Boiled linseed oil as a finish?

[Nick]

I usually use beeswax or sometimes paint as a finish on my work, but I've thought of trying linseed oil. What would be the best way to apply it, and what are its charactaristics compared with beeswax?

Thanks,
Nick

[Tyler Murch]

Linseed will protect iron much better that bees wax. The best way I have found is to put a coat on, then burn it on there. Do that two or three times. It'll give a dark baked on finish very resistant to water and compared to beeswax very resistant to abrasion.

[oakwoodforge]

I've used Watco Danish Oil in much the same way, it works quite well.

Jens

[JerryCarroll]

I've been using future acrylic floor finish for quite some time. It dries quick and lasts as good as slower drying stuff--especially inside. It's easy to reapply too when needed--nothing is permanent :(

[chainsaw]

Rags or cloths soaked with linseed oil must be handled carefully. Linseed oil releases heat as it dries. Soaked rags in confined areas could combust spontaneously. Wash rags after using linseed oil.
I darn near burned down my barn by leaving a couple of linseed rags on the bench by mistake which I was using to color some black hot iron. Caught fire about 3 hours later, by chance just happened to take a look at the barn before going to bed, smoke was pouring out of the door. Got it out but just in time.. Still creeps me out, just thinking about it. Now I now you are saying "this guy must be dumb as a post, everyone knows contanimated rags can catch fire". true enough, I knew that also, but I did it anyway. Now I wash them out and then put in the burn barrel EVERYTIME.

[lefthand forge]

I showed up to the welding shop one morning when I was in college to find a merry little blaze from a couple of the guys throwing linseed soaked rags down after finishing a wooden trailer bed.

John

[stevomiller]

I've used a mix of linseed oil w/bees wax to good effect. I painted it on when the steel was at a black heat that made the mixture smoke but not flare up.

[frogvalley]

I use a linseed oil and beeswax mix for much of the "traditional work" that I do. It is an old fashioned mixture.

BEE CAREFUL as THIS IS DANGEROUS! DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! With that said, In a double boiler , I melt beeswax in the amount of or equivalent of about 2-5 percent of your finished volume of mix. then slowly add the linseed oil and heat and mix until both are thoroughly mixed. It should be thick but still liquid if the proportions are right. I also make some that is thicker like paste and rub on warm not really hot metal and bake in oven.

Apply to black hot iron, reheat and recoat as necessary or apply a little heavier and bake in your oven like cast iron for a couple of hours at 250 degrees.

This gives a nice black/brown finish that is durable.

An alternative that is popular with my customers is straight boiled linseed oil applied to cold metal with a brush or rag, wiped down till it just barely coats the piece and then allowing it to dry over several days.

This option gives it a pewter / clear finish. Not as durable as baking it on, but pretty enough to warrant the application nonetheless.

[Nick]

When baking on the plain linseed oil, is that brushing the oil on and holding it over the coals of the forge to dry it, or do you mean literally putting the piece in the oven?

[Nolano]

stove polish makes a nice blackened finish when applied to a piece of hot steel  (a few hundred degrees, not much more)

[frogvalley]

Bake them in your kitchen oven for the finish- at 250 degrees for a few hours or so. If you don't mind a little stink that is. This too works great for canola oil finishes, which is my reccomended finish for bowls and eating utensils. Bake either linseed or vegetable oil as you would for seasoning cast iron pots and pans.

Read all cautions about rags and linseed oil!

I forge a number of bowls of various sizes, and occasionally a wok, most of them way to big to evenly reheat in the forge. I am currently making a 20 inch wide 12 across and 4 inch deep tray/bowl/platter thing out of 1/8 inch plate. Once that done, I ain't gonna be sticking it back in the fire or anywhere near coal dust.

You can't reheat most of the stuff that you make in the forge unless you have a monster forge or make only small stuff or just heat parts of it at time-- and that won't work for some things as the finish comes out uneven.

[Rick Barter]

You know, I see all these suggestions in books and on-line for different finishes for ironwork. However, they're all things that need to be re-applied and, therefore, not for outdoor use.

I know you can primer and paint or powdercoat, etc. for outdoor work. But, I want to know what can be used to finish metal for outdoor use, but still preserve the look of the metal itself without covering it up?

rvb

[frogvalley]

Not for outdoor use is wrong. Any of the above finishes that I have talked about can be used outdoors. Our modern thinking is coat it and forget it. The older finishes needed to be reapplied once a year or perhaps every two years but they certainly are fine for preventing rust. I treat and touch up stuff all the time. It isn't that hard to do, a little steel wool and reapply the linseed oil or what have you and bingo.

However, I do use other finishes for clients that want it and for some of my gallery customers Ifinish work with a Clear Rustoleum or for a little more a couple of coats of Polyurethane Clear. I happen to like the look of these finishes myself as you can see through to the black and silver colors of the metal. Clear enamel or poly is my finish of choice for sculptural indoor or outdoor items that I don't want to "patina" to red(rust). Next in line is pure boiled linseed oil, not heated.

I don't put the spray finishes on traditional hooks or tripods or hangers or the like. Not usually anyway. And I don't powder coat at all. Even a powder coat will eventually wear and rust so all of these finishes are transitory. Why worry about it rusting outside anyway? Unless the stains will be troublesome, mostly I tell people to let it rust. It takes 75 years to rust through a half inch of iron, maybe longer so I ain't all that worried.

[Glenn]

I have had several pieces powder coated. The finish is prone to chipping. Once the finish is compromised, water gets in and rust starts. The rust will run under the finish poping it off. Repair is to remove the powder coat from the entire piece (sandblasting) and refinish.

Look at the ironwork that has lasted 50 years, 100 years, or more. It was maintained on a regular basis. And not with a $2 can of spray paint.

[Tyler Murch]

Nick, Baking

Doesn't matter. Heat is heat. You can do it in the oven or over the forge.

[ThomasPowers]

My favorite "coating" for outdoor stuff?---forge it out of stainless and passivate it and forget it!

Thomas

[Rick Barter]

This may be a stupid question, but what does 'passivate it' mean?

rvb
 

[Ten Hammers]

Common used oil ( oil changes ) works pretty well. so does Linseed and Watco as well ( like Jens stated ). Coal, gas or acetelyne all bake finishes good. Just got to be careful and not get too hot. Happens fast sometimes. I burn Watco rags or linseed rags after use ( coal forge ) or just torch them and let them burn under the hood. spontanious combustion is scary stuff. I let the used oil rags ( actually blue paper towels ) air dry and have never had an issue with them but I keep my eye on them. Never let them accumulate too much and keep them in the open air in a place where they COULD BURN and not create a problem ( steel bucket works ). You need a rigorous program to shut shop down. Same game every day. Compressor, bottles, forge(s) etc. all need to have attention paid to them. Rags and other fire potentials need dealt with. Class "A " fires are the main problem in my shop that need to be kept under control ( towels, newspaper, trash). I keep stuff liike this picked up pretty well but need to stay on it.

[ThomasPowers]

Passivating is removing any free iron at the surface of a forged or welded stainless piece. Can be done as simply as soaking in a citric acid solution (sold in the backing/canning section of the supermarket) to as fancy as buying specific stuff made for it at the welding supply store.

generally you don't even need to do that; but if you live in a climate that is rough on metal it will help.

Thomas

[Pat Roy]

I once applied boiled linseed oil right out of the can direct to a project. It took weeks to get past the tacky stage. And that included putting it into a warm oven for a while to try and cure it. Should I be thinning it and if so with what?

[clang]

i tried multiple coats of Future acrylic floor wax over linseed oil on some outside hinges...lasted about 4 months...Clang