Based on my budget i am looking at a 75# anvil on ebay, brand not named. With shipping it comes out to $215.        http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EXTREMELY-RUGGED-ROUND-HORN-FARRIER-WELDING-BLACKSMITH-75-POUND-STEEL-ANVIL-/131158248933?_trksid=p2054897.l5659

 

The other is a 70# NC standard anvil for $278 including shipping from CentaurForge.   http://www.centaurforge.com/NC-70-lb-Standard-Anvil/productinfo/18NC70/

  

    The NC costs more, weighs a bit less, though it is shaped like a traditional anvil, and seems a bit more versatile. The one listed on ebay claims to be forged, The NC on centaur forge is not stated, though they do not say with their cliff carols which are a bit more, though more than i would like to spend if i can get the same weight at almost equal quality for $50 less. Which should i get?

 

 

You couldn't give me either one of those.  One has a hardy in the sweet spot (if it even has one) the other is a ferriers anvil and not suited for heavy forging. Like anything, you get what you pay for.

in that case what is a good site to pick one up? any place people list them for sale? i can pay more if necessary. But havent found many other sites. Unfortunately most listed on centaurforge seem to be farriers. Wasnt familiar with the difference when i posted this. 

Hello Ericjor,

That first anvil you've linked is a cheap cast iron anvil shaped object (ASO) it's probably ok for a bench anvil for light bits and bobs but I honestly wouldn't bother trying to do some real forging on it.

As has been mentioned the second one is a farriers anvil. It's not really meant for heavy abuse but it is much better than the first one.

Have a look on here for TPAAT - there's a big thread on it somewhere.

Other than that I'd suggest looking at your local scrap yard if you have one. A decent lump of steel is more than enough to get you going, and you can pick it up relatively cheaply.

All the best
Andy

how about the #50 emerson? http://www.centaurforge.com/Emerson-50-lbs-Traditional-Anvil-Eligible-for-Free-Shipping-See-Home-Page-for-full-details/productinfo/EMERSON50/   

  Will 50# be enough for knives and small swords? I was told that 70# is cutting it close, but would think that 50 would be okay for tools and other small things.

  Also i dont think the first one i listed is in fact cast iron, they state on ebay that it is not cast iron, but is in fact steel.  

• Not Cast Iron- but hardened and tempered STEEL, it also has a beautiful ring to it!!

For blacksmithing you want to find something in the 100-150 pound range. You can use many things AS anvils such as sledge hammer heads, large hydraulic pistons, fork truck tines etc  You need the mass or weight.

 

Look for used anvils. Many are 100 years old or older and still have a life time or more of usefulness left in them.

.

why is it important to be so heavy? To prevent harder hammer blows from causing it to move slightly?

A 50lb anvil will work for your purpose. It's not about the anvil weight, it is about how the anvil is fasttened. If you want the anvil to work well, it cannot move on the stand, and the stand cannot more From the earth. If you use a stump as a Stand, forge at least four long tacks for to hold the anvil down. The stump must also be buried in the ground ( I have heard at least 3 feet). You can also make a steel stand but the same rules apply.

Ericjor, anyone who will not allow inspection and local pick-up is selling junk on fleabay. Lying has standard business practice there.

 

Reputable farrier suppliers will be selling real tools at fair prices, whether local or nationally from a catalog.

 

Joining your local blacksmithing group is still your best to locate local supplies, and a weekend event can cut years off the learning curve.

Double tap.

Craigslist is the best place to find an anvil. Sure, you'll have to drive to pick it up but you'll have a real anvil at that price. I've also seen nice brands of older anvils on ebay, sometimes they're overpriced, but sometimes they're not.

I think it is cool that you want to help your nephew.   I think you should avoid a new anvil.

Read the forums here as much as you can, you will find many threads on Junkyard and RR rail anvils.

 

You will also find many, many threads where someone new wants to know about making advanced things like swords.

You should read these so you have realistic expectations.

