JimsShip Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Looks Great! I need to look into the electrolysis bath thing. I've always had to sand everything...again....and again....and again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 Did the electrolysis get the rust out of the inside of the tube? Nope, didn't do anything on the inside, I scraped on that by hand. I was going to try a cylinder hone to clean up the inside, but figured it would just get dirty again anyways. Electrolysis is said to be more of a "line of sight" process, meaning if the surface isn't looking at the sacrificial electrodes around the tank, or relatively close, it doesn't get cleaned near as much. But you can change the position of your parts if need be to get it all cleaned. The more I think about it, if you ran one straight piece of rigid wire through the center of the air tube and used some rubber or PVC spacers to prevent it from direct shorting to the air tube, you could clean the inside as well......didn't even cross my mind :)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Nevermind. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 That seems to be a bit more trouble than it's worth! Looks like sanding may be the easier option (for me at least!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 Finally found a little time to get some metal cut. The overall fire pot dimensions turned out to be 13" long x 9-1/2" wide x 4-1/2" deep. Planning on welding it up tonight, then have a 1" wide x 1/8" thick flange to weld around the upper edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 Got the pot welded up, still needs some dressing. Will be welding the outter lip on tonight and cutting the holes for the tuyere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Getting closer, still needs some cleaning up. Hopefully the tuyere gets installed tonight, if time permits. I used 1" x 1/8" bar stock for the lip to minimize the step it will cause on the hearth table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricS Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Looks great so far!! The fire pot look very similar to mine. I built a triangular clinker breaker and use it withe peak of the triangle facing up. This allows me to have a concentrated fire and good fire control. Here is a link to some picks from my build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Finally making some progress. Still has to be painted tonight, need to install the air tube clamps, and install the permanent hardware. I made two air outlets for the tuyere, I imagine the slotted one will have to be remade since I got a little carried away with the slot sizes, it moves a ton of air with little effort. I also made one that has a single 3/4" hole in it, found that from a thread on here from another guy's forge. I found some 10", solid rubber tires w/ spoke rims and Northern tool.....so they'll have to do for now. I used 1" x 2" x 1/4" for the upper table frame, went with 1-1/2" x 0.88" wall HREW tubing for the initial legs, then slid 1-3/4" x 0.120" DOM over top of them. Used 1-1/8" x 1/8" angle for intermediate supports, 14 GA. for the upper and lower surfaces, and 1-1/2" x1-1/2" x 1/4" for the blower mount. The table is very stout, yet with the blower acting as a counter-weight, it rolls easily out into gravel and over rough spots. I have to get the cart up to about 45 degrees before it wants to tip toward the blower. I rolls so easily that I decided to eliminate the folding handles for now. The work deck is 36" x 24" and the surface is 33" tall. I'm getting ready to start on my anvil tripod stand, which will put the anvil striking surface at 32" tall. Since I'll be working on smaller, ornate projects, I believe these heights will work well for me. I decided to mount the wheels inboard, to avoid having to work around them. I can comfortably stand in front of the forge and turn the blower crank handle with my left hand without moving around any, so that should work fairly well......pays off being ambidextrous in this instance :)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 You might want a rim around part of the table to help keep fuel on it. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 You might want a rim around part of the table to help keep fuel on it. Phil OK. Like maybe on the long side opposite of the blower crank handle and on the blower end? That would keep the short end opposite of the blower and the side I'll be standing on free. Are you thinking 1" angle lip, or taller? Or maybe 1-1/2" angle all the way around the perimeter with a notch down on the front where I'll be standing? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 About 1 inch tall would be fine. I would make it go from the rim of the firepot, around the front end to the rim of the firepot on the other side. This way it captures the extra fuel on the table, and won't interfere with long stock going into the fire. I would also consider making it removable. Something else that might be nice are hinged stock rests on the sides for long stock. I saw some made of rod on a cast forge, but can't find the picture. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 That looks awesome, i'm a bit jealous! I need to make a cart for mine, I have to lift and carry every time i forge! You may also want to consider a rail along the sides for tongs and tools. I think if I were to build one i would include that as well as a small bucket area for small items (brushes, files and drifts, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 I ended up using some 2" x 3/16" bar stock to make a lip around the hearth top. Even though I don't see myself doing work with long pieces, I still dipped the lip on each side to allow for pass-through. Also made a tool rack on the end with 1/2" round bar. I'm sure there will be changes down the road, but for my first forge to get me started this should do for now. I'm going to paint it tonight and then get started on my anvil stand. I really appreciate all of the input from you guys, it definitely got me thinking in the right direction. I can't wait to meet up with some local blacksmiths and also get to take some classes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Might be the last forge you need, that is mighty nice. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 WOW! I'm more of a gasser guy but I do appreciate a nice fabrication of any sort and you have made a very nice forge! Now fire that baby up and have some fun!! