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I Forge Iron

latest hammer order


Aaron J. Cergol

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Hi all,

 

Just finished up this hammer order for a client. I was given creative reign on the finishes and handles. 

 

I'll let the pics speak for themselves. 8 hammers are 2.25#, one is 3.25# and the baby one is 1.75#. forged from 1045 steel. My father made me a beautiful oak box to ship them all in. the hammers are held in place by a set of two "stockades" and then shimmed on the sides so they don't rattle around. there is then a lid that slides into a dato. 

 

let me know what you think. 

 

Aaron

 

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Great work!  I'd be leery of parting with such a nice box, though!

 

Where'd you get that brace for your forearm?  I've got some repetitive stress issues in both of mine from the days of moving coin on an armored truck, but I've never found anything that supports the muscle/ligament/whatever.  Sure would make a day of forging more comfortable!

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That is beautiful work! Id like to add a little something. I know your looking for a 100# hammer per your other post..Be careful of which hammer you get if your still looking to use top tooling to make hammers and such with..Some hammers like the older LG's that have the wrap around guides have very limited space for top tools..I know I have one. You can still use top tools but they have to be very short and the guide makes it hard to see at times..It looks like you have plenty of room with that hammer.Not that Im dogging LG's, I love mine, just thought Id throw that out there .Regardless very nice work!

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Thanks all for the compliments. 

 

Vaughn, it's called a "bandit" and is the best $20 I ever spent. look for it on amazon. I had an accident last summer that tore my bicep, as well as pinching a couple nerves. Hammering would be extremely painful, and seemed to spread to tendonitis. I got this brace, and after about a month of "breaking it in" (for lack of a better term) I no longer have any pain while hammering. I think it'd be safe to go without it now, but I'm going to play it safe and keep using it for a while. If you have any elbow or arm pain while hammering, you need to invest in one of these. 

 

KY-I run a 50# LG at my shop, so I know exactly what you mean. The hammer in the photos is a friends #1 champion (65#). With the 100# LG I am thinking of (for certain applications) taking the sow block off, and putting an oversized die in the frame to be able to have more useable daylight. As long as the arms have enough clearance to not hit the wrap around guide, I think it should work fine. It'll be a big improvement over my 50 right now. This said, most of the time, I use bolt in dies with the tooling I need, or flat dies with spring tooling, so most of the time I don't use too much top tooling. I'll be adding a brake to both of them to make them suit my needs better. 

 

Aaron   

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Ive been wanting to get a set of bolt in dies for mine so that I can make special bottom die blocks for tooling. right now  I have an anvil saddle and spring tools but my flat dies were homamde by the previous owner and are pretty large. They are great dies but with just the dies you have very little space for top tools..I have just enough for spring tools in the anvil saddle..Mine dosnt have a removable sow block, that would be a god idea if it did..A 100# would have more room than a 50# anyway Id say..Good luck!

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Thanks all.

RT, must not have recieved the bribe yet... :)

T-started out as 1.75" diameter.

The Bolton dies are nice, especially of you can weld. They are quicker to change than unwedging the dies, but still to very fast. Spring tooling would allow multiple tooling changes income heat. Looking forward to the 100 with all the useable space though.

Aaron

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