Hello, to everyone. I am new here and have gotten interested in trying my hand at forging (maybe making some knives). What are you using for a stand for your anvil? I was thinking about using 4x4's spiked together and built up for a stand. Maybe putting 100 pounds of sand in the cavity for more weight. Would this work? I am sure I will have a lot of questions so bear with me and thanks for the help!

Rodney

There are several variations for anvil stands.
Look here for ideas: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f24/contest-design-anvil-stand-1728/

Also in the gallery there are several shots of different anvil stands. Your idea sounds to be a good one. For me personally in the shop where I am an apprentice the stands are of two styles. Both are open in the back so your foot can go under the anvil to allow you to get closer to the work, and potentially save the strain on your back.

This a view from the back of one of the anvil stands at Yesteryear Forge.

Here is another stand used at Yetseryear Forge. These are used mostly for portable set ups.


I hope this helps. And good luck!!!

Peyton

Hey Peyton, thanks for the reply. I never thought about keeping the back open, but that is a great idea.

Rodney

Try Blueprint BP0336 Adjustable anvil stand. Quick and easy till you get one built.

i made my stands from steel tubing 3inch by 1.5 inch wall thickness .06
with an angle iron frame to capture the anvils base the legs were cut at a 15 degree compound angle
the legs were the tubing and i only used three to prevent rocking
this works real well and is light if you have to move it
NAAMANS FORGE

My first to stands were made from wood & look a lot like the one on the right
in Peyton reply.
They were strong but bounced on the floor & had to bolt them down.
I wanted to be able to move my anvil ( I havent much room)
Thanks to the ice storm I got my wish Big Red Oak tree fell
It about killed me getting it across the feild full of cow pies about 200 yrds.
I removed the bark tring to reduce checking & might add a iron band around the top.
Its 22 in across the top & think I will leave it that size will be good to lay tools on.

Some day hope to have a better shop set up where I can bury a log on end
in ground like the old Blacksmiths.
Ron

There's a few pics
here

Groups -> projects -> forge

but click on the preview image
in the right hand column first
because the full size ones are quite
large and bound to tie up your
machine if you have a slow connection

First pic is my main "battle anvil" mounted on a concrete block. I built the forms and poured in a couple sacks of quik-crete. The angle iron base holds the anvil from walking and a few tools. The anvil weighs 250 and the block weighs 280 so it's a lot of mass. You can't see it very well from this view but the opposite side has a shelf to hold small items. BTW, I am right handed but prefer the horn on the right so this is the side I see when working. The stain on top is oil.

The other two pics are of the Brazeal brothers rigs which they use at demo's. Their anvil is a block of steel set on edge and configured with with different surfaces for different jobs. The other has a very small anvil and vise with plenty of room for tools. A good example of their thorough understanding of the forging process combined with thinking "outside the box".

Any of the methods so far discussed will work well. Which you choose depends upon personal preference. I prefer an anvil base made from a section of tree trunk cut to much the same size as the base of the anvil. I have a crusher dust floor and the anvil blocks are set about 6" into the ground, they don't move even under heavy striking. For a portable it makes sense to use a steel framed base. If it is your main anvil, and your forge is already set up, you're unlikely to need to move the anvil around so a heavy base is quite practical, and desireable. Which ever method you choose to use anchor the anvil firmly to it. This will help to take some of the ring out of the anvil, and even big anvils walk around if not fimly attached.

i made mine from a section of koa (super hard hawaiian wood) about 6inches by 10 and built it up with 2x4s works great but burns when i drop hot stuff on it

Made mine out of 2" pipe & angle iron, but have been told a solid block of hard wood is the correct way to go.

Building up a wood stand from 4x4's or whatever is a good way to go. I mount mine on sections of tree trunk, aka, a log. Only way to go for long term use is wood. Especially true if you have a dirt or gravel floor. Metal stands don't work so well with soft floors, but a wooden stand will work on concrete or gravel.

I don't know how full time smiths could stand on concrete all day anyway, I know it kills my back/legs/feet. Dirt or gravel floor for sure.

Good subject, I use a old stump.

I took a 16ft 2x12 and cut it into 18" pieces then glued/nailed them together offsetting them by 2". I've seen pics of it posted around here.

It's a bit low for me so I'm thinking of building a 4" sand box to set it on then I can vary the height of the anvil.

I did the same as Chris, but used 2"X 10", and then ran a strip of 1/8" by 1" around it top and bottom. This gave me a place to hang hammers in each offset without them falling out. I like the basic design but would probably use 2" X 12" lumber next time. I also put some lead flashing from the junk pile under the anvil to quiet it down a bit.

I salvaged a 12 foot 2x10 that was part of the barn that once was on th place and laminated it up for my anvil stand.
Finnr

Why lead when there are other materials, rubber matting, wood, silicone etc

I glued 4 pieces 6x6 (finished to 5.5" construction dimension) together with construction adhesive to make an 11" x 11" stand. was always going to make metal straps to go around them but the "glue" is still holding after 5 years It could use a 2x4 skirt around the bottom for stabilty but its never been tipped over and I move it a lot!

Ron Hicks posted.... "Some day hope to have a better shop set up where I can bury a log on end in ground like the old Blacksmiths."

Is that the way old blacksmiths are supposed to be buried?

My anvil base is cut from a white oak stump. I used a chainsaw to make a truncated pyramid, then a circular saw to cut slots near the top and bottom. Steel bands (1/2 x 1 inch) are used in the slots (with tighteners) to keep the stump from splitting. I added some holders (screwed on the sides) for my swage block and the hardy tools I use most.

Works for me!

Someone, sorry that I don't have a link or the name, but someone just made a real nice portable/perm anvil stand. It looks real good. Just go through the first 3 pages of the blacksmithing pages looking for a anvil stand post.

Was it me?

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/anvil-stand-7401/

Vic.

My stand has been evolving over time, originally sections fo 2x12, bolted together with allthread and staggered to make little pockets for tools, then I wrapped the base with 2x4 to make it a little less tippy. Newest mod is the addition of a baking sheet tray under the anvil cause it seems like I'm always looking for a place to put the hot cut, bending fork and soapstone. I pulled the plumbers tape that was holding the 104#PW down, forged a couple of staples out of quarter inch round, glued down the tray with silicone, then glued the anvil to that and drove the staples thru the tray into the wooden stand. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I think it'll work out well.

Michael

Arbalist, yes it was you, i really like that stand.

Thanks, it's nice to get feedback. I sometimes wonder if a post will be useful to others so it's nice when folks say it is!

Vic.

Glenn,
I used the Lead under the anvil because it is what I had in the scrap pile and I had heard it would help deaden the ring. It helps a when I am over the thick mass but not when I am on the horn or heal.