 

Not knowing your nephew, it is hard to give good advice.  I can tell you, as an older newbie, I have two anvils.

They are both Peter Wright anvils.  One is about 100# and one is 167#.  I paid $200. for each.

 

The smaller of the two came from Ohio (ebay) and the shipping to MA was $75.

The heavier one came from about 1/2 mile from my house and was found in the local classifieds in the paper.

The Peter Wrights are excellent, but loud.  Also recommended: Hey Budden, Trenton, Fisher.

From what I understand (never used one) the Fisher is an excellent and quiet anvil.

 

Read threads on these used anvils and learn what to look out for and you will be much better equipped to get him something worth having.

If you get a good one, you can always recoup your investment later if his interest fades.

 

What are you planning for a forge?

 

Hope this helps, no one else can do your legwork, but we can help steer you in the right direction - just need more details.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Peter-Wright-102-lbs-Antique-Blacksmith-Anvil-Solid-Wrought-Forged-Iron-0-3-18-/171290221108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash

 

A real anvil, in great condition, for a little more than what you wanted to pay for junk. 

A 50lb anvil will work for your purpose. It's not about the anvil weight, it is about how the anvil is fasttened. If you want the anvil to work well, it cannot move on the stand, and the stand cannot more From the earth. If you use a stump as a Stand, forge at least four long tacks for to hold the anvil down. The stump must also be buried in the ground ( I have heard at least 3 feet). You can also make a steel stand but the same rules apply.

A stump doesn't need to be buried, it is just better. They are seldom buried though. I mount my stumps on top of a large section of plate. I attach the plate to the stump with tabs and lag bolts. Makes it very difficult to move the anvil (harder to steal too). 

The Emerson in the blacksmiths pattern would be a good starter. Agree if you can one about 100-150 lb would last a life. But the 50 would still do good to start and always have around.

ive been checking on CL for about a week, but just found a 70# vanadium for $310, cheaper and bigger than the emerson on Centaurforge, i think i will be getting this one, looks well used but in pretty good shape. 

I would highly recommend having your nephew start reading this site and the books recommended herein as well. I myself am basically new to forging myself and can attest to the value of the knowledge contained. Wish you and he the best of luck.

Before you spend money you might want to hook up with the folk of the CBA. (California Blacksmith Association) They'll put you in touch with tools, equipment, classes and guys who can help in general. It's very common for guys to want to learn blacksmithing by making blades, there's a LOT more to making blades than hammering hot steel.

 

Sign your nephew up here as well, there's a lifetimes worth of things to learn about blacksmithing, blades are one specialized part of blacksmithing. It's really difficult to learn the highly technical skills necessary for bladesmithing without knowing how to blacksmith.

 

Don't get in a hurry and you'll find better quality tools. Look for an anvil in the 150-200lb. range is good advice. Remember he'll need a forge, bench, vise(s), hand tools, etc. LOTS of hand tools. Scraping, filing, sanding and polishing a blade by hand takes tools and if ye wants to use a belt grinder we're talking $ hundreds on one piece of equipment.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

To do blades right is advanced smithing; to do swords right is more post doctoral smithing.  The fastest and cheapest way to learn how to do knives is to learn the basics of blacksmithing soundly and then progress into bladesmithing.  Far faster to make your learning mistakes on something you can forge another one in a morning and not need several weeks to get back to where you made your mistake and then work another 15 minutes and make another learning mistake and have to do another couple of weeks to get back to where, etc...

Check with the scrap yards on Cutting Blvd in Richmond. The one I used to haul to has changed hands, but I think it may be LMC. If they will sell a chunk of plate, round, etc it will be farrrrrrr cheaper than an anvil, and will get you going till you locate another.

Check Craigslist religiously, as well as the auction listings / classifieds in the Sunday editions of the SF Examiner / Chronical. Also check surrounding areas that you are willing to travel to Sac, San Jose, etc. They are out there, if you look for them.

Second the recommendations to contact the local groups, or even other IFI members in your area.