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Expected rebound from a repaired anvil?

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I was just using hardface as an example. I would like to see if you could determine by rebound if the repair was done using the Robb Gunter process with the correct materials.
From reading the process it would appear as Charles said that the rebound should be fairly high in the 80% range but things dont always go as planned.
I picked up a Wilkinson for cheap (by Alaska prices) cause the face from mid hardie hole to the heel is gone and about 2" back from the table is gone. The rest is still attached and I get 80-85% rebound from it. I think if I was to attempt a repair it would only be to gain use of the hardie and pritchell holes but I dont want to do more harm than good.

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   search for Rod Gunther anvil repair its in the anvil page somewhere

I have used his way to repair over 65 anvils ++ with No problems !

also I talk to a Stoody rod tech before I saw Rod G post on anvil repair

stoody tech's said the same thing as Rod G did :)


I use 1105 stoody you have to buy 10 lb & its not cheap I --- it is a tool steel repair rod, NOT hardface & hardface will chip off

anvil its to hard ! its made for rock crusher mining eqt that kinda stuff

and you don't want you're anvil repair rod to chip off ! its @ a Bad Higth / shrapnel

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Well there are different types of hardfacing rod like abrasion resistant and impact resistant. The abrasion resistant tend to be brittle and/or to spiderweb and so not be the best choice for an anvil face. As the stuff is expensive getting the best rod is a good idea!

The anvils I have had repaired were all the Robb Gunter method... I'll let you know how well they hold up after another decade or two...

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One thing that seams to often be forgoten is that you are going to end up softning the existing plate, so plan on heat treating the anvil.

That's why I use the rod I do and the way I do. When I patch in the middle of the face I don't have to heat treat the anvil.

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I've done it from a complete face on a 170# mousehole to a couple of 2" size circles on others. I end up with a fully welded down face. This conversation has been gone over before on here. I think a plate welded on the edges would be a poor excuse for an anvil. Others think it's the way to go. To each his own.

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just rereading posts

if you have to build up a missing plate area you can use 7018 or 110-18 for a sub build up layer no problem

for cheap fix you can use 110-18 for a top cover rod I have seen anvils done this way & they do wear well for what it is


* there are other rods from other rod makers that should be close to stoody 1105 it would take some cking into to find out ??

most rod makers give out Info & rod books to anyone that calls them I have at lest 15 rod books

I do'nt know who makes something like 1105 --if you find out I would like to know about it !

GOOD LUCK you're welding will be better when you're done LOL


Steve's Welding & Fab

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I didn't say edge welded I said "fully welded", MT. Its a pain in the butt, but it certainly saves on rod. The problem is that it takes a lot of veyr expensive rod to build up a 1" plate, not so bad for 1/4-1/2", but the thick top anvils can get pricey fast, just in rod.
Yes it has been gone over, and it will again, everytime there is an anvil that needs repaired.

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I've read plenty about the whole process in the forums but I couldn' t recall seeing any thing mentioned about post repair rebound so I was curious for my own situation,
Thought it might also help future buyers when they look at an anvil that has been repaired or refaced to determine what type of rod was used during the repair.

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Idealy the repair should be as good or better than the original. Anything less is, well less. Lol. Most often you are recomended to preheat toolsteel (highcarbon) before welding, this reduces localized hardening, as well as microfractur (and macro fracture for that matter) surounding th weld zone. It also increases weld penitration as the material is already 20% of the way to melting temp. The problem ofcorse is that 500 f reduces the hardness of the original plate.

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Thanks for all the info! Now to see if I can find the Stoody rod up here.


Are you coming to the January meeting at Pat's place? If so, bring the anvil, I'll take a look and we can talk about build up and hard facing rods. You can get Stoody rods in Anchorage, no sweat but I used a different product that worked very well. (I wish I remembered what but if I go look I have to re-write and I'll get all rambly)


If you really need to replace the full depth of the face you'll need to use build up rod, most all hard face rods are only good for 2 passes max. As Thomas says you need impact resistant NOT abrasion resistant hard face OR as most welding supplies call it, "steel on stone" rod.


No matter, if you want to trek out to my place when the weather is reasonably warm we can clear space in the shop and do it hear. I think I even still have the tempil stick, a 20lb. sack of Kingsford will take care of preheat. I have the rest except the rod and the Wasilla supplier has the right rod.


Let me know.


Frosty The Lucky.

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Here are a couple pictures of the poor Wilkinson.





I picked it up pretty cheap (by AK prices) 100lb for $100.  I want to take it down to my friends cabin so we can play around and maybe even make some hardware and decorations for the place. At that price I can justify it being down there "unsupervised" being used for whatever comes along.


The existing face is nice and hard and is all well attached. It is usable now so when I repair it I want to try and not remove the temper.


The other part that concerns me is with the face missing over where the horn is attached to the body am I risking breaking the horn off under normal use. 


I am going to get the meeting down on the calender early this time. 


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