12345678910 Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Welders Is there a process that I can use to join W1 drill rod, to 6061 aluminium? I am considering Loctite bearing and sleeve retaining compound, but I would prefer a better fusion. I have a DC arc welder and oxy torch available. What I have in mind is solder or brazing and relatively low temp to avoid a heat affected zone on the drill rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Why??? Your intended purpous??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12345678910 Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Unfortunately, I'm unable to reveal the final application. Loctite would likely work, but I want the overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Press or shrink fit. Thread or other mechanical fastener. Groove cut around the steel part and the aluminum cast around the steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 I would probably want a press or shrink fit, ideally. Since the two materials expand and contract with temperature at different rates this may make for one way being more complex than the other, as far as which material is on the outside. Dry ice can make for a good size change. Jnewman is faster at typing than me apparently Pinning or threading a stud in will make it better resist rotation or pulling out. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 "Unfortunately, I'm unable to reveal the final application." That don't sound good. :ph34r: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Explosive welding. EMRTC at NM Tech can probably do it for you though the price of explosives has risen over the years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12345678910 Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Press fit was what I had in mind + loctite. But I would trust a solder joint more than loctite If it was possible, less work than the extra machine steps of pinning or threads. Also considering pins, tapered pins, roll pins, set screws. Explosive welding. EMRTC at NM Tech can probably do it for you though the price of explosives has risen over the years! It probably wouldn't help keeping it all straight and flat either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 J.B. weld and duct tape, fix it right up ,you bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 A proper press or shrink fit involves putting a shaft SLIGHTLY larger than the hole into the hole often less than .001". You should not need any locktite if you use this method. Generally it requires fairly tight tolerances so if you don't have machining facilities it may not be the way to go. The exception for the tight tolerances is if the walls around the hole are thin enough that they will stretch. I have a product where I press fit a 3/8" pipe(.493") over 1/2" round bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iammarkjones Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 J.B. weld and duct tape, fix it right up ,you bet. +1 for jb weld and press fit combo, I don't know of any thermal process the will join aluminum and steel. I am Making the huge assumption that w1 refers to a steel rod.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I would thread the drill rod and tap the aluminium. But I envision the aluminium not being strong enough to support it. Sort of like a steel post stuck in the dirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12345678910 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I would thread the drill rod and tap the aluminium. But I envision the aluminium not being strong enough to support it. Sort of like a steel post stuck in the dirt. That's in my mind too. If I just went all steel soldering would be trouble free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Is there a specific reason you are committed to aluminum mating to steel? If it simplifies life to eliminate the dissimilar metals, then do so. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12345678910 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Al for the lighter weight and easier machining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Now you didn't say it needed to be nice and flat now did you? If you don't provide the NECESSARY details you can't complain later! (well you can this is the internet after all...) They have used explosive welding for naval ships where they want a steel hull but an Al superstructure. So an explosively welded transition piece where Steel welders can weld on one end and Al welders and weld on the other is quite handy. If the design supports it a press fit of Al over a knurled steel shaft can be quite strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcostello Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Wonder if that miracle rod that solders to Aluminum would stick to Brass? If it did thin coat of braze could be assembled to steel, pressed in then finished with magic rod. Or am I in left field? Would not be first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 How about weld or silver braze a thinwall steel sleeve onto the Wi, make the sleeve/W1 assembly the full length of the part and then fill the sleeve with a press fitted aluminum bar . Strong and light, and since the aluminum is just a filler the press fit would not have to be as structural. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Another more complyant plan would be to bore the end of the aluminum bar, turn a boss on the the W1 that would fit into that bore hole. Drill and tap both the bore hole and the boss end. Connect the two with a stainless steel all thread using your locktight. Sure would be nice to have some idea of scale and load/strength requirements. Is the reason for using aluminum the need to be non magnetic ? Are the pieces cylindrical, or forged shapes, something else. This would make a great parlor game for machinists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Shoo Goo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Shoo Goo Please elaborate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 OR use Titanium for the weight issues, ( and we can help you bond Ti to Steel ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Use this product to join the pieces together. I have repaired car door handles that are made of pot metal and can not be welded. I used this to attach a piece of redwood for a handle on a big cleaver that I made about 15 years ago and it is still holding. Get both pieces clean and let it set for a good 24 hours before moving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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