Jump to content
I Forge Iron

AndersMJ

Members
  • Posts

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AndersMJ

  1. Not allowing yourself to make mistakes. It's human nature to make mistakes. When you make a mistake in my book, (which is inevitable) you learn that you should do it differently another time. Trying to do everything perfectly the first time and from then on, everytime is just not gonna do anyone any good. Surgeons make mistakes on humans - it's not the end of the world if a blacksmith does it on a piece of steel...
  2. One shouldn't be chipping at the slag though, but rather raking it. Chipping away at it will most likely cause dents in the weld.
  3. I wasn't speaking the case that one should lift his shoulder, the opposite in fact. That was the whole point in the beer bottle/newspaper thingy under the arm. Of course no one forges with this tucked under there but it's to prove a point....
  4. I think you're taking it too literally. I don't think he actually did put it under there but it's to prove a point. I never said he was right, I just stated what he said so please drop the attitude. This guy says the same thing, but with beer bottles instead and he's a blacksmith. (the video is in Danish so you'll have to take my word for it or get another Dane to confirm)
  5. I was told by an old boilermaker at my school who apparently had done some anvil work too, that you should place a rolled up newspaper in your armpit and when hammering it should stay there. Which in practice means you'd have to lift the hammer with either a wrist motion, an elbow motion, or a combination.
  6. There's even room for a toolbox on the shelf underneath the table.
  7. I see. I'm all for use of hand tools btw so I'm glad to see that.
  8. No worries mate. ;) There must be a lot of hammer marks on the blade after you've hammered it into shape? Do you just use a flatter to make it more plain looking? Or a flap disk or what? Thanks for showing this, much appreciated since my interest lies especially with knives, axes and tools.
  9. That is a beautiful piece, the lines are carefully crafted. Could you do a video on how you make something like that from block of steel to finished hawk? And if not that, perhaps a series of images?
  10. Does anyone know? It's priced at around 650 bucks and it says in the text it's 80-100 kgs. http://www.guloggrat...images=1#images
  11. I've been wearing clogs for about 20 years. I wear this model: Rubber sole and heel with kevlar toe. It's my most comfortable footwear to date, I even wear them when shopping for groceries. Many people here in Denmark wear them, especially here in southern Jutland, farmers especially.
  12. I've bookmarked this thread. Very inspiring indeed.
  13. Couldn't agree more, hence I created this as a new topic just to be sure. I considered calling the chimney sweeper to look at it (he's gonna see it anyway next time he inspects the house chimney) and his general opinion about it. :)
  14. Thanks for all the replies to everyone. Like I wrote I am gonna get a CO detector for sure.
  15. I guess it's safe to say that if all the smoke is going out then the CO is too?
  16. That's way cool. This is just the type of knife I like, scandi/sami style. No. 2,3,5 and 6 that is. :) The last one is especially cool, it would make a good utility/bird and trout sort of blade.
  17. I think a person can learn something from all smiths around the world, no matter if it's in a high tech shop or a Nepalese kami forging kukris on a piece of RR track. (I bet he could teach most western world smiths a thing or two and vice versa).
  18. Probably 50' x 25'. My shop area right now is approx. 10' x 10'. Walls are probablt 7-8'.
  19. Haha too clean. It doesn't look like the typical blacksmith shop with metal and tools everywhere no, but I'm pretty confined to that corner so it's limited how much I can actually stuff in there. Thing is my dad and I were cleaning up the barn completely. I plan to make smaller ornamental pieces to start with and then progressing to knives and axes later. No wrought iron gates here right now hehe. basically things that doesn't require heat treating. Just normalize and done.
  20. Thanks for the quick responses both of you. Just realised, I wrote 'carbon dioxide alarm'. Should have read 'carbon monoxide alarm'. :)
  21. I'm almost done with my chimney and all that. The three things to look out for is 1) carbon monoxide, 2) carbon dioxide and 3) smoke, as far as I can read. The carbon dioxide I reckon will be no problem because my shop is so ventilated by small holes everywhere and I plan to keep the sliding door half open. My question now is, the smoke and carbon monoxide is supposed to leave through the chimney... Since the carbon monoxide is odorless and invisible it is what have me most worried. Is it in the smoke or what, cause if it is I guess it's safe to say that if ALL the smoke leaves, then the CO does too...? Also I plan to buy a carbon dioxide alarm for the shop before lighting for the first time. Does it matter where this is placed? Hope someone can shed some light on this.
  22. The barn was a mess before this. We cleaned it up, swept the floor and you could almost do surgery in there now. I know what you're saying though, a lot of the blacksmith shops you see around has all sorts of metal everywhere. Organised chaos is ok in my book and it's actually quite charming imo to have that rural, old school, dark blacksmith shop.
  23. I think it's also worth to consider that just because you purchase something for a relatively high price, doesn't mean it's actually more expensive. It might last a lot longer and be of better quality than something cheaper.
  24. The height of the forge table is about 32". I'm not at my parents right now and can't remember the exact dimensions but an estimate would be 28" x 36". It's quite heavy for one man but doable if need be. I plan to just place some bricks on either side of the fire pot to contain the coal. And then remove them if I need to place some iron through the hearth.
×
×
  • Create New...