New Vise! Also a question

[Ridgewayforge]

Today I was searching craigslist like I do everyday, only this time I came across something I just could not believe.
There was a leg vise, minus the spring and mounting bracket (which I will forge) for a whopping Ten Dollars.
Only Ten Dollars!!!!
Here is my vise!
She's a beautiful 3 1/2", 34 pound piece of rusty, dusty metal, but she's mine!
The emblem stamped on the side is a star, can anyone tell me what brand it is?
The screw looks pretty good, not too much wear on it, but I'm going to rip it apart and give it a good once over and cleaning. Can anyone give me some pointers on how to correctly dissassemble the vise? (or, is it straightforward?)



Also, can someone show me an example of what the mounting bracket should look like for this particular vise?
Thanks for looking,

~Rf

[brian.pierson]

Iron City has a 6 pointed star logo

[Ridgewayforge]

Okay, thanks. I think it might be an Iron City Vise. Were these wrought iron, cast iron or cast steel?
Also, I'm sorry about the large pictures; these should be resized:
http://s1078.photobu...nt=DSC01473.jpg
http://s1078.photobucket.com/albums/w485/RidgewayForge/?action=view&current=DSC01473.jpg#!oZZ4QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1078.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw485%2FRidgewayForge%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC01472.jpg
http://s1078.photobucket.com/albums/w485/RidgewayForge/?action=view&current=DSC01473.jpg#!oZZ6QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1078.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw485%2FRidgewayForge%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC01470.jpg

[Bob S]

I would probably make a new handle. The threads might be a little hard on your hand.

But it does have a funky kind of look.

Nice vice. I have a 3-1/2" on my layout/welding table. Very handy.

[pkrankow]

Why is there a hose clamp on the screw box?

Disassembly should be obvious. Take a photo half apart so you know where the washers are supposed to go, just in case.

The handle could use replacing, but what is there is perfectly servicable.

The vise should be drop forged from mild steel, but I may be wrong.

Phil

[Timothy Miller]

Most likely the mount was a iron casting that accepted a threaded u-bolt. Sometimes it was made out of steel. The later vises did not have the strap with a slot that was tightened by wedges. This is a early 20th century style vise. This is my version of this type of mount not exactly right but it has worked for about 10 years.

[Ridgewayforge]

I don't know why that's there- I hope its not hiding a crack! I just took pictures as soon as I got it home. The screw is the only thing I have a question on: Does it just screw all the way out? The back of the housing seems loose-its not connected to the jaw. Is that normal? Thanks Phil for your answer, and yes, I am going to forge myself a new handle. That in itself might be quite interesting, upsetting the bar for each ball end!

[Timothy Miller]

The ends of the handle were not upset on most vises they were forge welded collars that were then rounded up in a ball swage. Handles on later vises may have been upset but that was most likely done in an upsetting machine or press.

[Frank Turley]

Iron City dates from the 1850's out of Pittsburgh and later in the mid-20th century was sold to Warren Tool Group in Ohio. These are my two Iron City vises. The older vise, 7 1/4", has the "ears" on the jaws, reportedly "to keep filings out of the works." It has the type of forged mount that I have seen on this and other Iron City vises. The U shackle and the splayed "arms" are of one piece. The box is cast, but probably not gray cast iron. I would guess it was semi-steel.

I assume the other Iron City vise, a 6" one, was made by Warren Tool in Ohio, even though it is stamped 'IRON CITY.' It is a good vise but doesn't have the class nor classic look of the older vises. Notice the "ears" are absent. It lacks the chamfered legs. It has a different mounting bracket, but I suspect the bracket is original to this particular vise. The box is cast.

You've probably seen by now that the box has a lug/stop which fits into a keyway to keep it from turning. It will be sloppy until everything is assembled with the spring tension.

Iron City was quite a going concern in its day. They made railroad tools, mining tools, and blacksmith tools.

[Timothy Miller]

Listen to Frank

[pkrankow]

Yes, run the screw all the way out, hang on to it as it is deceivingly heavy. The screw box comes out of the stationary jaw, and may hang up a bit. Use a block of wood and gently drive it out if it won't go. (Don't try to kill it, it should come out easy) The pivot is a single bolt and should also be flushed and greased, feel free to take it apart. Wash the screw and screw box in kerosene, especially inside the screw box. Apply fresh grease and reassemble.

I hope the clamp is just hanging on for no good reason too.

For making a new handle, find a piece of mild that is a close running fit to the handle hole, then it is a choice of methods. I would cross drill for a roll pin (simple is good). Threading is a good option too. Tenoning and riveting is another option, as is welding collars or upsetting.

Tim's mount is best because it is simple and strong. Making an original style mount is up to you, there is a thread on those here.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/18966-mount-for-post-vise/

The spring can be made out of some mild flat stock and will hold up just fine. You can forge the ends hot, and bend the curve cold.

Enjoy the vise.

Phil

[Ridgewayforge]

All wonderful knowledge, I'm going to take it apart now and see how it goes. I don't have kerosene to flush it out of, would Denatured Alcohol work, or is there some other stuff I should use?

[ThomasPowers]

What do you have? Naphtha, WD40, diesel, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, any non-polar solvent should work; some will take longer than others and some are MUCH MORE DANGEROUS than others (why I do not suggest gasoline! NO! NO! Don't use it, BAD DOG!)

