Toreus Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hello everyone, I want to make a burger flipper for an uncle who loves to grill. I’m stuck on how to attach the spatulas to the handle. Requirements for the flipper: Must have a 2-foot long handle, Has to be of the double-spatula type (kinda like THIS ), Must be food-safe The plan is to buy a sheet of 316 stainless and cut the spatulas out, then attach them (somehow) onto a 4-foot long piece of steel (probably SS) bent into a U. I could probably just cut it out of a single piece of stainless, but that would leave a lot of unused material. I’d like to put wooden scales on each side of the U as handles, but I’m not confident I wouldn’t mess it up, so I’m leaning towards just wrapping them in paracord, rawhide or something similar. Now for the questions: 1) Which thickness of SS steel should I get, for both the spatula and the handle? I have no experience working with it, so I don’t know what would be good for flipping burgers and a bit of abuse. 2) How do I attach the spatula to the handle? I’m horrible at riveting nicely, and I can’t weld stainless. Thanks! T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Use stainless sheet metal and just attach it to the handle with steel rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hello everyone, I want to make a burger flipper for an uncle who loves to grill. I’m stuck on how to attach the spatulas to the handle. Requirements for the flipper: Must have a 2-foot long handle, Has to be of the double-spatula type (kinda like THIS ), Must be food-safe The plan is to buy a sheet of 316 stainless and cut the spatulas out, then attach them (somehow) onto a 4-foot long piece of steel (probably SS) bent into a U. I could probably just cut it out of a single piece of stainless, but that would leave a lot of unused material. I’d like to put wooden scales on each side of the U as handles, but I’m not confident I wouldn’t mess it up, so I’m leaning towards just wrapping them in paracord, rawhide or something similar. Now for the questions: 1) Which thickness of SS steel should I get, for both the spatula and the handle? I have no experience working with it, so I don’t know what would be good for flipping burgers and a bit of abuse. 2) How do I attach the spatula to the handle? I’m horrible at riveting nicely, and I can’t weld stainless. Thanks! T. Stainless 16SWG (1.5mm) If you can't rivet, try small brass nuts and bolts, the stainless would be threadable at 16SWG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Clad Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Well remember, practice makes perfect. When I rivet, I put the two pieces to be riveted together and put the rivet through the holes, then I mark a line on the rivet shaft and cut to length. I cut my rivets about 1 to 1.5 times the rivet shaft diameter. (This length is what is sticking out the back side of the hole). I must admit, I don't measure anymore on small rivets, I approximate the length by sight. When riveting the two items together use a ball pein and use the flat hammer face for a couple of hits to help set the rivet then switch to the ball pein. I like to turn my work while hammering the rivet to squish evenly. Usually I just set the head of the rivet on the anvil face, however I did make myself a steel bar with shallow impressions for riveting but rarely use it. Personially I don't like flat squished rivet heads, I hit the rivet at angles to get that nice dome look. Try not to hit too many times on one side verses the other or it will be uneven and split the head of the rivet your trying to form. I would practice on some scrap pieces until you get it down. I believe rivets on your project would look great....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Do you want it to look hand made or machine made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toreus Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Looking handmade would be nice, but it's in no way a requirement. Looks like the way to go would be to suck it up and practice riveting until I get it right I would think A36 rivets would rust, so for the final project I'd have to get a rod of stainless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I use the A36 rivets on all of my utensils, along with mild steel for the utensil itself, and just tell the customer to keep it coated with a light coat of veggie oil between uses. You can use SS rod and make your own rivets. That would not hurt a thing. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 ive used copper rivets on most of my utencils and have had no problems. they need to be at least 1/8 inch i think. i use some old telegraph wire i have(approx. 3/16 inch). if the part of the handle that mounts to the blade is broad enough, it works fine. i use three on everything(1 center, 1 each side). they never rust, and give really nice contrast to the steel. this shows what i mean, this is a large spatula, almost 2 feet long overall! hope it helps Ed Steinkiechner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironstein Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 You could also try to start with some thicker stock and fullering out material to make the spatula and tapering the shaft up to the handle. I started a shovel for the forge with 3/4 square stock. I started the taper with four inches of untouched stock on the end, finished my taper and left what i wanted for the handle, then fullered the end and drew it out in both directions to the size i wanted Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBrann Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 If you have a hard time with rivets.... try brass rod or brass brake rivets.... or copper rivets for leather.... stainless will be mighty to head over.... Put up pictures when you finish it... don't be afraid to make more than 1... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 stainless welding wire can be had at welding supply store usually up to 5/32" and smaller diameters makes fine rivets. i suggest alloy 304, as it seems to be malleable, not sure discuss with sales. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Stainless works differently than plain steel does. It work hardens rapidly, so drilling can be tough if not done correctly; slower speed, and constant pressure creating chips-no slipping. It is also harder to cut. As to gauge, that will depend on how hard you want to lean on it. Just measure some commercial ones that you like. I wouldn't go too thin. I have noticed that a lot of new kitchen gear is really flimsy. I would be leery of the scales that you mentioned other than the wood. This is an item that will be getting washed, and needs to be fairly sanitary. Paracord, and rawhide can hold a lot of bacteria, as well as being tough to keep clean. Hardwoods, contrasting metals, plastics, phenolics, or just forming a grip in the material itself are other options. Riveting isn't that hard to master, it just takes some practice. A rivet setter may help you too. Steel rivets can be oiled to keep from rusting. Copper, and brass rivets work easier,and are non-rusting. If you just get some rod, make sure it is annealed before using it. It will upset easier, and be less prone to cracking during assembly. Stainless rivets will need to be polished, or passivated to restore their anti-corrosion properties if heated red to rivet. Stainless means just that....it stains less than other steels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toreus Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 Here's a rough sketch of what I want to do. The red dots are the proposed rivet locations. I'll be able to work on it tomorrow, so I'll post an update after that. I think I'll try out the unadorned handles, and add on wood scales if it really needs it. Thanks for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Please don't add anything that can burn/melt/not be dishwashable to the handle---makes for a much longer use life. I like to forge the end of the spatula thinner; may be easier to grind it---not sharp but thinner so it's easier to sneak under an item on the grill---though I generally use mine for pancakes on a griddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 ive used copper rivets on most of my utencils and have had no problems. they need to be at least 1/8 inch i think. i use some old telegraph wire i have(approx. 3/16 inch). if the part of the handle that mounts to the blade is broad enough, it works fine. i use three on everything(1 center, 1 each side). they never rust, and give really nice contrast to the steel. this shows what i mean, this is a large spatula, almost 2 feet long overall! hope it helps Ed Steinkiechner Now thats a nice looking spatula Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.