I am reading Chapter 16 of Mark Aspery's excellent book (volume 1).

In the chapter about making bottom tools, we are advised to make a heading plate for the creation of these tools.

Why make this instead of just using the hardy hole that they will eventually be used in?

My guess is to avoid stress on the anvil in case the tool gets cold during the construction, but the reasoning is never spelled out in the book.

Doug

You're right. The force necessary to upset the mass needed to create a swage is subtantially more the the force applied to the tool in use. Unless you have al arge anvil wth a thick heel, it is safer to perform this type of upsetting in a seperate block designed for that type of work. Such a block could be fabricated and then set over the middle of the anvil rather than the heel and it would work fine.

Not to mention that often the anvils with the large thick heels are things like Fisher's and Vulcan where most of that thickness is cast iron and so not nearly as strong as you might think!

I have a 325 pound Euroanvil. It still has that 'new anvil smell', so I think I will be making a tool to make the tool that I will use to make tools...

Thanks,
Doug

We ran a bottom tool workshop at the CBA spring conference a couple years ago, under Marks supervision. I was sooo happy I had a separate block. We ran more than 30 folks through, came out with 2 broken sledge handles, dozens of mis-strikes, etc. We decided it was humorous, because nobody cares if they whang up the block. An anvil would have gotten too much character beat into it.

I am reading Chapter 16 of Mark Aspery's excellent book (volume 1).

In the chapter about making bottom tools, we are advised to make a heading plate for the creation of these tools.

Why make this instead of just using the hardy hole that they will eventually be used in?

My guess is to avoid stress on the anvil in case the tool gets cold during the construction, but the reasoning is never spelled out in the book.

Doug

For me it comes down to two things.
1.) I think that the forces involved in upsetting such a large mass in the Hardy is above the call of duty for an anvil. With a dedicated block, you can mount to the middle of the anvil face and get a much better return to your hammer blow.

2.) I worry about the heat transfer from the swage to the anvil. I know that I can season my heading block (large Wally Yater swage block 125 lbs) with oil mid point through the upsetting process - that's got to run 430+ F. I would worry about effecting the heat treatment of the anvil around the hardy hole.

Straight from the man himself. Thank you.

I just made my first couple of chisels. It was cool to read parts that say "Don't do it this way, it will break." and then do it that way anyways, and break it! (Scrolling wrench)

Thanks,
Doug

Doug has a question about a book and the GOSH DARNED author comes right up and answers it.

Blacksmithing is unlike any other profession in the world.

Enough to give ya goosebumps.

maybe i need to get this book..

I made the block as Mark describes in his book mine has two holes 1 1/4 for my Brooks and 1 inch for my other anvil (London pattern) I would think if your using a euro style anvil with the hardy up front you wouldn't need one

maybe i need to get this book..

I did and i figured it was worth the price!

Jim bob you may have more mass to keep your anvil together but you might still affect the heat treatment. That said I have always upset in my hardy hole for the fit, but you do see anvils that are broken there.

Mark has done a great service in producing these books. Even I can understand what he's conveying. Besides, he's a really fine chap and he needs the money. Really though, his instructions are very clear with lots of step-by-step pictures. A must for any blacksmiths library (that would be the little shelf next to the toilet).

Edited November 5, 200916 yr by nakedanvil

Hopefully mark produces more books
and I hope they make him some money for retirement too

I have vol 1 and am going to buy volume 2 when i have some extra money,

Jim bob you may have more mass to keep your anvil together but you might still affect the heat treatment. That said I have always upset in my hardy hole for the fit, but you do see anvils that are broken there.

When Mark pointed that out the light blub went on thats why I made one ...mine weights about 30 pounds or so added to my 140 lb brooks it works for me

Beth, ask for the book for Christmas, it is one you really want in your library, I just wish he would quit hiking the Sierras, and make some more darned books!! Just kiddin mate!

I've seen it here a bunch of times but it is easier for me just to ask.
Where is the best and quickest way to get Mark"s books?
Sorry to be kinda lazy!
Thanks
Billy

I've seen it here a bunch of times but it is easier for me just to ask.
Where is the best and quickest way to get Mark"s books?
Sorry to be kinda lazy!
Thanks
Billy

You can go to Amazon.com and order them if you want to pay by Credit card.
If you order directly from me (markaspery.net) then I sign the books to you.

My apologies to IFI participants, I try to keep self promotion and commerce out of my postings. Thank you for your tolerance.

Just received volume 2, volume 1 on the way. Mark signed volume 2. Great book, i am gonna start making some tools as he describes. The best blacksmithing book i have seen yet.

I just purchased Mark's second book. It's a must have!! The best blacksmithing book I have ever read.

Mark, IMHO it's not self promotion if you are answering direct questions about your product. Thank you for taking the time. I think I will be asking for one or both books for Christmas myself.
Phil

I did and i figured it was worth the price!

Actually, it is worth significantly *more* than the price.

Extremely high quality photos
Clear instructions and pitfall warnings (that I have ignored at my peril!)
Quality binding, paper and construction

I hope these are profitable enough to encourage Parts III through X. Then on to the Advanced series.



-Doug