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mobile anvil stands


forgesm

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I'm in the process of planning and setting up a shop so I can get started learning something.  I want to build several self-contained tables/stands that could be rolled in and out of my garage.  Has anyone had success building a wheeled anvil stand that is solid and stationary once wheeled to the desired location.  Suggestions and pics would be a huge help! 

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The simplest set up would be to to mount it to a stump and use a hand truck to move it. Otherwise, a three legged stand like several of us have, modifies by adding two wheels, with the axle behind the rear legs, and the weale just touching the ground. So when setting in use the legs support the weight, but when tilted the wheels do. As anvils are so short you will have to add removable handles, eithe two out the front like a wheelbarrow or one, maybe threw the hardy hole as a hand truck.
The same works well for benches and forges, but the handles can be permenent, just think hand cart (two wheeled wheelbarrow).

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my big anvil is permanently mounted but I have a small portable 85lber on a stump that I move with either a handtruck  or I"ll  a lot of times it seems easier to poke a cheater bar with a 90 on  the end of it into the hardy hole and "crab walk" it  where ever I need it.Its kinda like I use what ever is close at hand.

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Farriers use a fold up anvil stand, made from 1" square tubing. Has a small table beside the anvil base to hold some tools. K.I.S.S.

 

If it is a big anvil, make a 4 wheel cart. The two axles will pivot up off the ground when you get to your destination (think pivot point. when axle is under the stump, you have rollage. when axle is pivoted up from below the stump, you have stumpage). Whatever you do to move the anvil, do it SAFE!!!! Anvils make big dents in wood floors!!

 

A friend of mine has a piece of 2" square tubing (trailer receiver hitch) welded to all his tools/post vice/anvil stand. He welded up a hand cart with a piece of 2" square, trailer hitch piece, put your hand cart into the 2" square of whatever you are wanting to move, put in the safety pin (just like a trailer hitch). Now you can transport without it falling over or flopping. Works too simple to be true, but it is.

 

Neil

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  • 3 weeks later...

Check out this idea. I needed to move my Gladiator around (it weighs 715#'s with the stand). It's a little shaky until you get it up onto the jack but once it's on the jack it very solid for moving. You could even take my design and improve it some.

 

#1. I put a + shape set of wood with some metal rails under the anvil. I use the palette jack to raise the whole anvil up. (this is a mini jack I got from Grizzly. I'd be lost without it)

 

#2. I put some steel blocks I welded up under the plus shape. Then I lower the jack

 

#3.  I put the jack under the 3 anvil legs

 

#4. Now I move it to wherever I want to move it and reverse the steps above to dismount it.

 

 

If I were to build any sort of integral casters that, for example, lower down with a screw they would rattle every time the anvil took a blow. A way out of this might be some hard points welded to your anvil stand that accept casters that can lower down with some type of screw mounting. I'm sure that wouldn't be to difficult to engineer. I haven't done that myself as I just don't move my anvil very often. Would rather just have inside anvil and outside anvil.

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I borrowed this idea from a friend,attachicon.gifimage.jpg
Has a removable handle and I routered out the top to fit the base of the anvil.
Another view,attachicon.gifimage.jpg
I used 6X8 timber with a 1X shim to fit this 150# Fisher.

 

For the weight of that anvil it's a good idea, but if you get much heavier you might not be able to correct it if it starts to go over on you. X_X  You definitely wouldn't want the anvil and the stand falling over on you. I've moved anvils with a handtruck and tore a tendon in my thumb. The way you have those bars is the best way to do it. Handtruck bars are perpendicular which put stress on the wrists. Parallel to the load handling bars (like yours is built) allows you to use the pull of your arms. Much safer that way.

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We used an engine hoist  to load my 515# fisher into my truck...

 

I'd suggest you use a light travel anvil (say 100 pounds) that you can move independently of your stump.

 

I used to have to pick up my 93# anvil, climb the rickety basement stairs with it, walk through the kitchen and out the back door, down a step for the back porch and then down 3 steps to get to ground level and place it on it's stump.  Bad neighborhood, no tools left outside the house! 

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  • 1 month later...

Just now getting back to this topic line. I don't think I would use the above wheeled stand for anything above 150 lbs. the balance point would be too small to overcome by upper body strength alone. I was a big fan of using truck (big truck) brake drums as a base for a stand, but they were a bit of a pain to move around. Though they did work on concrete somewhat. I recently had a 300 lbs Vulcan on a brake drum stand that I could slide and/or "walk" into position. For my next large anvil, ie, 500 lbs or more, it will have a nice solid wood base with no wheels. If I need to move it, that's what my John Deere is for.

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I'm in the process of planning and setting up a shop so I can get started learning something.  I want to build several self-contained tables/stands that could be rolled in and out of my garage.  Has anyone had success building a wheeled anvil stand that is solid and stationary once wheeled to the desired location.  Suggestions and pics would be a huge help! 

 

Welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you put your general location in your header we won't have to keep asking.

 

I use my garage sale engine hoist to roll mine around without too much hassle. I don't think I've seen a wheeled anvil stand that looked like it worked well though. I think the closest was the stand and ancil mounted on a round steel plate it tipped up and rolled like rolling a 55 gl. drum.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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