wrench stable up to 50 ft.lbs. of torque in the position shown. When moved to the outer hole in the screw lever, I can hold it to 85 ft.lbs. This should be more than enough to hold any item for hot twisting or bending I my need.....I think.

 As stated before I reserve the right to change anything at any time.  I have to put it to work to determine how it will end up. Also I figure I have about $35 in this build, It may work great or may be scrap ..........  To be determined......          Dave                

How far out along the pedal was your foot when you did the torque test?

If you bent the excess pedal metal into a curve to form two "P"s The left hand one reversed…it would give you foot access to the pedal from various positions to the side. Depending on the project in the vice and where you need to stand to carry it out...

Alternatively, leave the pedal lever long and put a large weight or spring on the end to hold it down and add a lever to lift it up. That way, you lift it up, put in your work piece and let it down, trapping the piece and leaving you hands free. A hook attached to a floor ring might be another way of enabling you to be hands free….sorry I really mean "foot-free" but you know what I mean.

Alan

 Alan, I was basically standing past the cross bolt at the end. Not full body weight, had to keep balance with left foot, to pull torque wrench. Just from messing with it, I think a round pedal will work OK. It feels like I'll want to use it mostly from the left side, giving me access  to the rail anvil and the flat plate better. Plus use my right foot for pressure. I still may add a notch system to the far side (right) to be able to just push the foot pedal away to lock it.

 I have got to get this set up to my little gas forge or something. Time to put it to work. That's the only way I know of to test it.

 So, anyone care to calculate how much jaw pressure it takes to hold a 1/2" torque wrench @ 50lbs. ?           Dave   

How hard is it to adjust the screw to change your jaw opening?

TH82, Actually the  adjustment is easy. Hardest part is to remember this is a left hand thread I'm using. I do have to raise the foot pedal to release the static pressure on the screw. I may end up adding some kind of grip surface on the screw box just for kicks.

 I did get a chance to work with it a bit, and so far so good. I was just playing with some small stock. A smith buddy of mine, checked it out yesterday when we met up to go to another guys shop to sharpen some plough shares, and now he wants to build one. Maybe Alan was on to something.........(still not sure how to divide up all that royalty money)               Dave  

7 hours ago, Dave51B said:

snip... Maybe Alan was on to something.........(still not sure how to divide up all that royalty money)               Dave  

Well I would just stick to the traditional system of multiplying the percentage of useful comments by the distance in miles they travelled,  factoring in a doubler for ideas from over northern hemisphere oceans…you know, how it is done normally…

I dare say others would say it should be based on incremental increase depending on alphabetical positioning from A to V. But they would, wouldn't they?

Alan

1 hour ago, Alan Evans said:

Well I would just stick to the traditional system of multiplying the percentage of useful comments by the distance in miles they travelled,  factoring in a doubler for ideas from over northern hemisphere oceans…you know, how it is done normally…

I dare say others would say it should be based on incremental increase depending on alphabetical positioning from A to V. But they would, wouldn't they?

Alan

 Now we have to figure the exchange rate, Should it be in Eros, Pounds, Quid? Then, I'll have to get VaughTs share figured. And everybody else........Way to complicated.......                           Dave

If you add a handle on the washer/ferrel, that looks like you could make the opening adjustable if you wanted to.  However, with a foot operated vise, I doubt if that would be necessary, since your foot is what is opening and closing the vise.

1 hour ago, Dave51B said:

 I'll have to get VaughTs share figured.

I'll make it really easy on you, friend.

Since I posted the photos in the original post, and I've been here the whole way to gently guide you with my erudite advice.... I think a 70/30 split is more than fair.  Now, how you decide to split the 30% betwixt all the other hangers on is entirely up to you. I would watch out for those foreign blokes, though; they talk funny and shouldn't be trusted.

7 hours ago, VaughnT said:

I'll make it really easy on you, friend.

Since I posted the photos in the original post, and I've been here the whole way to gently guide you with my erudite advice.... I think a 70/30 split is more than fair.  Now, how you decide to split the 30% betwixt all the other hangers on is entirely up to you. I would watch out for those foreign blokes, though; they talk funny and shouldn't be trusted.

Talk about talking funny….I thought you spelt vice with an "s" over there?

And I agree, I definitely should not be trussed.

Alan

I spell it vice. Idk about anyone else but I know my spellin is always a little off. I think I spell some of the English words that's spelled differently between this side and that side of the world like people on the far side. I can't think of any examples now but I'm sure there's at least one. 

 I agree Alan, You should not be trussed.... My wife maybe, (she says she can't breath in one of those).....But not you for sure.......Dave 

Well, after using this vice, anvil combo for a bit. I like the way the vice is working, but I am finding the "face" on the RR rail is to small. I'm leaving way to many hammer marks, because the face of the rail is smaller than my hammer face. The "fix" I'm thinking, is to cut out the rail and weld in a sledge hammer head on end, pretty much flush with the rest of the web of the rail.

 Any thoughts, or suggestions?     Thanks                  

41 minutes ago, Dave51B said:

Well, after using this vice, anvil combo for a bit. I like the way the vice is working, but I am finding the "face" on the RR rail is to small. I'm leaving way to many hammer marks, because the face of the rail is smaller than my hammer face. The "fix" I'm thinking, is to cut out the rail and weld in a sledge hammer head on end, pretty much flush with the rest of the web of the rail.

 Any thoughts, or suggestions?     Thanks                  

Well it's rare to say but " get a smaller hammer".  Lol  I think welding on the sledge hammer head would work fine. I'd probably do about the same. 

Well you have all the back up you need with the rail going down to the ground, so if you are going to weld a sledge hamer head on, I would put it on sideways and grind it flat to give you and even larger face. It may only be face hardened but will certainly be tough enough for a hot work anvil on the side.

I would almost be inclined to weld on a bit of 2" plate of whatever size or shape you can get instead of the sledge head...mild steel will work fine and can always be re levelled with the Mig.

Alan

 Allen, I'll have to think on that a while. all my sledge heads are hex shaped with the flat side over the handle hole. Not sure I want a hole under the face of my anvil. I have ground the web of the RR rail some and want to keep the features I've added. If I weld the sledge head on, should I worry about getting it to hot? Also, I'm thinking I should get full penetration and not just tack the edges.

 Das, jeepers I'm only using A 2 lb. now....I'd have to go to a tack hammer. LOL            Thanks             Dave