Picking up a gallon of diesel at the service station and soaking the screw and screw box in it for a week or so should work fine, especially if you can run a bottle brush through the screwbox a couple of times over that week to get the goo off the crud.

I've even used used motor oil as I had a bunch of it as a quench tank---before I wised up and switched to vegetable oil for quenching.

Do you have a *good* friend with a parts cleaner?

[Frank Turley]

Recently, I cleaned some grease from a blower, some of it done physically with a little mild steel scraper and some of it with fine and coarse wire brushes. I did have some "purple power" solvent I got from Pep Boys. Finally, I took the parts to the car wash and gave them a power spray with soap suds and a clear rinse. That was a time saver.

[John McPherson]

A tip from an old tractor forum is to put the parts in an old ammo box, paint bucket or other suitable container with your parts cleaner of choice and lash it in the bed of your truck for a week or two. All that sloshing around will dislodge most crud. Potholes and gravel roads are force multipliers. B)

[Ridgewayforge]

Thank you all for the advice and help- right now its soaking in some solvent, and I'm going to give it a brushing with a toothbrush to get the crud out of the threads. There was very little grease on it, it was mostly just some dust and dirt. The threads look in good shape, little wear on them, as does the screwbox.
When I assemble it and use it, it has to remain outside as my shop is not under a covering yet. Could someone give me advice as to what I should do to keep it from getting siezed up with rust?
I was thinking about wire brushing all the current rust off, then painting it up, except for the jaws and screw, and covering those with a good coating of oil. Would this work to keep it from quickly reversing my hard work?

[ciladog]

What is this obsession with rust all about? What is rust anyway? Fe₂O₃.nH₂O that is iron + oxygen + water = rust. Rust is just iron oxide and believe it or not is a protective coating to prevent a further degradation of the iron it forms on.

When rust forms it prevents oxygen from reaching the iron so the reaction stops.
Now when you clean off all the rust what happens? It rusts all over again.

Think about where that vise has been and how old it is. Did it rust away? Is it still a useable tool?

As long as there is no electrolysis going on like in contact with wet soil or soaking in water where there is present a less electro-negative metal rust only goes so far and stops.

So grease up the box and screw and don’t worry about rust. That vise will outlast you by another hundred years.

Tools are to be used, they are functional. They don’t have to be pretty.

[pkrankow]

Pack the screw box with grease. You will need something heavier than oil if it is getting weather. Keep the vise covered, but open to the air, so rain and snow won't sit on it. A bucket thrown over the top of the vise is good for this, and lets air at it so it stays dry.

The existing patina is pretty weather resistant. Oiling the patina and leaving it is one option, although cleaning it and painting is also an option.

Phil

[ThomasPowers]

Always leave it with the jaws in the closed position---this lets the screw stay mainly in the greased up screwbox.

I like the mod from the fellow that installed a zerk on the back end of the screwbox---keeps weather out and greasing it pushes the old grease *out*. Don't forget to grease the pivot joint and the thrust washers on it too.

In general I don't do much with the rest of the vise than wirebrush any loose rust off it. Hot steel is hard on paint....burning paint is hard on me....

[Ridgewayforge]

I'm going to wire brush it, like you said, Thomas, and I'm going to knock off some of the thicker crud near the jaws-its kinda hanging over a little bit, might get in my way.
Ciladog, you've opened my eyes to see that rust isn't that bad! (also, if I leave it rusty, I won't have a fit when it starts rusting again! :P ) I'll probably build a box to cover the vise, and pack it full of grease. Does anyone have any reccomendations as to what size stock I should use for the spring return? It opens pretty well by itself, only needs a little bit of help.

[ciladog]

Ciladog, you've opened my eyes to see that rust isn't that bad! (also, if I leave it rusty, I won't have a fit when it starts rusting again! :P )

Now you're talking. Pretty tools don't make you a better blacksmith!

[Ridgewayforge]

Now you're talking. Pretty tools don't make you a better blacksmith!

Nope! Better blacksmiths make better tools, though, and they also make better blacksmiths! Personally, I like the look of metal covered with a film of rust-I was just worried about the effect of the rust. So, a thick coating of regular ole grease should do the trick on the screw and screwbox?

[ciladog]

If the vise is going to be exposed to the elements I suggest you use a marine grade grease such as used on boat trailer wheel bearings. It will repel water better and won't emulsify. You don't need to 'pack' the box. Just coat the screw and run it in and out of the box a few times.

[Bigred1o1]

i tend to wire brush the loose rust off of tools and they wipe down with linseed oil that soaks into the rust and sort of forms a shell
it by no means makes things shiny and new but it dose have a nice look and while i dont mind rust i dont like things looking neglected as far as first impressions go when people come into the shop
but then i also pain repairs i make to our farm equipment where i have had to weld things (even though i realize they will not rust out in my lifetime)

[Finnr]

Last one I picked up I just squirted a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil on the threads and ran them in and out a few times . The crusty old grease wiped right off the screw and an olod milking machine brush took care of the thread box. YMMV. My vises stay inside and I usually use 30 weight oil on them. If I am using them a lot it gets replaced once a week. As I have been laid up for quite some time it's been near a year but when I went to the shop today they were peachy keen!