Mount for post vise

[clinton]

I have a 6 inch post vise that I picked up last year and it is missing the mounting bracket and spring. So I want to forge new parts for it as it will be in my shop and I want the parts to be forged not fabricated. This seems like a pretty straight forward operation, Take a piece of stock that is the appropriate size, slit and drift a hole then flatten the other side. My other thought was to create the slot by folding a piece of bar stock over then forge welding it, but this would not require a piece of stock with enough material to do the flatting on the side that bolts down. I did have another vise that was split and spread out into a Y shape to bolt down, so that is an option as well.

I think this one may be drop forged

[lordcaradoc]

Clinton,

Here is what I would do in your situation. (if I had a forge at the moment that is. )

Take a 1/2" square stock piece and fold it in half. Weld that together leaving a few inches where the ends come together so you can flatten them out later for the mounting bolts. Then do your wrap and weld to create that square eye and weld that too. Then flatten out the now essentially 1" thick section and draw out the tails and drill/punch for the bolts. I've seen the tailed out mounts too, but that should give you all the features you are looking to replicate.

Here is a link that may help: Anvilfire: Blacksmith Vises
In the middle and near the end are the parts about the bracket.

Regards,
Tim

[monstermetal]

I have a 6 inch post vise that I picked up last year and it is missing the mounting bracket and spring. So I want to forge new parts for it as it will be in my shop and I want the parts to be forged not fabricated. This seems like a pretty straight forward operation, Take a piece of stock that is the appropriate size, slit and drift a hole then flatten the other side. My other thought was to create the slot by folding a piece of bar stock over then forge welding it, but this would not require a piece of stock with enough material to do the flatting on the side that bolts down. I did have another vise that was split and spread out into a Y shape to bolt down, so that is an option as well.

I think this one may be drop forged

I think I would try and punch/slit drift first... I think that would result in a better looking part...

[Toreus]

Please see next post: file attachment got corrupted on this one somehow.

[Toreus]

If you don't NEED to stick with the original bracket, wedges and attach plate, you can simply bend a piece of flat stock into a "U" shape to fit around the main post of the vise, and then twist the tips of the "U" 90 degrees and punch/drill holes to attach to a flat surface. The length of the piece of flat stock should be about 6 times the width of the main post of your vise.

[Timothy Miller]

I forged one this summer out of solid stock. I used 1.5" by 1.5" square mild steel about 6 " long. I punched a rectangular hole and drifted it to size. I fullered a grove and spread out the other half of the bar. It took only about an hour to make. It looked about the same as your picture. You could forge weld it but I have a power hammer so forging it from solid seemed easier. If you could get your hands on some good quality wrought iron I would use that instead of steel as it will be a lot easier to forge and weld if you have to do it by hand.

[Timothy Miller]

If you don't NEED to stick with the original bracket, wedges and attach plate, you can simply bend a piece of flat stock into a "U" shape to fit around the main post of the vise, and then twist the tips of the "U" 90 degrees and punch/drill holes to attach to a flat surface. The length of the piece of flat stock should be about 6 times the width of the main post of your vise.

But how do you tighten the vise to the post?

[Toreus]

But how do you tighten the vise to the post?

For something similar attached to a steel plate, I drilled the holes in the plate at the far side of the bracket holes- the bolts needed a few taps with the hand, but it seemed snug enough. The vise leg was hanging in air (plate was on a metal post), so I drilled a hole in a 2x4 so the leg would fit snugly, haven't had a problem since.

Alternately, I guess you could put a shim between the vise leg and the post- when my vise stand got loose I macguyver'd one and it worked fine- but that doesn't seem like an ideal solution.

Hm.. now that you've got me reflecting, the more think about it, the more I realize that it's really situational- can't use on a wooden table with a weak edge, etc. The more you know... Thanks!

[fciron]

With the strap mount you need to punch slots in the sides and then secure the vise the same way you do in the block; with wedges.

[pkrankow]

A weak edge on the table and your wedges keep popping loose. I am sure because of my experience with a weak (well, more like springy) wooden table edge.

Phil

[bigfootnampa]

But, as fciron was trying to say, punch slots in the straps behind the vise and in front of the flats and then wedge the vise and spring in tightly with a tapered wedge (or two wedges with opposing tapers if you like). Mine came like that. I had to make my own wedge though. The table edge will not be involved.

[John B]

But, as fciron was trying to say, punch slots in the straps behind the vise and in front of the flats and then wedge the vise and spring in tightly with a tapered wedge (or two wedges with opposing tapers if you like). Mine came like that. I had to make my own wedge though. The table edge will not be involved.

Will these help ?





Or just use these wedges in the slot

[clinton]

Ok I got some work done on this yesterday, I started out with a piece of mild steel bar stock that was 1 inch x 2 inch 5 inches long. I re-sized one side to 1 3/4 (the size of the leg on my vise) then I used a fuller to separate under the powerhammer just like southshore said and spread out the material using fullering dies on the powerhammer. then came the fun part slitting and drifting I forged a slitting chisel using a piece of 4140 it held up ok but it did get tweaked before I got all the way through, I worked from both sides when slitting. Then I used a drift forged from 1085 that held up nice.
I need to make matching holes in the collar and forge the wedges today, and punch holes for the bolts. Here are a couple of pics it not doubt looks forged, a little rough I may do some clean up work on it today

[clinton]

I forged one this summer out of solid stock. I used 1.5" by 1.5" square mild steel about 6 " long. I punched a rectangular hole and drifted it to size. I fullered a grove and spread out the other half of the bar. It took only about an hour to make. It looked about the same as your picture. You could forge weld it but I have a power hammer so forging it from solid seemed easier. If you could get your hands on some good quality wrought iron I would use that instead of steel as it will be a lot easier to forge and weld if you have to do it by hand.