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 After a few hours of painting I finally got her all finished up. I am going to go back and make a weighted ash dump gate and fabricate an ash pan that will sit on the lower shelf.....next week's project, I need a few days off. I picked up an exhaust rain flap at Tractor Supply today that should work good for an ash gate after a little tweeking. Time to get it dirty now :)! The final product - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndersMJ Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 There's even room for a toolbox on the shelf underneath the table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Well........so much for resting! I ran across a post yesterday (I believe by Frosty) that mentioned using an exhaust rain flapper cap for an ash gate.....that was all it took to get the gears moving. I picked up an 2-3/4" exhaust cap for around $10 at the local Tractor Supply and took it home to start chopping. I knew the correct way for me to make a counter balance weight would be to cap a short section of DOM pipe.....but I was feeling a little lazy, so I started looking around the shop and found an old sheet metal dolly that would be perfect with a little massaging. I never really liked that particular dolly, so it was chosen to take on for the team :). Drilled a 1/2" hole in the counterweight after the cutting and grinding was complete. I bent a piece of 1/2" hot rolled bar stock on the bender station and then went to work. It has a good tight shut-off, no matter how fast I turn the blower there's no air leakage and it closes on it's own from the full open position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 I actually like one that you can set partially open for some tasks---like using charcoal or an electric blower where you may need to waste excess air. So mine swivels side to side, not nearly a s "nice" as yours but it's worked for 25 years so far. I'd suggest forging a counterweight into a rose or dragon head to show off your forging on your forge a bit more over your very nice welding... I never consider a forge "done" until it's given, sold or scrapped---always thinking up new tweaks or design additions. (Probably why we tend to build our own---having someone do it for us would probably result in mayhem after the umpity-ump design change request...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 I actually like one that you can set partially open for some tasks---like using charcoal or an electric blower where you may need to waste excess air. So mine swivels side to side, not nearly a s "nice" as yours but it's worked for 25 years so far. I'd suggest forging a counterweight into a rose or dragon head to show off your forging on your forge a bit more over your very nice welding... I never consider a forge "done" until it's given, sold or scrapped---always thinking up new tweaks or design additions. (Probably why we tend to build our own---having someone do it for us would probably result in mayhem after the umpity-ump design change request...) Yeah I hear ya, I figured I would slowly replace my fabricated pieces and parts with forged parts. Since I'm a newbie and haven't ever used a forge, it's kind of a chicken and egg thing right now......gotta have a forge (and knowledge/skill) to do forge work. I'm facing the same dilemma with making a handle for my shovel and water can, I plan to bend and weld now and then forge new handles later when I'm able. It's definitely an inefficient approach, but it's all I've got at this moment. Practically everything I've ever bought in my life I've modified in one way or another......so I just learned over time that I might as well build everything I can myself. Blacksmithing abilities would make things that much easier to build. I was thinking about all the things I do now that would be so much easier with hot metal, the mechanical approach to things can get costly with consumables factored in, plus I've wanted to learn the art of blacksmithing for years.....and at the young age of 43 I'm finally going to take the plunge......no time like the present I suppose. I'm currently trying to network with local blacksmith groups and also have some formal classes planned for later in the year. As soon as I get my anvil stand finished up (hopefully next week) and get my post vice mounted I should be set up to start learning. I already have a small collection of tongs, hammers, hardies, etc. built up, have a decent stock of metal to work with, and have a 50 lb bag of coal to get me started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56FordGuy Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hey, neighbor! The forge looks great. I'm preparing to build my first one, I've gleaned a lot of information from your build. Just wanted to say thanks for the photos, they really helped to see how you were doing things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken G Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Great looking forge. You really did a nice job fixing it all up. Thanks for posting all the pics. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hey, neighbor! The forge looks great. I'm preparing to build my first one, I've gleaned a lot of information from your build. Just wanted to say thanks for the photos, they really helped to see how you were doing things. Good to see some other people in my area getting into blacksmithing! After seeing how fine the coal is that I bought, I decided to make another tuyere cover with one of my spare caps. This one is an array of 1/4" holes that still moves a lot of air with very little input, so hopefully it will work with the finer coal. I believe that I'm all set up to start learning. I'm planning on attending classes at the John C. Campbell Folk School in the next few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd&mlteach Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Wow, nice job with the forge build. I really appreciate your pictures, it shows your design abilities as well as your fabrication skills. You forge reminds me a lot of the one I put together a couple of years ago, as I went through nearly the same processes. Last summer I redid the firepot and tried a welded one, similar to yours and it has been my best move yet. Before I had a flagpole base. I modified an old firepot that I bought with the blower originally. The top was really beat up and not worht anything so I welded a new top and kept everything under close to the same. It has really improved the forge absolutely and I love it. I only have one comment or question for you and that relates to your tuyere. Please let me know how that works out, you know, do you like it or not? I have made a couple of forges and guided a couple of forges into life with my students since my build (see simple brake drum forge below) and I always try to keep the bottom of the firepot flat to aid in moving fuel around and cleaning out. I noticed that your design utilizes a steel end cap that has been perforated for air flow. It might be easier to do it your way and I would like to know how it goes. Right now we mostly do the brake drum forges and I have the kids cut out circles out of ¼ inch plate and drill holes. I know brake drums are not the best but it never fails somebody can find them free and well free is good. Anyway, it takes them a bit of time for fitting the tuyere and the more time they take putting it together -the less time they can use the thing at school with me guiding them. Therefore, I am always looking for new ways to build these things cheaper and faster -that end cap may be a new way to go, if it does not cause you too much trouble. Keep me posted , good work, and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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