Crazy Ivan Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 After a search I didn't find much specifics about caulking an anvil to its stand (wood stand in my case). Does anybody have a line on what type/brand of silicon caulking I should use? My anvils are already secured well with removable cleats but I want to further deaden the ring. I like quiet anvils and so do my neighbors :) . Thanks. -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty220 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 A few wraps of chain around the waist will also help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 I've done that and it never seemed to make a noticeable difference. Plus it gets in my way from time to time and in my slightly OCD opinion, looks bad unless its on a 350lb+ anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty220 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 True I had them on a 400 lb anvil mounted to a large oak stump in the shop I would guess that high temp silicone such as RTV or gasket silicone would be the best for caulking it down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I have used clear GE silicone caulk found in any home improvement store. Be generous with the caulk. This is a case where more is better, and give it a day to cure. I have a HB anvil what was bedded in molten lead. The wood was carved out, the lead poured in, then the 302 lb anvil must have been lowered in with a hoist. It is also cleated down. I does make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 my anvils that are on stumps i have had very good luck quieting them down with a loose loop of chain around the middle a slice of tire inner tube under it and then i run some good long lag bolts though the links and use those to pull then anvil tight to the stump (the chain should be tight enough around the anvil that the links when pulled down don't touch the stump that way you have a bit of room to keep cinching it down if its needed) this is almost as good as caulking them down but its a quick to undo to move them or sell them or if you want to change the height of your anvil this has worked for me with Hayden and peter wrights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 CI, those anvils we used last weekend were glued down with 3M 5200, crazy strong and sticky, the ugliness was because I had 3/4 of a used tube that the tip had solidified on so I broke the body of the tube open and gooped it onto the stand with a spatula and it gets EVERYWHERE because of the tackiness thus the mess. 3M 5200 is a urethane based marine adhesive intended to glue hull fittings on ships. It runs $25 per 10oz tube give or take. The white is "fast" cure (24 hours) they make a black color as well but it is something like a week of cure time. I've used cases and cases of it to glue in oddball metal architectural trim where fasteners weren't allowed for aesthetic reasons. Fairly stiff so use a high quality caulking gun, not one of the cheap pressed steel ones. Don't use one of those battery powered caulking guns, the plunger overpowers the tube and it pops inside the gun, big mess, don't ask me how I know this. Regular good quality ($8 per tube) 100% silicone kitchen and bathroom caulk, available at your local hardware store works as well. Use the whole tube , set the anvil down on the puddle of goo, clean up any squeeze out with rags. Allow 1-2 days of cure time for best results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Another way, that is less messy, is to fabricate a couple of Z Clips. Lay down two layers of roofing felt and then bolt the anvil down tight over the felt, front and back, using your Z Clips. Trim the excess roofing felt. I find this method very effective and neat. When you need to remove the anvil there is no mess to clean up. Just be sure to fabricate the Z Clips a little short so that the anvil is really snugged down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I traced the foot pattern of my anvil and chiseled it out about an inch deeper than the top profile of the foot. then filled it in with sand so that the foot was about half way above the stump. the sand makes it easy to level and does a great job of deadening the anvil. no chain, no cleats or bolts and it will last as long ad your stump. silicone is bound to come apart and have to be replaced. probably way sooner than later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Caulking the anvil does a far far better job of silencing them than anything else I've found, other than just buying a Fisher. Brand name doesn't seem to matter. I've even been successful with masonry adhesive. Glop it on and go to pounding. The only caveat I would offer is to be ready to catch the anvil. That caulk can be mighty slippery when you glop it on, and if you anvil isn't dead level, it can start to run away when you turn your back. I'm guessing you can figure out how I found this out!! I've tried chains around the waist. I've tried magnets on the side. The only thing I've found that comes even close to the quietness of a caulked anvil is to put a magnet fore and aft. I prefer the caulk because it shuts the anvil up right proper and doesn't ever get in the way. Awesome idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawnJockey Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 5200 came to mind as soon as I saw the heading. I used it a lot on boats. It is the meanest nastiest caulking made. If you want it to stay put with great adhesive qualities it is the one to use. I hate being the guy who has to take something apart after 5200 was used. West Marine carries it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I silicone based adhesive calk. It not only quietens the ringing, it makes the anvil and stand one piece, effectively increasing the weight of the anvil. I like 3 legged metal stands because you can get up close to the anvil (feet under the anvil) so that you can stand up straight and avoid back pain and improve hammer control. I like the face of the anvil at wrist height. I believe that the face at knuckle height was for the striker, not the blacksmith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Schmirler's book* mentioned the anvils mounted in a big sand box. I've done this and with two flat irons, one before, one behind, on the base, holes each end to receive all-thread, the latter welded to the box exterior. Then, washers and nuts to suck it down level and keep it from swimming around in the sand. * "Werk und Werkzeug des Kunstschmieds" Sayings and Cornpone "To own their each." old hippie saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 To follow up on this thread, I found some of the 3M 5200 caulk and set 2 of my anvils in it yesterday. I put the removable cleats I use back on as well. The caulking says to allow 2 days for it to set and full cure is in 7 days. Being the impatient person I am, I went down to the shop today to check out how much of a difference it made and tapped the anvil a few times and it was DEAD silent even over the horn and heel. Can't wait to (but I guess I have to) get back to work on them with no ringing! For reference on what They sounded like before, I caulked down my 175 ish LB Hay-Budden and my 130 LB Columbian. If you know how loud those 2 brands can be, you can imagine how well the stuff works to make them as quiet as a FISHER. $15 bucks a tube where I am but well worth it if you want to silence your anvil. Thanks for the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Told ya so! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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