Forging a drawknife from a railroad spike (video)

[Timmy Charles]

I have seen lots of guys forge knives out of railroad spikes. Drawknives on ebay are like $20usd and up. I figured, why not try to make a drawknife from a railroad spike. Well here is my first go at it. Any critiqueing is welcomed (as long as it is helpful). I want to learn and the only way to do it from others advise. Thanks and enjoy. If you like the video please subscribe to my YouTube channel.

Check out the video HERE.

[Dan C]

Hi Tim,

 

Nice video as usual.  You did a fine job turning that spike into your desired object.  I do a lot with RR spikes as well, knives or as many say "letter openers" as the amount of carbon in even the HC ones is less than what you want in a knife (maybe 30-35 point carbon). 

 

Part of what makes them of interest to people as a knife or small axe is that you can tell what it was in a former life, if you can forge weld a piece of better steel for the cutting edge even better.  My question though is it seems like a lot of work to forge something such as a spike into a drawknife that is not recognizable and will not perform as well say if you started with a known steel such as 1095, or even an unknown steel from an old file that spark tests as tool steel.  You definitely proved that you have the ability to forge it into whatever shape you desire and for that I commend you, but why not start with more appropriate material to start with that results in a better performing product that's going to hold an edge that doesn't gain even the novelty of what it was in a former life?

 

Dan

[MLMartin]

Rail road spikes are great!  errrr Great for rail road spikes. And not go for anything ells. I would forge a draw knife out of some type of steel with more carbon. 

[Timmy Charles]

Dan,

  I started laughing when I was reading what you wrote. It was a bit of work to create this. I did this for a couple reasons.

 

 1. I have like 20+ spikes

 2. Trial to see how to form it and the steps to do it in, how to form the handles

 3. Try the technique of burning the handles onto the tangs.

 4.  Practice, practice, practice (I think :rolleyes:)

 

I know it probably won't hold an edge, but it was fun to create. My dad also has an old logging saw (unusable) that he has hanging up, this is actually going to go to him for fathers day to hang as well.

 

Thanks for watching and commenting with the helpful advice. I will be making another one, but out of better material.

[Dan C]

That's a very nice father's day present and will display nicely next to the logging saw!  I forged my dad a small paring knife from an old file, partial tang and a piece of antler for the handle.  It's a bit on the ugly side, but shaving sharp and useful as can be.  I need more practice making handles and was thinking about that while watching that part in your video.  Thanks for the ideas there!

[Francis Trez Cole]

 Just keep practicing. the more you make the better you will get. It seamed your anvil moved around try to make it more secure it will help. Look up striking anvil thread one can be made for very little money a rail is good but having good flat surface is better.

[bigfootnampa]

Actually drawknives need not be super sharp and do not get a lot of wear... one made from a spike might work reasonably well.  Stiffness is important however and I imagine that a spike is a bit short on the mass needed for a really high quality drawknife.  I have recently discovered that my woods work MUCH more easily when they are soaking wet.  The work is so much faster that way that it pays to rough out everything wet and then dry stuff as needed.  Rain taught me this!  Heed the weather!

[Frank Turley]

I visited the renowned S. D. Myers Saddle Shop in El Paso in the mid 1950's. Toward the back of the shop, I noticed a man carving saddle tree bars with a draw knife. I watched him for a while, because it was fascinating to see how handy he was. The bars have interesting compound curves, and the knife was often used with the bevel facing the wood. I would assume that the knife was kept quite sharp, because this man was a pro and this is what he did all day, every work day.

[ThomasPowers]

Hard woods with high silica content need a very sharp long lasting edge to work; it's a froe that doesn't!  Just try working some oak that has been air drying for 100 years in the desert with a dull drawknife!

 

So get a large coil spring and make some that will go the distance! 

[Judson Yaggy]

I've used a drawknife a lot during my former career as a professional timber framer.  When used properly and professionally they do see a lot of wear and need to be of equal quality to woodworking chisels and knives.  By all means make one out of a RR spike, it'll be a fun learning experience.  Heck, make 10 and you will get really good at forging them out.  Then make one out of quality high carbon steel and you will be pleasantly surprised at the difference.  

 

Bevel up or bevel down on a drawknife is like horn to the left or right in the blacksmithing world.  It depends on how you want the tool to work for you.  Get the job done well and get paid.  The client doesn't care what side your bevel/horn was on.  

[bigfootnampa]

Well I use mine almost always bevel down as the distance between the fulcrum (bevel width) and the cutting edge is much shorter that way giving increased control!  The other way your fulcrum becomes the dull side of the blade... unless your drawknife has a small bevel on the flat side too (as many older ones do).  I can cut a pickup load of shavings or two between sharpenings with my blades and I do make them pretty sharp... but because of the slightly steep bevel, they do not approach the extreme sharpness that my carving knives have.  I use my drawknives a LOT... currently have about 30 to 40 handle blanks saved up to be shaped out.  The steel is QUITE good in most of my knives but I am sure that I could get by with poorer steel.  I can see where a timber framer would use his drawknives more heavily than I do mine as most of my stock is branch wood rather than big logs.  The way that I use my drawknives most of the time more closely resembles the functions of a froe than that of a carving knife.  I am usually working quite hard woods though... pecan, hickory, oak, maple, osage orange, mulberry, locust, hackberry, elm, etc.  By working them wet I have cut my effort in half... less struggle with the knotty areas mostly but also the bark removal and splitting cuts are almost effortless in comparison with working dry wood blanks!!

[Frosty]

Make another one and weld in a high carbon bit. That's a lot of work to go to and not end up with a high quality tool. It'll work a treat debarking without a hard edge provided the wood is green. It'll make a fine wall hanger and your Dad is sure to love it. It's NEVER a loss to make something for your Dad. I wish I could.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Walnut Square Iron]

That looked good.  This video came at a great time.  I have a few worn files that I want to make into drawknives but smaller and thinner.  I have never worked with heating files, so I will see how it turns out.  I have vacation this week, so I hope to get in some forge time and turn out some useful tools.  

[Thomasaboucher]

I agree with dcraven. It seems like a lot of work to get that spike down to a drawknife. Here is a great tutorial I followed to make a draw knife. Walnut square iron I think this might work good for you with the files. They are probably about the right size.

[Reading Creek Forger]

I have wondering about making a draw knife from an old leaf spring so your railroad spike idea caught my eye.  Might the leaf spring be a good choice as a source of steel.  I have heard they make good knives but I wonder about a draw knife that would be used on heavier material than a typical knife.

[ThomasPowers]

Yes in general leaf springs are a good steel for many wood working tools.  However try to get new ones as fatigue can cause hidden cracks in old ones.  Places that do lifts or lowers on vehicles will often let you have your weight in springs that are taking off if you explain what you plan to do with them.