Made some progress on the anvil stand last night, hope to finish it up tonight and start on my post vise mount. This is for my 155 lb. Hay Budden anvil.

Used a 1" thick piece of steel for the plate, 2" x 4" x 1/4" for the legs, & 1/4" plate for the feet.

Set the legs at 15 degrees off vertical. Had to preheat the plate to get good burn in.

Was shooting for the top of the anvil to be around 32" high, kind of missed on that one, but it's a little over 30" and is still slightly higher than my knuckles, so it should be all good.

Going to coat the stand contact area with Sikaflex 11FC polyurethane adhesive.

Still have to finish the front clamping device, hardy tool holder, and throw some paint on it.

Nice!

looks good what it come in at in pounds ?

looks good what it come in at in pounds ?

Thanks.

Not sure on the weight yet, but I'll weigh it when I get it finished.

Still thinking about possibly filling the legs with sand, could put flush style threaded plugs in the bottom of the feet for fill ports. Not sure if there's enough volume to make it worthwhile though.

Very nice job!

Put the sand, it may help a bit with weight but also will deaden any vibrations.

Put the sand, it may help a bit with weight but also will deaden any vibrations.

Yeah I'm convinced. I'm going to pick up three 1/2" NPT flush pipe plugs and a bag of sand today.

I like that one I may steal the design :)

I like that one I may steal the design :)

Ha! Steal away....considering I stole portions of design from many different people and mixed it all up into this one :D . I am attempting to use some of my own ideas as well though.

Might try a double thickness of roofing felt between the anvil and stand. With that as padding, and the z clips tightened down good and tight, you may not need the sikaflex to deaden the sound.

Nice anvil, nice stand . A very pretty picture indeed.

These should do the trick for the sand fill ports on the bottom of the feet.

Might try a double thickness of roofing felt between the anvil and stand. With that as padding, and the z clips tightened down good and tight, you may not need the sikaflex to deaden the sound.

Nice anvil, nice stand . A very pretty picture indeed.

I'll give the felt a try, it would be a lot less messy for sure.

WOW, that is really nice. love the progressive photos of the build too.

Looking great!

I like the face to be at wrist hight. You can stand up close with that design and with wrist hi you will stand up straight and not have the back ache in the evening. I usually put the horn over the 3rd leg. I weld loops around the stand for hanging hammers.

Made some more progress last night, this 106 degree temperature is slowing me down a little.....

Almost got it finished up, have to add the hardy tool holder tonight. Then it will be time to start on my post vise mount.

I went ahead and through-tapped the 3/8" hole in the plate for the mounting clamp.....that was slightly less than fun :D . I put a small stack of feeler gages under the back part of the clamp between it and the plate, then tacked the vertical and top pieces together, this created a slight gap (about 1/8") at the back of the clamp to give it the clamping force it needed. The two layers of felt worked out really well and the clamp it very tight before making full contact with the plate.

r smith - great call on the sand! I can't believe the difference it made in noise. Striking a hollow leg versus a sand filled leg was all it took to convince me on that one.

knots - Also a great call on the felt, I used two layers of 30# felt and it did the trick. With the anvil clamped down, it no longer rings at all, it's more of a dull "thud" now. I can't believe how much quieter it is now.

The anvil and stand clamped down solid. I still need to weight the stand, but from picking it up, it doesn't feel far off from the anvil at this point.

I appreciate all the great input and ideas, this forum rocks!

I like the face to be at wrist hight. You can stand up close with that design and with wrist hi you will stand up straight and not have the back ache in the evening. I usually put the horn over the 3rd leg. I weld loops around the stand for hanging hammers.

Yes sir, that's the height I had planned for, but the legs were already cut and came up a little short in the end. I was shooting for 32" and ended up with a little over 30". I still have a lot of scrap 1" plate left over, so if it starts hurting my back I'm going to give her a lift at the feet.

Yes sir, that's the height I had planned for, but the legs were already cut and came up a little short in the end. I was shooting for 32" and ended up with a little over 30". I still have a lot of scrap 1" plate left over, so if it starts hurting my back I'm going to give her a lift at the feet.

Wood blocks cut from a 2 x 4 would work as well. How level is your floor ? If wood is used you easily could fit it level to a specific location. That would make it a half inch shy of 32" but should be close enough. I think I would go ahead and do it. A couple of small screw holes in each foot and you are ready to go. You could use some of that 30# felt as shim material if leveling is needed.

Wood blocks cut from a 2 x 4 would work as well. How level is your floor ? If wood is used you easily could fit it level to a specific location. That would make it a half inch shy of 32" but should be close enough. I think I would go ahead and do it. A couple of small screw holes in each foot and you are ready to go. You could use some of that 30# felt as shim material if leveling is needed.

It's a pretty level concrete floor. I was afraid that the wood would give me some spring (or compression?) and make the system not as solid? I could screw the wood to the feet and then anchor bolt through the feet into the concrete to pull everything down tight?

I'm going to have a lot of the 6"x6" left over from my post vise mount, so I could custom cut some feet to any height with my miter saw. It's pressure-treated and should be solid. I can't remember which way is stronger, with the grain or against. I could cut them from either direction.

I really like the workability of the wood idea, since my plasma cutter won't cut the 1" plate clean and I sold my big torch set like a dummie......

I had a stand that was to low. I had some channel iron that when welded onto the legs brought it right up to "just right". The wood would work but metal with less flex would be better. I use a good adhesive chalk to "glue" the anvil down and make a ridged attachment to dampen the ring. For my traveling anvil I chalked the bottom of the anvil but put a piece of saran wrap then put it on the stand. Now it has the solid attachment but when moving it to a demonstration I can move the anvil and stand seporately. The anvil is 100# and the stand is 85#.

Easy enough to try it both ways. As it sits is steel to concrete. Forge a few sessions to get a feel for that configuration then try the wood blocks. Nothing lost if you can feel the difference. I suspect you won't.

I picked up a 3"x3" piece of red oak and had it ripped down to 2"x3". I drilled through the foot plate on each side and used small trim nails to keep the blocks located, then ran 3/8" Grade 8 bolts down through the feet into drop-in concrete anchors. Now the anvil face sits at 32". It's solid as a rock.

So in proper redneck form......I have now successfully installed lift blocks on my anvil stand :D

I decided to pick up an all-thread 3/8" bolt for the front clamp. Threaded the bolt all the way through the plate and then backed it up with an all metal locknut to ensure it doesn't ever loosen up.

I'm out of excuses......it's time to learn how to use all this stuff properly!

Man - your shop is to clean ..... Nice stand though :) !!!

I wish I could have one like that but I have a concave bottom Brooks and she sings!!!! So she sits in sand to keep her quite.

Man - your shop is to clean ..... Nice stand though :) !!!

Ha! But not always my friend....my OCD just kicks in after working in a mess for a number of days and I have to clean it up to reset for the next project -