T Ritter

It looks like a Mousehole to me too

A (1911) 25lb Little Giant and a (1913) 50lb Little Giant old styles and both are rebuilt and run like a champ

good job you did a nice repair on that anvil

Very Impressive nice job

I have repaired anvils too with the face or part of it missing. I used a mig wire, I think a 70s2 which does not deform under pressure and 965g Stoody .045 wire is similar to 1105 Stoody arc rod. I have had success with this and the preheat and post heat are very important, so if done correct the hard-facing does not crack

Mine is a 7x12 horizontal power-matic with coolant works great!!

Personally I like Rob Grunter's process of rebuilding an anvil. It has worked very well for me in the past, only I changed the Stoody 1105 1/8in rod to Stoody 965 G .045 wire. This wire held up fine for the anvils I rebuild. When it comes time to grind down the hard facing I use a 9in Milwaukee angle grinder with a 6in Norton Charger cup stone works great. Just my opinion on doing rebuild. Also that anvil is just fine to use until you are sure if you want to rebuild it

Boy that anvil sure took a beating, but hey that still looks fun to rebuild with the right equipment.

Yes, that anvil can be repaired, but like others said it is somewhat of a difficult task. The hard surfacing and build-up wire will set you back a bit. I always have used Rob Grunter's method and the anvils I do all ways come out fine. My last anvil I repaired was just like that one only mine was missing the heel.

I have repaired a few anvils which were missing part of their face plate. I would agree that using a underlay rod and finishing with a hard-facing rod is the only way to go when doing anvil repair. When you are completely finished there is no chance of a a un-welded section.

The first 50lb hammers Little Giant built had the hole through the frame jut like a Fairbanks. Then the dies were set at an angle so work could pass the frame from the side, instead of hitting it.

I would pick #3, to cut the de-laminated part of the face off with a zip wheel. Then after removing the loose face and finding solid weld again to re-build the missing area using Rob Grunter's method. Yes, it is time consuming, but you have a good solid face when finished.

I have a 125 lb Hay Budden, I placed some rubber between the anvil and the stump then bolted it down with angle iron and lag bolts. That quieted the ring to just a thud, it is actually quiet for a Hay Budden.

That sure is an amazing pile if anvils you have their. I am kind of jealous, I only have two. :P

Yes, the anvil is in very nice condition, plus it is 700 lbs, but for $14,000 a bit out of my price range. However someone else might be skipping all the way to the bank thinking they got a good deal. Just my 2 cents.