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I Forge Iron

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Posted

I found this today on my 110#ish HB anvil. I would like to know how bad this is. I am pretty sure it can be classified as 'other than good.' The crack runs from the hardy hole towards the heel. I felt it when I reached under the anvil to move it out of the bright sunlight and into the shade again. I hope this isn't in a catastrophic failure. It is certainly beyond my personal capability to repair.

HardieHolecrack.jpg

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

Posted

Two tips, well three really.

Firstly, try to shine a bright light into the crack and to see if you can determine how old the rust is inside the crack. If the rust and deep part of the crack looks old, then it has proved it can take it.

Second, rub a bit of chalk around the hardy hole to see if there are any more cracks. Also rub the chalk around the crack as far as the crack goes to see if it is longer then it apears to be.

Thirdly, your picture is a bit out of focus, one that is in focus would really help in the diagnosis.

Caleb Ramsby

Posted

Is your HB a "solid wrought"? If it is it may be a weld showing since you say this is the underside of the heel. Does the heel still sound right? I agree with Thomas.

Phil

Posted

looks like typical forge crack, I seem to remember one on my 148lb peter Wrifht in the same area but maybe smaller. I will try and remember to look at it when I get home and maybe post a pic if it is as I remember.

Posted

It is under the heel. The heel still sounds good - rings about the same as the front end of the table and the horn, just in a slightly different key.

Total length of the crack is about 3/4", looks to be at least 1/4" deep, maybe a bit deeper, and there is a patina in there. Not quite the same as the underside of the heel, but it does look to have been there awhile and I just haven't noticed it.

I looked for a 'solid wrought' marking on the anvil, and couldn't find any such thing anywhere, and the serial #, if there is one, is under the strapping holding it down.

Here is what I hope to be a better pic. It is comforting to hear that the initial opinion is that this might not be a catastropic failure.

HardycrackII.jpg

Posted

I wouldn't worry about it too much. I WOULD mark it (just with paint) and you now have a couple good pictures so you can check it in 6 months or a year if it changes any. It is a pretty wide crack to have just happened.

I would probably not do any more heavy upsetting in the hardy hole, if you have in the past. I would not make any other changes how I used it unless something changes.

Phil

Posted
I wouldn't worry about it too much. Phil



I wouldn't worry about it either. But would you discount the value of this anvil if you were buying it?

Bob
Posted
I wouldn't worry about it either. But would you discount the value of this anvil if you were buying it? Bob


I would probably try talking the price down some on this defect.

Phil
Posted

" is you HB a solid wrought ? "

Wasn't aware there were any other kind but I do miss things. I myself would pass on the anvil unless it was CHEAP. To each his own. Let's be perfectly clear though. I HAVE anvils. Were this my first I might haggle for it yes.

Posted

Drilling a hole to stop the crack isn't something I had thought of. I will consider it, but shan't act rashly.

If I had seen the crack before I bought it, I might not have. This is my first and only anvil, so I'm happy with it for now.

I'm saving my pennies for an upgrade one of these days, but we'll burn that bridge when we cross it.

Posted

If you find you need to make hardy tools, and need to upset them, it is pretty easy (time consuming perhaps) to make a bolster plate. Measure your existing hole carefully, then layout on a heavy piece of steel the dimensions (typically a standard sized square, but often not) If your hardy is particularly off shape/size you may want to make the bolster regular to the larger dimension, and grind/or file to fit your anvil. Drill a hole to remove most of the metal, or drill 4 smaller holes. use a cold chisel ground to cut one side, and a diamond point chisel to clean out the hole, then file. In 1 inch mild steel plate this will take about an hour, probably more for your first one.

There is a Mark Aspery video on youtube showing this.

Phil

Posted

I wouldn't drill a stop unless the crack grows. Mark it and check every once in a while. Covering it with a layer of enamel paint is a good way to tell if a crack is growing or one develops as paint has no flex and will flake if a crack develops or grows. Use a paint that dries HARD. Use a mirror to check it so you don't have to turn it over for a good look.

Frosty The Lucky.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

the 125 pound HB i have has one, except it is facing towards the base, anvil has seen hard use, and you can tell by patina it is as old as the anvil, Im guessing it happend when the punched the hole

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