buffing wheels and compounds

[Talon Tex Overland]

hey yall been a while since my last post. Was wondering if any of ya'll knew what type of buffing wheel combined with what particular compound gave the smoothest finish on a blade? sisal, muslin, felt, loose or sewed?

[ThomasPowers]

Yes; or it depends you can get a mirror finish with a lot of different set ups however some will blur grind lines quite easily---like black compound on a sisal wheel. Others will preserve lines IF you are quite good at buffing like green chrome on a hard felt wheel.

Not knowing if you are even working with stainless or plain high carbon steels it's rather hard to make a good suggestion.

(sometimes you want some smoothing on some types of blades, other times that wrecks them!)

[Rich Hale]

Fpr Stainless steel blades I did a comprehensive bp # 0235 if I remember correctly that gave all of my favorites for roiugh finish to mirror including all of the belts used and the buffs and compounds.Since that is delayed in being again visible, for carbon and ss blades i use belts to about 1000 or 1200 grit and make sure I remove all rougher grit scratches. Then I use matchless green compound on a loose 8" muslin buff on 1750 rpm motor, Then I finish with no scratch pink for final shine.

[Rich Hale]

Thomas reminded us about blurring grind lines with too coarse or too much buffing. I use fine belts to maintain the lines I established with coarser belts, and limit my total buffing time with both compounds,,,on seperate wheels, to just a few minutes. If you have all of the scratches removed it does not take long to buff.

[Rich Hale]

OK so I am draggin this on and on! The buffer is the second most dangerous thing in my shop. If you are buffing and the piece gets loose it is a missile! at that point it seems to seek out ways to make something bleed. Keep that in mind before during and after buffing.

[Timothy Miller]

I do a whole load of buffing though I don't make knives. I make silversmith stakes and hammers. I find if the object has an edge or a sharp corner it can easily catch on the wheel and go flying. Also never buff above the center line of the buffing wheel. If the object is rounded buffing is a fairly safe activity. The proper sanding belt grit progression is actually more important than the buffing compound. There is no substitute of going threw all the grits in proper order. Good light is important as well. Many experienced polishers use a torso pad to guard their belly and chest. I have seen several buffing related accidents over the years lucky no one was permanently harmed though at the time it was very upsetting.

[MattBower]

I've thought about buying an old flak jacket to wear while buffing and grinding. Seems like it might be overkill . . . but then again . . .

[son_of_bluegrass]

I've thought about buying an old flak jacket to wear while buffing and grinding. Seems like it might be overkill . . . but then again . . .

The flak jackets that were in use when I was in (got out in 01) wouldn't stop a sharp edge, they were designed to stop shrapnel (can be sharp but oddly shaped) and slow bullets, knives went through them easily. Also the ones with kevlar may not do much as the kevlar used degrades over time. Some padding and a full leather apron would likely do more than an old flak jacket.

ron

[Glenn]

Consider an additional catch or deflection guard on the grinder or buffer. If the wheel catches on a piece of metal you do not want it thrown back at you.

Real men wear leather, and aprons , , , , and leather aprons. It is all about being safe.

[ThomasPowers]

Trauma plates?

[Talon Tex Overland]

I just wear a heavy leather apron when im buffing, and a pair of turtleskin stab gloves. I got a great big chunk out of my belt buckle from where a buffin wheel ripped a knife out of my hands and stuck it point first in my buckle.

I only work in carbon steel, and i use a 1500grit 3m sanding belt before i buff it. But i still cant get all those micro scratches out, and I dont know if its from the belt, or if maybe im using to coarse of a buffing compound or what. right now im using a general purpose white rouge i got from jantz, but was wondering if the green chrome or the pink scratchless would work any better.

