I was excited for a split second. But I think its actually all on piece now. Kinda sad. Tag had $65 on but nothing moves and it just looks bad. At what point is it too late?

 

 

ATF and a thinner like turps makes an excellent penetrant and let it soak. Something else an old timer told me back when I wasn't one. If you know what caused it to stick that's the stuff that will unstick it. I was surprised when he dropped a bolt with a rusted on nut in a bucket of water over night and it freed right up next morning.

You don't want to try electrolysis on it till you can get it apart or it'll weld the pieces together. Long soak and gentle persuasion is probably the best bet. And there's no telling what she's really like till you get it apart.

Frosty The Lucky.

Edited July 31, 201510 yr by Frosty

At what point?  I stop when the screwbox and screw are trashed; however since they were often well greased they are often in the best shape one you get them loose.

Price seems a bit high; I seen ones in much better shape at Quad-State for less.

At $65 you should of bought 2.   You can always make them look better. And most time they just need alittle soaking to free them up.

Yeah I would have. I was in a hurry earlier when I said it looks bad sorry. I should have explained and said the working condition looks very bad. 

I picked it up and there is no movement at all. It's hard to even see any seams where the pieces touch each other. It's like its one solid thing.

 I may go make an offer and see what i can do. If I can get it cheap.

Thanks

Edited August 1, 201510 yr by norrin_radd

No bad condition is broken and severely bent items, missing critical parts, (mounting bracket and spring is not a critical assembly), bad torch cuts, etc.  Rust, meh; put on your face shield and respirator and unleash a wire brush on it when all the easy to get rid of stuff is gone then hit the joints/moving pieces with the best penetrating oil you can get.  When the screw lets loose I used to take a narrow container and soak the screw and screwbox for a week in something like kerosene or diesel and then use a wire bottle brush on the SB and a hand held wire brush on the screw and get rid of 80 year old grease remnants

So what do think is fair price for it? 

$65 or less start with cash you know they will take 65 as lone as you are willing to pay that any less is gravy

Seriusly, tossing it in a stock stocktank over night and you may be able to open her up and then start cleaning it up once ots apart. 

I try to tell people that it may have taken a year or more to get into that condition. Be prepared to spend the same amount of time getting it back to working order. Ok maybe not the entire years time, the point is do not rush things. Go slow, let it soak, move it just a bit and let it soak some more. You have time on your side.

Edited August 1, 201510 yr by Glenn

Like anvils, prices are all over the map. I just bought a really nice Columbian with 4.5" jaws for $40. I have paid as little as $5, and some would gladly paid $200 for the same vise. 

Pay what you can afford to pay at the time, and don't forget that your time is worth something.

Well I got it. He took 50.

Now the fun starts.

 

 

I think you did well. The spring and bracket are all there, jaw size looks decent. Looking forward to picts as you restore it.

Seriusly, tossing it in a stock stocktank over night and you may be able to open her up and then start cleaning it up once ots apart. 

Yes, Charles, water is one of the best penetrating oils available. And it's cheap!

Are y'all saying to soak it in water?

Yep, the rust will absorb water and become soft and crumbley. Then you should be able to unscrew the box and the pivot pin. Thoroly clean, dry and oil/greas afterwards. If it still needs a bit of "lube" try glycerin, it has an afinity for water and will fallow the water into the rust. Make sure to clean all the glycerin out tho, as it will atract moisture from the air.  

Really, and to think I was getting all excited about the prospect of building a sand blaster, what a buzz kill

 

Sounds simple enough, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks

Edited August 3, 201510 yr by norrin_radd

Really, and to think I was getting all excited about the prospect of building a sand blaster, what a buzz kill

 

Sounds simple enough, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks

Well, I suppose after soaking it in water a while you could take a pressure washer to it.

Frosty The Lucky.

My favorite rust remover for old chain was to drag it behind the truck down in the arroyo...

what kind of sand blaster were you hoping to build?

 

the biggest issue with Sandblasters is the air supply. to small of CFM or to small of PSI and you're fighting it all the way through, and not removing much materials if any. I bought the HF 100 lbs. pressure tank sand blaster, and the blast itself works fine, but my air supply is to small to feed it at optimum output. so I have to fight clogs and don't remove much material. If you're insisting on building one. Copy an existing design and go off of it's air requirements. If you don't have the air, you're not going to have a useful tool.

Thanks for the heads up.

To be honest I was going to try to throw together one of those ghetto deals using a plastic bottle, tubing and a blow gun with my 6 gallon compressor just to see what it would do  

I've got enough junk around to experiment with, nothing fancy and probably won't work!

Still have to get the vise in some water. I have access to a pressure washer though.

Edited August 5, 201510 yr by norrin_radd

I've got a 30 gal and don't have the CFM at a high enough PSI to run mine effectively. a 6 gal certainly won't be enough. Stick with the pressure washer.

fifty fifty mix of ATF and acetone drip it on and let it sit a couple days and she will free up.  keep puting the mix on.   had a post drill that looked like that and after a couple days things started to move freely

Edited August 6, 201510 yr by matto