eco redneck Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 hello every one to day i started making a punch to drift holes with (the kind with a wooden handle on it 0 can some one post a picture of theirs so i can see how to finish mine thanks eco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulsavw Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Maybe I'm missing something here, but I'm assuming you won't be hammering the drift all the way through the work, right? Because the problem would be with the wooden handle igniting when it passes through the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eco redneck Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 no only part way through then you start from the other side some thing like the picture but hand forged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Try this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 The tool pictured is not a forging tool it is used for lining up work so it can be bolted together by rail road and structural steel workers. A blacksmiths drift is just a round or shaped pin tapered on both ends. Handled punches are thicker and have more taper to them then handled drifts because they get hit with much more force than a handled drift. Drift punches are also useful for driving out stuck bolts and pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eco redneck Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 The tool pictured is not a forging tool it is used for lining up work so it can be bolted together by rail road and structural steel workers. A blacksmiths drift is just a round or shaped pin tapered on both ends. Handled punches are thicker and have more taper to them then handled drifts because they get hit with much more force than a handled drift. Drift punches are also useful for driving out stuck bolts and pins. sorry about the picture it was the only thing tat i could find that sort a looked like a drift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 sorry about the picture it was the only thing tat i could find that sort a looked like a drift Don't be sorry I just saw it as an opportunity to explain the difference. All you need is a round pin tapered on both ends regular steel is fine for this sort of tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 I've sure drifted a lot of holes using old bull pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 It would be finished just like a hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 I've sure drifted a lot of holes using old bull pins So have I but if you want a smooth hole with parallel sides you need drift pin that has parallel sides with a taper on both ends so it can be driven through easily. Its classic text book technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 There is some very good information here '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 What would be best for punching very small holes (approximately 1/8" diameter) in relatively thin material (maybe 1/4" thick) for things like cross key chains? I've heard some people mention using concrete nails, I'm guessing I could round one off on the belt sander and then hold with vice grips. I've been using a small steel nail set, but it folded over finally due to heat. I'm wondering if I could take the smallest bull pin I can find, which so far has a 1/4" end on it, and turn it down to 1/8". I guess as long as I go slow on the belt sander and keep it from getting too hot, turning down a bull pin may be my best bet. I have some small pin punches in my tool box, but doubt they would hold up very well under heat. I really haven't been able to find the right drift/punch for small holes like I'm dealing with. Anybody have another idea? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinobi Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I vote drill press :) otherwise, I did cross a few varieties of 'hardened steel masonry nails' of a circular cross section (like normal wire cut nails) while I was searching for a supplier for hardened cut masonry nails. so you might be able to find some of those. Tremont would be a good starting place, and maybe home depot or lowes for a box, I think they had the circular ones, they were a total disappointment for the cut nail variety. I would be interested in hearing what you end up finding out, I have been looking at using some old rotary tool shanks (1/8 inch) that the bit either broke off or was too worn to use as miniature punches for real small scale hot work, but haven't tried them out yet. plus, with a really thin diameter like that I would cut the nail length waaay down and make a kinda cup/socket to drive it with, if the nail is too long its going to buckle under hammer impact cold eventually, add heat and it will happen much faster (same with those cut nails, bent a few long ones when I got lazy and kept using them after the piece was well out of forging temp) edit: I would also look at them as somewhat consumable, if you can get a box of nails maybe 3-4 inches long you can cut 3-4 punches from each one and if they get bent or destroyed just toss it and grab the next one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Most steels will fail as they lose the benefits of heat treatment. And with wot you are asking them to do they may become rivets and part of the problem. There a steels that are formulated to not deform while hot. Used to make hot punches. The ones I am familiar with are H 13 and S7,, Pricey if you can find someone to sell you small lengths. They are worth it. You really have not told us wot you are punching or why you need to do it hot, That kind of information may lead to better and more to the point answers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 You really have not told us wot you are punching or why you need to do it hot, That kind of information may lead to better and more to the point answers. I mentioned punching holes in cross key chains for the split key ring to go through, but that's just one example of where I'd use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinobi Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 a while ago I rough forged one of those same cut steel nails into a miniature tomahawk head and I wanted to attempt to punch an eye for it, rather than drill, because theres so little material there. kind of an optimistic project, but would make for some pretty cool earrings or necklace pennants, kinda like the thors hammer, but not all from one piece of metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 A little dressing on a grinder and roller bearings will work for drifts and punches but bear in mind they're not really impact allow steel so use something for a scatter shield till the temper runs a bit. Drifting a straight hole doesn't require a parallel sided drift if you drive it all the way, through though it does help. Seriously, punching steel jewelry doesn't require hot work at all, just a compound lever punch, I have one in the shop but the name escapes me. (STUPID TREE!!!) You can buy male and female dies for not unreasonable. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinobi Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Something like a Roper Whitney hand hole punch? I think you still end up losing the mass of the hole punched like a drilled hole, leaving fairly thin side walls, right? I'd be looking to get that swelled appearance typical of a slit and drift operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I've sure drifted a lot of holes using old bull pins Thomas is right they work great Mark Aspery recommends them in his second book. if you can get torch en bars I have used many of them just don't waste time hardening and tempering them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 O 1 your right you did say that...I said wot I did as I was asking the original poster,..Eco Redneck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 If you want to punch 1/8 thru 1/4 you are going to have a tough job because the punch will be so thin it will tend to heat soften and mushroom in the hole and get stuck. A hole like this would be made easily and efficiently by drilling even blacksmiths of old would have looked to drill a hole of that size. If the stock were thinner it could be cold punched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 If you want to punch 1/8 thru 1/4 you are going to have a tough job because the punch will be so thin it will tend to heat soften and mushroom in the hole and get stuck. A hole like this would be made easily and efficiently by drilling even blacksmiths of old would have looked to drill a hole of that size. If the stock were thinner it could be cold punched. Good to know - thanks. The first one I did worked out perfect, but then the following ones I had to resort to the drill press, which I try to avoid just for principle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 The rule of thumb with cold punching is you should not punch steel thicker than the diameter of the punch. People have been drilling holes since the stone age. Smiths often would hot punch holes because it was faster than drilling but this was before powered drill presses and high speed steel twist drills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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