Also trying to figure out a way to use a 72" belt on a 48" grinder, because jantz has a 4500 grit belt but its only for 72"

[MattBower]

The flak jackets that were in use when I was in (got out in 01) wouldn't stop a sharp edge, they were designed to stop shrapnel (can be sharp but oddly shaped) and slow bullets, knives went through them easily. Also the ones with kevlar may not do much as the kevlar used degrades over time. Some padding and a full leather apron would likely do more than an old flak jacket. ron

I got out a year before you. I wouldn't have trusted those PASGT flaks to stop any bullet you'd encounter on a modern battlefield, despite the rumors that went around about them. But a blade flung by a buffer? Might not stop it entirely, but I suspect it'd limit penetration quite a bit.

Still, this would be an excellent excuse to make and wear a real, functional chain mail hauberk. lol

[Rich Hale]

The 1500 grit is finer than I use. I suspect you are not getting courser scratches out before that belt or your thought about the compound is spot on. What kind of buffing wheel and speed are you useing? Wot I suggested above will work for a heat treated blade. I get my wheels and compounds from K and G. After thought. You need a really good light to see scratches left over from other belts. At times even though I have great lights I step out into the sun to take a close look. If you still have a time google my website and send me an e mail I can more than likely help you with a mail or phone call.

[kevin1050]

Last thing I want to do is buff a blade out while wearing 45-50lbs of body armor. Bad enough humping that thru Iraq.

[pkrankow]

When hand sanding and polishing paying attention to direction and changing it by 45 or 90 degrees seems to help. I get all my scratches in the same direction, and none in the previous direction, then I move on to the next. Having a deep scratch can make a mess.

I have also noticed that HF greaseless compounds have odd large bits in them. I have noticed this largely in the black (emery), but also in the white.

Phil

[Rich Hale]

Phil I would be interested in seeing how that finish comes out the way you describe,,,do you have any pictures of your work?

[pkrankow]

This is a Wester Bros. Manganese Steel razor with bone scales that I have not dated accurately, I think it is from the 1930's. It was discolored and had areas of surface rust when I got it. I started with high grit sand paper (800, 1000), and moved to compounds on denim rag (Emery then Aluminum oxide). There were no power tools used, and I did not remove the scales. I probably spent about 4 hours on cleaning it, although on other forums it would be called a "restore".

One thing I DON'T like is this wiped out most of the scratch pattern from when it was originally ground.

It shaves nicely, but is not a perfect polish job, and has since discolored some from use.

Phil

[WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith]

The buffing wheel is about the most dangerous tool in the shop. It tends to grab stuff and throw it at you or across the shop. A better alternative it to use a disk grinder and mount a disk of shag bathroom carpet. It buffs well but does not have the tendency to grab and throw. Also a variable speed disk grinder is a plus and if buffing a knife you need to be able to buff both sides so reversable is needed. That ususually means a disk grinder with a VFD and 3 phase motor.

[Rich Hale]

Phil that for sure is a cool blade. I bet it was alot of work..I posted here as I use a buffer and the question was about buffing and compunds to use with it for the steel he is using. WE have had some mail back and forth to try and give him som emore thoughts he is not using hand methods. You thourhgt may help someone that does

[etech669]

I Did my apprenticeship making surgical instruments, loads of dangerous stuff to throw around the polishing room, Leather apron and a polisher fitted with a crash bar ( a steel pole mounted parallel with the polisher shaft about 2" directly below the wheel) if something does catch it spits it to the floor instead of across the shop. Generally i surface finish to 180grit max then into it with a 10"sisal wheel and grey fast cut compound alternating direction to remove required scratches. Then a loose calico mop with white compound also alternating direction and to finish off to mirror use the same mop with just a wipe of compound and gently feather you work piece off the edge of the buff in one direction this removes the grease smear and give you a high mirror finish. You can go the green but I've never felt it necessary unless I'm working with brass or copper. If a nice satin finish is what you're after or just want to shine up that hollow grind preserving the grind line as Phil said I use a 3M Scotchbrite wheel you can get different grades to give you that brushed finish, they're bloody expensive but they last forever if you're careful.

Cheers