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Forging a cut off hardy out of a jackhammer bit


Pug}{maN

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got a nice gift in the mail today, first off the craftsmanship is outstanding ! i have flat never seen i nicer piece. one thing i need to know is if it is supposed to fit tighter than it does, below is a video...

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heres some other pics of them together, i will not be able to test them out till sunday or monday so stay tuned...

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Won't the wedge-shape shank let it wobble in the hole? Is it possible to wedge it into the hole so hard that it gets stuck or strains the anvil? Sometimes I see pictures of anvils that have the heel broken off right at the hardie hole. I wonder if it is from the wedging action of a tapered shank.

I just made a cut off hardie and a bottom fuller and assumed that they needed to have parallel sided shanks with a collar to rest on the anvil face. Upsetting a substantial collar was very hard for me - the tapered style would be easier.

My hole is 1 1/8", so I started with 1 1/4" round stock, squared it up for the shank, and dressed it down for slip fit. I stuck it in the hole and whaled away with an 8 lb sledge to upset it. At first the edges of the hole curled off shavings from the sides of the shank, but after a little while the top part diameter widened out to make a little shoulder. I couldn't get it very big, though. At a certain point I ran out of steam and gave up. It works fine, but I envisioned something with a distinct collar like the one you made.

You made a nice looking tool, but I prefer the curved edge. With the curved edge your hammer face can come down little bit tilted and it still won't hit the cutting edge. Seems like the straight edge would be a lot less forgiving.

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The tapered shank allows the hardy to wedge in tight so it does not wobble. A sharp blow to the side will release it. Hold onto it while you release it. The first hit while you are cutting should set it. I am not able to post any videos right now, but maybe someone else out there can do so. Once you evidence it, you'll see. If I could I'd show both styles and others, so the whole world could see. I've been showing it for many years now, but not many have ever tried it until these past three years. You'll see, or you can stay behind with the rest.

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That is correct Eric, the fine edge of the hot cut makes it so that either your work or the edge of the hardy will give out long before you can put enough force into it to cause any stress on the hardy hole. And no, this is NOT an approach you would use for any hardy tool with a blunt edge like a fuller, swage, etc. The surface to contact area would allow the force to drive it through the anvil and possibly crack the heel...

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I am not able to post any videos right now, but maybe someone else out there can do so. Once you evidence it, you'll see.


ill get one sunday , i just cant right now , got this thing i do most the day think they call it work ! lol...but first thing sunday morning ill use both and do a video for ya...
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Reminds me Brian, I need to ring you sometime and pick your brain... having an issue with hammers. I'll try to rember to call. Mostly just a matter of having issues getting the drift back into they eye straight when coming back from isolating the faces... it distorts the hole a little, and it seems no matter how careful I am replacing the drift, it turns slightly one way or the other resulting in a slightly diagonal eye... only a degree or so, but annoying nonetheless...

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Hey usually it takes me a cut or two to get one of these tapered shank hardies to really seat itself into the particular hole I'm using it in. After that, one tap and it's in firm. It just needs to get "introduced" to the new hole, and get aquainted before it sits quietly.

I use these curved blade hardies every day. I used mine today to make a couple cuts in 1.25-inch solid round car axle. Cuts like a charm.

I directed during a cut we did at the ABANA conference. I was using a striker (Kainon Baumer,) and a top cut, along with the hardy. First off, I marked the location of the cut all the way around with a hand hammer. Then I used the top cut and striker to complete the cut. The material was 1.25-inch or 1.5 inch solid round axle material (4140 or so.) The cut was done in one heat, but the killer is, the top cut head came off twice because I did not seat it on the handle. I had to stop, pick up the top tool, replace it onto the handle, seat it back on the handle, and then go back to cutting TWICE, and still made the cut in a single heat.......with heat to spare!

These things cut great and I'm looking forward to your video!

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got the video done , i to was AMAZED at how well Brians cuts ! and like a say at the end of the video i have been useing a chisle to cut with and i can tell you mine was better than that but Brians was way more fluent and easier to use for me even being the first time to use a anvil mount hot cut, its whell thought out and as you can see faster to use...

thanks Agen for the gift Brian , and i cant wate till March ! if these are the quality of tools i can expect its going to be a grate 7 days ! see ya then....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaQNJok5kNY&feature=youtu.be

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Nice job Pug}{maN, I've been using the curved style for awhile now, thanks to Aaron Cergol, and agree with your result. I returned from Brian's 2 weeks ago and made these with Brian's brother Ed for "practice". The scolloped one was left as is by design, I've been using all 3 work and they work great.
Work area contact - reduce it.............

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