Food safe finish

[mtforge]

Not really a problem but a tapping of the collective brain. What do you use for your food safe finish? Like for ladles, forks, spoons etc. I'm interested to hear new ideas.
I used to use beeswax but when the item sat in the sun it got tacky and customers at rendezvous didn't like it.
I've used linseed oil but don't like working with it (it stains clothes, breathing hot fumes isn't good, label says if taken internally to call the poison control center).
Some people are allergic to peanut oil so I avoid it.
I've settled on vegetable oil. Cheap, readily available and easy to apply/reapply.
So what do you use? And why?

[Mr Smith]

Olive oil.

I clean the utensil in vinegar, to remove scale. Then I chuck on a coat of oil, put it in the oven, and let it heat until the oil burns off. Three coats oughtta do it.

Apply it sparingly, and it goes a nice nut-brown colour.

[Brian C.]

mineral oil works o.k. also.

[GobblerForge]

Crisco. Just like a cast iron skillet.
Gobbler

[HWooldridge]

I sand blast off any scale, then reheat with a torch until it's blue. As the piece cools back down, I spray with unflavored Pam (which is mostly canola oil).

[polarbearforge]

I'll second the mineral oil. It doesn't go rancid like vegetable oil can.

Jamie

[B. Norris]

Regular mineral oil is a laxative. I would recommend "food safe" mineral oil, available at cooking stores, also known as "salad bowl oil."

[ThomasPowers]

All mineral oils are a laxative; if you are not taking it by the spoonful it will have no effect.

Thomas

[frogvalley]

Canola oil, baked in the oven at 350 deg for about 2 hours then recoat and bake for another couple. Thin coats and make sure there are no runs. I spray mine on with a kitchen grade pump oil sprayer.

Fully baked/seasoned vegetable oil will not go rancid. Ever.

I do food safe bowls with this. Dozens of em.

If fully burnt or forged on, beeswax shouldn't get tacky.

[J W Bennett]

HWoolridge,
I use canola oil.Didn't realize thats what Pam was(the bride doesn't let me near the kitchen).Spaying is quicker and easier than wiping with a rag. Beleive I'll have to give that a go.

JWB

[CurlyGeorge]

Bees Wax melted on and burned. It give a dark finish and I haven't had any bad tastes or problems from my utensils.

[Jerry W.]

Olive oil in a spray can. As long as the wife keeps getting it, I will keep using it. Works Great.....
Jerry

[Ten Hammers]

Olive oil after de-scaling. Excellent finish.

[yesteryearforge]

I also just use Pam
Mike Tanner

[welder19]

One thing to keep in mind for anyone who doesn't know or hasn't found out the hard way some aerosol cooking oils are flamable, so read the lable to see if it is before using at the forge.

welder19

[Flaming S Forge]

Another food safe finish is Bees Oil. My wife got me some at a kitchen supply outlet. It is a mix of beeswax and mineral oil made mainly for wooden salad bowls. It smells nice and is easy to apply.

[ironrosefarms]

I'll add another vote for the olive oil. I buy it for our kitchen in a gallon jug and just put some in a smaller jug for use at the forge. I usually apply it with a soft cloth after I remove the scale on the smaller pieces or on bigger items I have a spray jug (like you get to put window cleaner in) and just adjust the nozel for the best light coating spray. I just seen a couple indoor pieces that are not being used that are now 5 years old and other than a little dust the owner has allowed to gather they look as good today as they did when they was bought from me.

James

[Ten Hammers]

I might add that I tell folks the following.....for a LEGAL food safe finish I would probobly have to use stainless. My efforts to de-scale and clean up carbon make for safe finish in my opinion. The olive oil works well if properly burned on. Charcoal or gas makes for fairly clean finish.

Edited July 16, 2008 by Ten Hammers

[S.Willis]

I am with Curly here. I use beeswax