intrex Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Hey Everyone, I decided to build a new anvil stand this weekend because my current stump stand is starting to rot on the bottom and it was getting a bit unstable. For the new stand I used 4 6X6 landscaping timbers laminated together with a ton of wood glue and eight 10" log lag bolts. After getting everything setup and letting it dry for a day I put the anvil on it and realized that the anvil didn't sit flat on the stand. I had already belt sanded the top of the stand to death to get it even but as a final measure got out my hand plan and leveled the entire top. After putting the anvil back on the stand the wobble was even worse. This is when I realized that of course the bottom of the anvil isn't perfectly flat. I could keep sanding away on the top of the stand until the anvil fits perfectly but I was wondering if there was some easy trick that someone knows of get the anvil to be flush with the stand base? I read about someone using a bed of silicone but I am a little worried that won't stand the test of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpankySmith Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I just made my own stand today and was exceedingly careful to keep the top level, but when I went to place the anvil on it, I got a pronounced wobble. Hmmmm? Checked and rechecked the stand itself and finally there was no other answer than the anvil itself. I stuck a very small shim under one leg of the anvil, problem solved. Secured it to the stand, good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 You can shim the anvil or dig a hole in the stand. If you can find carbon paper, put a sheet under the anvil and it will leave an impression on the stand where you need a depression. I would think rubbing the bottom of the anvil with graphite would do the same thing. If you use silicone, how long do you want the silicone to last? If the stand wobbles, remove material from the center of the base so the stand now rests firmly on the feet, not on a high spot in the center of the stand, or the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Sheet lead was mentioned as a "bedding layer" in old smithing books; also several layers of shingles or tar paper. A good grade of silicone should last for over a decade; perhaps longer than you will want that stand that way... Be very careful sanding pressure treated lumber! (the saw dust is TOXIC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intrex Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Hey guys, Thanks for the suggestions. I wish I had a sheet of lead laying around as that seems like it would be a great way to do it. I guess I am going to go the new age silicon route though. I have been using a filtered respirator while sanding to keep from breathing in the treated lumber dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Thanks for mentioning that! We get a lot of young folks through here who don't know how to do dangerous stuff safely! (and some old coots too...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I use a thick bit of leather between my stand and anvil. I don't know how easy it is to get thick bits of leather in the US but I'm guessing you could find a bit on ebay easily enough? All the best Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 In the land of the cowboy, you can find anything that comes from a cow, even rawhide Mr. Favor, (old tv show) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Ingres, Simple and easy set up using a router. There are pics of this set up on IFI . Set up a router on a piece of ply with edges stiffened. use two boards that have been edged as runners, level the boards and screw them on either side of the stand, stump etc. eyebal the first set up so the stump or stand is relatively plumb and make sure the deck you are working off is level as well. Cut the top by making repeated passes till flat. Flip the stand or stump and do the other side . I have used this trick many times squaring off uneven surfaces so they look right. Good luck. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Ahh Peter; Intrex leveled the stand it's the ANVIL that is uneven on the bottom. Now it would be possible to flip the anvil upside down on a large mill and mill the base flat and parallel to the face; but a bit of time and expense when bedding it to the stand would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Uneven stand, uneven anvil base, doesn't matter. Buy a tube of caulk i.e. silicone, builder's adhesive, 3M 5200, etc. Spooge out the entire tube of caulk onto the top center of the stand. Place anvil on the goo, check level if you want and squish down the high end. Wait 24 hours, start hammering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intrex Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 The silicon is drying on the stand as we speak. I am going to let it start to set while watching game of thrones then go out and put one light fresh coat on the anvil and set it on the stand for the evening. I am kind of in love with this anvil and may end up taking it to a machine shop to mill the bottom but not this time around. Maybe on the next stand build :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 I read an article about the guy who invented silicon. He has a green house made from silicon on fiberglass windo screen, over 40 years old. He claimed that the endurance tests are on going (ie, haven't be gain to fail) Longevity shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intrex Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Well, I learned something about silicone today. It can go bad! I used two unopened silicone tubes left over from the bathroom remodel I did in my old house (probably 5 years old). I thought the consitency was a little strange when I was spreading it on the anvil bottom and on the stand but not until this afternoon did I realize how bad it was. None of the silicone had cured at all after 24 hours. It was just a muddy paste consistency. Apparently you really do need to pay attention to the expiration date on silicone based sealers. They degrade while they are in the tube. After removing two tubes of bad silicone from the stand and anvil then cleaning everything with alcohol I reseated the anvil again with brand new silicone. Hopefully everything will be nice and set in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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