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Finally Finished Hay Budden Re-build

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Hello, I finally finished my needed re-build on my 125lb Hay Budden anvil Saturday. I used Rob Grunter's method and needless to say it works great. I re-built the anvil with 70s-2 wire, then Stoody Build-up, and the last 2 passes were of Stoody 965G. I was a long hard process, but now I can not wait to try it out. With the anvil mounted like it is, it does not have that high pitch ring to it, also if a ball bearing is dropped upon it the bearing will return 90-100 percent of its height.















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Why did you ruin that beautiful historic anvil? Now historians wont know how people used to abuse anvils. That's a phenomenal job you did there. Though it looks like a show piece in actuality you might find that paint a nuance as hot iron will burn it and fumes will waft up in your face. But truly a gorgeous job. Now get to work wearing it out again!

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Yes, You are correct, I did use flat stock to start and stop the hard-facing on. I did that so I could control the beginning of the arc and make sure the crater is off the anvil for a uniform height weld bead. It keeps the edges all the same height.

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What a beautiful job. Now, this is a nice anvil. Probably increased the value 500%. That's good rebound as well, and another confirmation that the technique is very workable. Oddly enough, I was browsing through the California Blacksmith archives, and noticed a negative story on the repair method.

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Wow, NICE JOB. Where can I learn more about doing something similar? I have an anvil that the top popped off of. Well most of the top anyway. I was thinking about tring to rerface it but didn't think it was posible to turn out like that. WHat did you (or should you do) for a pre heat/post heat? How thick should the stooty be? Did you just use a grinder for the final finish? That stoody is hard stuff!! Would it just be dead if you just used 7018 or some other "regular" rod?

P.s. I hope this hasn't all been hashed over before, I just found this site a little while ago.


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I use Rob Grunter's method of rebuilding anvils which has the pre-heat and post-heat temps. If the face is loose I would remove all of the face which is loose and leave what is not. I heat up an anvil with a weed burner and check heat temp with a 400 degree Tempil stick crayon. I rebuild starting with 70s2 welding electrode which is a mig wire. I use Stoody 965g and had luck so far with it. When starting the first pass on the edge I clamp a piece of copper block against the side and lay a piece of 3/4in steel under the other side of the anvil to tip it to the copper for a thicker weld bead. Hard-facing does not like a long arc so it needs to maintain a short arc for porosity free welds. The 965g Stoody which I use is a 2layer recommended and a 3 layer max, do not exceed the max. Make sure the anvil it heated and cooled properly each time you weld on it. When finished welding, I grind it down with 7in Dewalt and 9in Milwaukee angle grinders, one with a Norton, Norzon Plus flat stone, and the other with a 6in cup stone for flatness. This is just my way of doing a re-build, but I am sure there are other ways of doing it, just don't sway to far from Rob's process. If I remember correctly there was a blueprint on IFI which used a 7018 rod for in-tel build-up and finished with a hard-facing rod on top. Sounds like a lot of work but it is kind of fun.

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