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I Forge Iron

hdwarner

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Everything posted by hdwarner

  1. i was at the smithsonium today and there was a metorite that hit arizona in the 1800" and guess who found it ? read story http://www.meteoritestudies.com/protected_TUCSON.HTM
  2. anyone know how much this hammer would cost to make i have all the tools and capabilities like lathes saws mills and welders just looking for an amount for parts , approx
  3. questions answered these are for some sort of window shutters forging will get some pics when the kuhn is forging they are milled on a milling machine the material is h13 tool steel the pictures show the dies before heat treat and they are three pieces mounted to one base plate , underneath not shown is countersunk screws to allow for perfect alignment
  4. i just finished up some production dies for a kuhn hammer in pa thought i would share
  5. i thought this was a pretty good idea , not mine but i will steal i have one of these face plates steel table/ welding table
  6. i took a piece of 3/8 thick by 1 inch wide by 4 foot long steel in even increments in the center slots about 2 inches long opened them up with my cone mandrel twisted everyother one and for a novice like i am i thought it turned out acceptable just wanted to share the pic
  7. been a long time since i been on here , i have been fortunate enough to be real busy at my day job. Plenty of parts need machining but i always check the classified every day and i saw an anvil and tools for 150 dollars about an hour from me. i go get it wasn't too enthused till i got it home and on the side it had kowelsa , sweden on side of 70 pound anvil with an enderas hot cut so all in all i am happy and this anvil was barely used. i don't get a chance too often to gloat so please endure me anvil
  8. in a blacksmith shop , on a drill press i reccomend a drill point angle of 118 degrees for most work . the equation for, is the more mild the material the steeper the angle hence 130 degrees for stainless stay away from split points although they cut great at first but are real vulnable to chipping .
  9. for stable and clean working envirement , the medical machining industry " swiss type cncs" seems to be a huge demand in my area ,northeast synthes is the company that is predominant i don't work in that field but headhunters call me on a daily basis i have been a machinist for 30 years , i am a journeyman . always worked never layed off . i like it always have if i can say this , and i can in this forum being a machinist or blacksmith for that matter is a matter of "heart" to have any sustainability. i have seen the guys with no heart come and then they go. just like blacksmithing , being a successful machinist requires constant vigilance and attention . if not you end up being another"button pusher" that fades into obscurity. if you are looking for a good shop to work for ask the local tooling supplier "street salesman" they normally know where the good shops are to work for, not the propaganda adds in newspaper another observation is the smaller jobs shops tend to in this day and age pay more and contrary to popular belief manufaturing in the states is going thru the roof don't reference manufaturing with gm or ford that is a whole other entity . i have worhed unfortunatly 50 hours plus for years now. chuck
  10. wood is fine try using a very tight grain wood or even "nova ply" i understand you can not always back your work up like drilling pipe or on site eye beams , etc but here is a grind that will minimise drill pulling when drill goes thru and it lends itself for longer lasting , takes a slight more physical energy but worth the expense for the results , recommended grind for brass also grind the positive rake on the drill to nuetral rather than positive rather than grind till you understand function , use a sharpening stone at first a few swipes on the face is all you need be careful not to wrap around to the margin of the drill i will try to generate better pics on my cad system drilling principles is one of the most important aspects of machining and sometimes blacksmithing however somethings are overlooked will expand
  11. here are some proven tips from me on longevity of twist drills When you purchase a brand new drill take an Arkansaw stone or some light sand paper and gently stone the face of the drill or the lip when these drills are ground new they have microscopic slivers that tear into large imperfections when drilling. Try if possible to drill into another piece of steel when drilling through a piece { NO NOT INTO YOUR DRILL PRESS TABLE OR YOUR VISE } and don't completely drill through that piece either. One of the most detrimental things that happens to a drill is when you drill through is that little thin section right before the drill breaks through gets so hot it anneals the hardened drill , were blacksmiths we know that right. Be sure you have the correct speed for drilling , a slower speed is always better than a higher speed, if you have doubts. Keep good pressure on drill , Another dulling factor is a drill that dwells If you are using cutting oils this even worsens the dulling process. If you are not pushing the drill, think of the honing process, that is what you are doing honig the cutting edge away. A couple drops of oil is all that is needed at entry. A properly dressed twist drill in a blacksmith shop, for what blacksmiths usually cut, will never need replacing just minor touchups. i have dressed drills on the job and drilled thousands of holes in mild steel with out any maintenance . if there is any interest in this subject i will expand
  12. left hand drills , ahhhhhhh i used to run screw machines and the high range was ccw with left hand drills to drill the hole and when you went to tap threads , right hand threads that is you shifted to low range and the machine would run cw and reversing the tap went into high range
  13. left hand drills , ahhhhhhh i used to run screw machines and the high range was ccw and when you went to tap you shifted to low range and the machine would run cw and reversing the tap went into high range
  14. i have lathes and milling machines and i perpetually make more tools i like to think of it as a self feeding frenzy i love it though always need a tool to do something
  15. i made a railroad track anvil , i bored out the hole to accept a 1-1/16 socket with a 3/4 square drive i pressed the socket in upside down and flush with the 3/4 inch square drive showing i welded from bottom worked well , somewhere in this forum there is a pic of it , iwll search chuck
  16. if you had a lathe what would you do? what would you make.
  17. you came to the right place , look around at the vast forum postings many questions have already been answered welcome
  18. depends on who you ask ask my wife and she'll tell you "no more than $121.12 dollars " with blacksmith included ask me and i will give you the long version of the journeys i went on to aquire these wonderful tools and how much exactly each cost . estimate 6 thousand dollars plus or minus .32 cents another blacksmith would charge me to take all that junk away a scrap dealer would give me 20cents per pound a judge would give me a fine for 10 thousand dollars and a possible jail sentence for having such dangerous weapontry so sum it up values vary
  19. make sure where it goes into tank there is a check valve , otherwise it will leak out of the compressor head when not running , and some check valves you can buy via grainger industrial if they still carry them have a built in blow off for easy starting or your pressure switch may have a pressure relief what this does is downloads the residual pressure in the compressore head for easier starting i notice the motor is a duel capacitor so it is a single phase unit , i reccomend if possible to wire 220 volts for less amperes means less money out of pocket in electricity now whats your plans to have a pneumatic hammer to forge with?
  20. all material being cut has an optimal cutting speed based on hardness and and machinability and tool type whether it is high speed steel or carbide the optimal cutting speed is usaully defined as s.f.m which can be optained thru tol manufatures or mmaterial sciences s.f.m, surface feet per minute is the rate you can safely pass the tool over a workpiece with minimal wear and good cutting action. s.f.m normally needs to be converted to r.p.m. revolutions per minute . when cutting a workpiece the most crucial variable in tool life is s.f.m second is feed rate of tool or workpiece . and third is depth of cut .
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