ironwolfforgeca Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Well 2 more anvils re-built :) & out the door I have 3 more anvils to go on the welding table :unsure: NEXT :lol: PW #165 on the left Mouse Hole #140 on the right Steve's Welding Thanks to whoever put the 2 post together ! PS-- I let customer grind edge's as they see fit Or I will do edge's with them standing by to watch ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ironwolf did you do a pictorial on here on anvil repair? If not could you? When I search the topic I keep getting Rob Gunters way. I thought you did this once but it was a reply to another post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 matto no I don't just finish pics I do anvil repair the same way Gunter does there's not much to it as long as you can arc weld & you need Dc unit -- Lg heavy duty 9" grinder can be done with sm grinders BUT a lot more work & LOTS of time ( grinding )** the mouse hole was 10 Hrs to redo total time this is what I do 1 wire wheel hole anvil most rusty also if there casting cracks or what ever I find them now 2 I prep anvil = grind any sharp stuff down like chisel marks & the like -- then grind as needed areas to be welded 3 pre heat to 375 deg 4 weld up using wood blocks to hold at angles SO ALL welds are done flat mostly -- the trick here is buildup just enough & not to much extra to grind off OR you will be welding the low spots again = re-heat 5 post heat to temp I have alot of leather welding jackets I rap anvil in over night to cool 6 GRINDING time ** you need to run a grinder like a milling machine if you mess up on the grinding YOU get to weld it again :mellow: SUPPLY'S arc rod Stoody 1105 -- 1/8" I use or 5/32 -- grinding wheels stainless steel makes grinding time faster !!! grinding wheels I use a cone or dished wheel mostly & flat -- sanding pads for same grit coarse to fine I also have a casting stone wheel its for cleaning / smoothing new casting paint flat black & clear coat thats it --- just LOTS & lots of time ! & dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 It's hard to beat the Gunter method, it's well proven. The only thing I have to add has been touched on lightly already but it's important. You MUST hold the grinding wheel parallel to the face! It's intuitive to want the most effect so most guys will tilt them towards the edge leaving the face sloped to the edge. This can be SOOOO annoying to have to work around. And do NOT get fancy, SS rod isn't appropriate in the least. Someone who owned my 206 Trenton "repaired" it's edges with SS rod and ground them at a slope. If they preheated they over did it, she's on the soft side with little dings and dents everywhere. I'm petty sure they just prettied it up to get a better price. She's still plenty usable but if I'd known more at the time I would've passed and looked around some more. Guys, please don't "repair" an anvil unless you actually know what you're doing, not think, KNOW. Don't shortcut the steps and take your time. It's a LOT more labor intensive than you think believe me. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arceye Blue Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 5 post heat to temp I have alot of leather welding jackets I rap anvil in over night to cool I might be wrong because it was years ago, we used to bury components it warm sand if we wanted them to cool slowly ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
root Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Yes if you want something to cool slowly dry sand will do it. it will keep whatever metal softer also. works the opposite of quenching. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluicebox Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hello, I had a quick question on the Robb Gunther repair method. He claims that on a wrought iron anvil use Stoody 2110 for the base or butter rod and weld unlimited passes to build up repair. This should be done until repaired area can be finished in 3 passes using Stoody 1105 1/8" three layers deep. My question, is that all your going to get for a new thickness in the repaired area of a top plate? What I mean is, if you have to do a full repair and grind out the broken delaminated top plate all the way down to the wrought iron base that is under it. Now you use the 2110 and build up but your finished top in this area will now only be 3/8" thick of 1105. Do I have that right? Actually less than 3/8 as you have to over build it then grind down flush with the rest of the top plate. Mr. Gunther also quotes a preheat on wrought iron of 400F, at what temp do you lose temper in an existing top plate particularly on a smaller Peter Wright anvil? For some reason I thought temper was compromised at 375F. Thanks for taking the time to read this. I hope you can make sense of these questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Thats the rub, if your reparing an anvil and want a rockwell hardness of 55+ you need to plan on heat treating. At some point you have so much material to replace that it makes more sence to weld in a new peice of W1 (tho with a big chunk you can water quench O1) at some point the trouble of fully welding a section of plate makes sence from a time and material cost. Rod, especialy specialty rod gets pricey when you start talking about laying down 10's of pounds. If its less than one box don't bother, as you have to buy a box anyway, but more than two and I'm doing the weld prep for a plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I think I would be milling, or running them through a Blanchard grinder to get them flat. Sometimes it pays to have someone with the big tools help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluicebox Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Thats the rub, if your reparing an anvil and want a rockwell hardness of 55+ you need to plan on heat treating. At some point you have so much material to replace that it makes more sence to weld in a new peice of W1 (tho with a big chunk you can water quench O1) at some point the trouble of fully welding a section of plate makes sence from a time and material cost. Rod, especialy specialty rod gets pricey when you start talking about laying down 10's of pounds. If its less than one box don't bother, as you have to buy a box anyway, but more than two and I'm doing the weld prep for a plateJust curious if the new top plate would just be perimeter welded then and would it also require heat treating after it was attached? Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 That all depends on how much of a heat affected zone you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Just curious if the new top plate would just be perimeter welded then and would it also require heat treating after it was attached? Thanks for the input. Generally speaking a perimeter weld isn't good enough, and yes heat treated after welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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