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I Forge Iron

polarbearforge

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  1. Very nice. I've never done any hot work on a punch press, but I used to make dies for them. I like the setup. Thanks for sharing it with us! Jamie
  2. Nice looking press! That's the style I'm going to build when I get around to it. I had not thought about putting everything underneath, though. Good idea. Jamie
  3. Larry, thanks for sharing the pictures of your build. We'll keep in touch about one for the school. All my grinders so far have been single speed. My solution (no way to use vfd in my old shop) was just to build more grinders. Jamie
  4. Any maybe a quick change of underwear. Wow. Jamie
  5. Why do people try new things? To test ideas, to see if they can improve on a tool or a process that can benefit many or just themselves. You could ask this question about a lot of different things people do. Like why would somebody hook up an old pedal powered stone sharpening wheel to a belt grinder motor. Jamie
  6. It's geared down, but it's motorized. If you do a search for Mcdonald rolling mill you'll find other examples similar to mine. I haven't added the pictures back to the website yet. Jamie
  7. Wow, that's one expensive DVD. But look on the bright side, shipping is only $2.98! Jamie
  8. I forge weld all the time with my rolling mill. It's not a jeweler's rolling mill, though, and was built to withstand a bit more pressure. I'm not sure that a standard jeweler's mill would have the rigidity. Jamie
  9. I have a feeling that I'll have to go with stainless steel media to get the results I'm looking for. I've tried actual tumbling media (it imbedded dust into the parts), coal slag (barely caused a scratch) and invisibily rusty steel shot(didn't know it had rust until I took out the rusty aluminum). I have some samples that I sent to one of the media companies. I'll update this when they tell me which I should use. Jamie
  10. Danr's website is http://www.irontreeworks.com/. I can't seem to get there, however. I'll contact him and let you know. Jamie aka Copin
  11. Thanks for the input. We have vibratory tumblers at work with the plastic pyramids and water flush as well. This was one of my projects for home. I tried the coal slag blasting medium, and it barely caused a scratch. It was also quite a bit quieter. I wanted to avoid adding water, since this is in my shop and it freezes in there sometimes. Jamie
  12. Greetings all! I just finished my new tumbler. The body is 24 inches from left to right, and the bar in the middle is 1 " diameter. It is running about 29rpm through a gear reducer. After I took this picture, I coated the inside of it with truck bed liner. It's not overly noisy, but a constant noise that starts to get on my nerves after a while. Ear plugs and turning the radio up seem to help. I ended up getting it finished when they were throwing away 250# of tumbling media (new in bag) at work. It's a triangular stone. I've run a few batches of parts, and it seems to embed some of the dust into the parts. I'm planning on tumbling smaller laser cut aluminum and stainless steel plates. I don't need a real aggressive cut, just a light deburring and maybe a bit of a frosted finish. I'm going to try black magnum coal slag today and see what it ends up doing. Any other recommendations on media for tumbling dry? I'd like to prevent an extra washing step afterwards. Jamie
  13. That's similar to mine, but without the indexing. I cut a larger plate at work with teardrops for my hawks, a few holes for when I need them, and several different sized rectangles for drifting belt axes. When I get a chance, I'll post a picture. Jamie
  14. Yep, I am here, too. I wondered why I suddenly got a lot of questions about tong blanks. When I first started forging, I bought some tongs, but of course they weren't quite what I needed. I really didn't like forging tongs, I was more interested in being a bladesmith than a blacksmith. After one gathering, we watched Bill Epp's video on making tongs. One of the methods shown, was to start with flat stock, and forge a divot in a couple spots. Draw out one side for the reigns and twist the other side for the jaw. Put a hole in the middle, shape and rivet. As I was driving home, I couldn't help but think that I could cut a flat pattern on the laser. So I designed it and played with it, and came up with the regular tong blank as well as a bolt tong blank. I'll be the first to admit that these aren't for everybody. Some people can forge a pair of tongs from round stock as fast as I can from my tong blanks. I shared them for a couple reasons. I know there are others who need tongs but don't like to make them. They work really well for beginners. There's enough material in the handle and bit that it can be cut down as the need arises, yet they're beefy enough to handle a lot of abuse. Also, if I'm forging, I'd really rather forge blades or axes than tongs. (Personal preference, your mileage may vary). Jamie
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