Well it took a bit longer than an hour for me and yes wrought iron would have been a good idea, I had a message form a generous member on this site that offered to ship me a piece, I may take up that offer and try it again this one came out a little rough.

[Frank Turley]

You've got some good answers. As one responder suggested, the placement of the slot(s) must be just right. The slot must extend a little into the fixed leg, or you won't have anything to wedge against. I learned a while back that the key that precedes the wedge may be called a "jib key."

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

[Timothy Miller]

I took a picture of the one I made. All you need to do is go over your mount with a flatter and re drift it after each pass. Its just a little rough.

[bigfootnampa]

See what fciron and I are trying to say, though, is that you can skip the mount altogether and just make the legs of the collar longer and twist them inboard of the slots so that the longer ends lie flat on the bench and then punch the mount holes directly in the collar ends. Ones that I see done this way they usually have also curled the ends on the flat way so that you get a wider stance... that isn't necessary though. That way the collar functions as both collar and mount... good idea to make it a little heavier to accommodate it's dual function.

[clinton]

I did some more work on the mount yesterday and it looks better now. I just need to make the jib key and wedge and make holes in the collar.

[clinton]

I took a picture of the one I made. All you need to do is go over your mount with a flatter and re drift it after each pass. Its just a little rough.

Looks good southshore I like the square bolts too, thanks for the advise, it was a little rough got it looking better now, can't wait to put this vise into service I have been using a wimpy 4 1/2 inch

[ThomasPowers]

Columbian vises used the "angle iron and U bolt" mounting method. Simple to replicate and if you get wide flange angle iron you can dress it up a bit by ornamental trimming...

[Timothy Miller]

I think he wants to go threw the exercise of duplicating the original part to expand his skills.

[ThomasPowers]

I think that more people than just him will read this thread and they may profit from other options.

[Timothy Miller]

He was asking how to make a particular part and how he should go about making it. There are many options to solve this problem as many of us know. The guy only got two responses actually supporting what he was tiring to do. Many of the other posts were basically don't bother its too much work take this short cut. This is a tricky part to make, I admire his efforts and its pure forge work. I'm sorry if I seem like a jerk but Im just passionate about blacksmithing and old tools. I have seen dozens of nice old vices trashed by uncaring owners who would not take the smallest effort to properly fix something. Ill shut up now and take my beating.

[Conrad Hodson]

I have a 6 inch post vise that I picked up last year and it is missing the mounting bracket and spring. So I want to forge new parts for it as it will be in my shop and I want the parts to be forged not fabricated. This seems like a pretty straight forward operation, Take a piece of stock that is the appropriate size, slit and drift a hole then flatten the other side.


I had the same problem; post vises have often come loose from their mounting gear in their travels. However, I found an entirely different way to mount them.

If you have a dirt floor in your work area, consider sinking a section of telephone pole or equivalent log about 3 feet deep. I got a seven foot section of pole from the line crew who were working down the street from my house. If you ask nicely, they'll usually even cut it to whatever length you like. Bury it so the top is about elbow height, or whatever depending on how long the leg on your vise is.

If you mount your vise to a post instead of to a workbench, there are several advantages. The post is solider than any workbench except a built-in one. The height adjustment is less tricky, since you have dirt below. (You'll want to make a foundation plate of some kind--I drilled a hole in an old railroad tie plate.)
Most important, you have more than 180 degree access to the vise. The first time you make a complex 3D bend in a long workpiece, or use the vise to hold some tangle of old machinery you're working on, you will really appreciate the difference!

The mounting hardware is just two lengths of strap stock, 2 inches wide or so. The rear one is just an arc to fit a little less than half the post, with a couple of bent-out tabs that you can drill or punch for husky bolts. The front one is the same, but longer stock to accomodate the squarish jog you put in the middle. This jog is made to be a snug fit on the back leg of the vise. Be sure each section goes less than halfway around the post, so there's a gap for the bolts to take up. For the same reason, have the jog be slightly too shallow for the vise leg as it is positioned near the post. Adjust the tabs so they are parallel, and draw them together with bolts, 5/8 or better. Lock washers are a good idea, what with all the jarring that happens when you pound on work in the vise.

The same idea can be used for a "portable" vise for events and such. The base and post can be heavy plywood (like the 1-inch plus stuff they use for subflooring) with a log coming up from it, or pipe welded to a steel plate.

Try it out--you might like it as much as I do. Especially if you ever do bending, scrolling, salvage or repairs.

Conrad Hodson

[pkrankow]

stuart loves shortcuts, sometimes they are the road least travelled but most enjoyed

Sometimes the shortcut takes longer, regardless of how well traveled the road or how satisfying the experience is.

Phil