macbruce Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 There are so many of these pearls of wisdom in our collective knowledge re PH's, presses, drills, grinders, hoists, forges, oxy/ace, sand blasting, on and on and on.............. I,m gonna see just how many I can list on the layout table alone. Safety can't be excluded cause things that make the shop more efficient will very often lead to just that....... When you're done with your layout clear everything but what you need to do the project.This is especially important if you use solvents lacquer thinner (nothing works better to remove silver pencil marks) and others. Strike an arc or melt a hole in the in the jug/can and it's off to the races......... If you're working with delicate instruments ie caliphers, tapes, rulers, levels, etc make a small roll around cart to get em out of harm's way when not in use, Striking an arc or if something heavy falls on them it's a bummer. make the cart lower than the table to store em so strait edges don't crash into it. If you weld clips on the table get rid of em asap after use....grind flush and don't gouge the table. Don't trim mig wire on the edge of the table by striking an arc, the little needles can hurt (my greatest sin) Standing on these things is unavoidable sometimes, so all the more reason to keep it as clear as possible.........A 32'' fall in any shop can ruin your day......I speak from experience Round the corners a bit, I prefer contusions to contusions an blood..... Make it as thick as you can within reason....... If you're using a plazma torch, oxy/ace or grinding to cut, try not to trash the table doing so......Clamp it Jeb! Add to this one or start another......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Make a mounting plate (bracket) that fits into the holes of an acorn or onto the side of a work table. Next build a shelf that is 24 inches above the table for all those delicate tools or stuff you do not want on the table. This way the shelf is mobile or removable if need be. If you are using plasma, cutting with ox/ac etc, you are producing HUGE VOLUMES of bad air. Vent the shop before you turn on the plasma. Both cutting devices produce a lot of scarf which gets on and into everything and acts like - well - metal dust, or sand. Consider building a catch pan for the underside of the table and an exhaust pipe to the outside. Also consider a catch pan for the sparks so you co not set something on fire. Install a outside security type light above the work table. Place floods lamps (100 watt) so you get good cross lighting on the work area. The security feature will activate when there is movement and turn off when you are not there (or take too long thinking about what to do next). For the acorn, select a pipe that will just fit into one of the holes. Plug weld one end and screw a coupling onto the other. The coupling will keep it from falling below the work surface. It should be about 12 inches long so it will hold your welding rods at the ready and keep them off the table. Nothing like reaching for another welding rod and finding the flux crushed and gone. The pipe can be moved to where ever it is needed. If you weld clips or dogs onto the table, only tack weld one side. That way when you want to remove the clip or dog, you can just bend it back on the weld and break it off. Grind the residual weld so to leave a flat surface. When grinding be observant as to where the sparks are going. They can travel 20 feet or more, as can the little bits of metal that is removed. They CAN set things on fire, or shower any one walking into the downrange area. Oh yes, those sparks will embed themselves INTO glass leaving it pitted or with pits of metal in the glass. Over the work table place a kitchen type pot holder or rack. Add electric plugs. This is great for hanging the tools most often used and keeping the electric cords out of the way. Just reach up and grab the tool (remembering to put it back when you finish). For some use S hooks and a extension cord with a spring hooked to the center of the cord to keep the cord up and out of the way. The spring will let the electric cord feed in and out as needed for use. For those that need to get up on the table, cut a 55 gallon drum at the first ring. You now have two steps, one 1/3 drum and another 2/3 drum in height. Lash a section of garden hose to the cut edge to protect you from getting cut and to keep the drum from sliding on the floor. No more 32 inch drops when getting down from the table, you just walk down the stairs (grin). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I don't have this feature on my table but saw a setup where the table had a hinged straight-edge on a long side and a short side (it was 4x8) and either or both could be swung up and locked so there was an instant edge or 90 corner. I do have a complete set of drawers fastened underneath my primary layout table with all sorts of supplies, including all of my rivets and most of my cutting tools. All are labeled so I can reach down and pull out lots of different items like chalk, tape, tri-square, etc. I also have a BIG Wilton vise on one corner. In addition, I made several mini-tables (like 4"x6") that clamp into the vise with a square stem and allow me to get close to the work and put clamps where I need to. One short side of my table has a long rod running along it so all of my vise grips can dangle within reach. I use a small step ladder rather than a barrel to climb on the table - just seems more stable to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 My fab table is 96" x 96" x 2-1/4" thick warship armour. the tabletop alone weighs 5,000 +lbs. I have welded 1" round bars 5/8" apart on the side of the table in three places for use in bending cold 1/2" square bar. As hard as I can pry, the table wont move. It is a fine surface for heating work with a rosebud , it won't warp or get hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 John at Gearhart Iron showed me this... If the welder is against the wall, and the bench is out in the floorspace, run a piece of 1/4 x 2 inch flatbar across the floor from the welder to the weld table. Bend both ends up, weld the piece to the leg of the table, and hook the ground lead to the other end.. One less cable to trip over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 My table is 1" tc 8' x 8' you know those adjustable shelf's that stores like Walmart use ? well I have a bunch from walmart redo I install 2 shelf units 2' w x 8' long 6' high @ the back of my welding table with 12 shelfs total on it ADJUSTABLE in hight :<) theres allsorts of storage room for tools project I am working - supplys & whatever best thing I ever did ! now most things are with in easy reach & I still have 6' x 8' table left to work on I also have made 4 roll around adjustabe shelf unit 7' tall can be moved anywhere needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 run a piece of 1/4 x 2 inch flatbar across the floor from the welder to the weld table. Bend both ends up, weld the piece to the leg of the table, and hook the ground lead to the other end.. One less cable to trip over. I have started another thread (http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/24588-arc-welding-and-your-vise/) to address the issue of the arc jumping from the vise to the work and causing small spot welds to carry the electric and pitting of the vise jaws or rotating plate. Please post your replies on this subject there so we can keep the subject of arcs and pitting all in one place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 One of my work benches has a slab of old laboratory soapstone benchtop on top of it's 2x6 face. Nice to have a fireproof but not too heat sucking surface handy to lay hot stuff on near the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 I wrote with a Presto white correction pen on the edge of my layout table, "A workbench is not a shelf." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 I've had my platten table for over 10 yrs now. I thought of this idea about 15 minutes after it got put into service, finally did it last month, and it's so nice! I made some 16 ga sheetmetal ramps, 2 per side, 4 total. I welded a receiver plate at each end of the table, that accepts 5/8 round stock, 2 pieces, side by side. I found some scrap pipe that fits over the 5/8 round, and cut it into 1 inch lengths. I welded the pipe to the sheet metal for a crude hinge. After assembly, I used some cheap C-clamps to hold the ramps at a 15 degree angle. Now all the grinding swarf, pencils, keys, nuts and bolts, etc. fall down on the ramp, and are easily swept out to the edge, instead of having to pick through the storage shelf below. There's truth in the addage," It's the little things". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Acorn with a storage shelf below? I thought that was where the lived. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fe Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have a lengh of 3" angle iron welded to the long edge of my work/layout/weld bench V side down and the outer leg of the angle iron level with the table top. Any small round thing that rolls off the table lands in the angle iron. Also a great place to hold your soap stones , pencils , nuts , bolt , rivits , tools etc. John Fe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Welcome John!..........Hmm, sounds like it would interfere with the use of clamps to me, I gotta clamp to the edges of the table. For all the nick nacks you mentioned a little roll around cart works for me.....to each his own...... B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 John at Gearhart Iron showed me this... If the welder is against the wall, and the bench is out in the floorspace, run a piece of 1/4 x 2 inch flatbar across the floor from the welder to the weld table. Bend both ends up, weld the piece to the leg of the table, and hook the ground lead to the other end.. One less cable to trip over. Another clever idea from john = welp pieces of 1" tube at different places under the table into wich you can slip in a seat(he made his from old tractor seats) you can move the seat to where you are working and/or for use when sharing single malt with friends. You can also make up trays that slip into these "mounting points" to hold your consumeables,parts etc. and then move the thays around no only the table but the whole shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Seelye Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I wrote with a Presto white correction pen on the edge of my layout table, "A workbench is not a shelf." Well said! I was reading this just thinking about the stuff on my 6' x6' table Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 When I get ready to do a new project I wipe it all down with a laquer thinner soaked rag to erase all the old silver pencil lines/marks. Then I drip maybe a thimble full of black paint pigment on the surface to darken the table on the second rubdown with the LT. This in no way inhibits grounding of the welder and leaves a good background for the new layout . This stuff really trashes your hands so I put on nitrate gloves when I do it...... The pigment is easy to get at any paint store that mixes custom colors, just bring allong a little jar and they'll fix you up for a few bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 i have a 2" receiver hitch mounted under the top on all four sides of my table that my grinder, a vise, bending jigs, round froms and ect.. can all be put into. then i have a rack made to hold all the 2" hitch tools. nice because the tools don't take up bench space easy to move and store out of the way. it is also nice that they all have 5/8" holes that are all in the same place for pinning the tool to the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 " a 2" receiver hitch "--------Huh! wats-that...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Thanks Matto, I've already got one and didn't know it! The vice w/ the tube is used as a field vice and attaches to my reciever hitch and is not used much at all in the shop until now, good idea. The other is what it is...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 " a 2" receiver hitch "--------Huh! wats-that. It's a gazinta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeddly Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Weld a couple hinges to a piece of heavy angle iron and then weld the hinge to table. Instant sheetmetal brake! Handles are optional, crescent wrenches mandatory. When not in use, it just lays flat and out of the way. I really like the idea for a removeable seat. I've seen them mounted to the corner posts with hinges so you can move the seat to both sides of the table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 so i am a blacksmith, not a spelling bee wizard B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramsies11 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 jigs are a great invention!! when you make your jigs put them on a think piece of sheet metal. 3/8" at the least and weld everything you need for that jig onto that peice of metal. drill two or three holes in your table and make it universal sizing for your vice/jigs. when not inuse just remove bolts and store. i was thinking on a "second table top" that is actually attatched to your table with hinges and when you need said jig just swing it up and bolt it down quickly. only uses one little section of the table and is useful. i personally own a half inch thick welding table i use quite often for everything. i havent yet made the "second tabletop" that i mentioned. i want STRONG hinges and my local supply stores dont carry them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 ramsie11 You said; "i personally own a half inch thick welding table i use quite often for everything. i havent yet made the "second tabletop" that i mentioned. i want STRONG hinges and my local supply stores dont carry them." Due to all of the things you have told us about that you have made, the answer is simple! Your a blacksmith, Just make yourself some STRONG HINGES. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Gents, Our shop table (800 lbs) has mounting sockets on all four sides. shown cleaned up between jobs. We use it to secure the post vice for heavy twisting and holding various jigs, it works great. The shop is a modular environment and anything we can do to increase the versitilty of our tooling is a good idea. The shop has to be able to accomodate a wide range of work and a verstile lay out table is a handy thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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