natedogg56 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Hi I'm looking for a cold finish solution for a large chandelier i just finished building. Usually I apply either bees wax or linseed oil to smaller pieces of work while they are hot, this chandelier is far too big to do this efficiently. So i'm looking for something which I can apply to work cold. The person who commissioned the chandelier wants a 'traditional' finish so ideally I'm looking for something i can make up which can be applied to an unheated chandelier. Is is possible that I can simply paint it with a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine? Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldironkilz Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I read some time ago in an old book that creosote and coal oil mixed made a natural stove black. I have never uses it but I want to give it a try sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 What a toxic mix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I like watco dark walnut wood finish...Apply with a rag and let dry...do a sample piece to see if you like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg56 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Wondering if stove black would work? Has anyone used stove black for this sort of thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I make my own beeswax, turps & linseed oil wax that goes on cold & gives a nice traditional looking finish. You most often see people say to use equal measures of the 3 ingredients but I like to make it a tad heavier on the beeswax side. Mix equal measures of turps & linseed oil, melt the beeswax then pour in the fluids & mix like crazy to stop it separating in clumps. Keep the mix warm until you've finished mixing or the beeswax will set. A little goes a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 We use Guilders Paste from dickblick.com. Colors can be mixed and/or coated over. Makes forged work look great. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I like Johnson's paste wax almost as much as I like Treewax. Treewax is carnuba and is the stuff they armor bowling alleys with. Either goes on warm iron much better than room temp, a little heating with a heat gun or blow drier will do it. Either dries hard and doesn't rub off unless you really work at it and it'll polish nicely before you can get any off. I have a mix of paraffin wax, turps and Neatsfoot oil that goes on well, hardens up well and is long lasting. I have the same mix using bees wax instead of paraffin and the finish is a little softer but nice. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg56 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks for all your suggestions! I made up some of the beeswax, turps, linseed mix and has been working really well, but I would like to make it darker. When I paint it on it remains fairly clear with a slight 'tint', I'm looking for a much darker brown/black look. Can I add something else to color it? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 lamp black will help though it will still be on the surface, a little russeting may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Oldstyle wax based shoe polish; artists oil based tinting colours; putting the first coat on too hot and leating the wax burn off leaving a carbon film, temper colouring the base steel, lots of ways to get a darker colour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg56 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Great! Thanks everyone for your suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 I use linseed oil, turps and jappan dryer. linseed and turps 50/50 and a healthy pour of jappan dryer. I keep it in a small mouth can. keep it sealed at all times. the jappan dryer is just that a drying agent and will evaporate out of your can if not sealed. then I use either johnsons past wax or a carnuba based wax over it. this will darken it some, but not like a hot oil finish. it dries quick and works well inside. for instance if you were finishing a 6' rail, the beginning will be dry when you finish the end. apply a couple of coats. if you mix say a pint of each turps and linseed oil with a "healthy" pour you will not ever have a tacky finish in the summer heat, even if it were outside in the sun. you should be able to get it at the same place you get the other stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupiphile Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 The easist thing to do would be to use an iron/steel blackener and a carnuba based paste wax over top of it. Sculpt nouveau sells it, or jax, or chemcity, or probably, on your side of the pond any, distributor of harbison-walker products. It's a cold blackening aqueous solution, dilute and spray it on with a pump sprayer and your good to go.Take care , Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron quake Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Birchwood Technologies Presto Black Gel work well for me for large furniture parts, if you want a black finish. I really like the Japanese Brown from Sculpt Nouveau, a really nice brown, and their Clear Guard in matte finish is very good product as well. I like turp / linseed oil and bees wax too, as long as I can heat the part up which on large items can be a lot of trouble. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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