If you are cheap like me, go to an auto salvage yard. here is your guide. (not great quality)

 

 

The one somewhere on this site is just a wall of text. maybe i'll compile it into excel or something. 

Like most of these type of things it's not extremely accurate.  Manufactureres can use *any* alloy they think will do the job and be the cheapest and can change alloys at will.

 

The classic example of junkyard steel errors is the list that said that jackhammer bits were S-7, because Machinerys Handbook said S-7 was an excellent alloy for such things.  Unfortunately it's a whole lot more expensive alloy than a fairly simple medium carbon steel which is what 99+% of them are...acording to a fellow who spent a career re-forging and heat treating them to the tune of over a million of them!

Like most of these type of things it's not extremely accurate.  Manufactureres can use *any* alloy they think will do the job and be the cheapest and can change alloys at will.

 

 

That's a very accurate asessment.

 

And I would add, ... that the ease with which ANYONE, ... ( even suposed "reputable" sources ) ... can "self publish" that sort of data, ... with NO editorial oversight, ... leaves us in a situation, where I'm reluctant to believe, ... at face value,  ... ANYTHING found on the web.

 

 

That being said .....

 

Quite often, in various Forums, ... I read lenghty and scholarly discussions about the properties of  this grade of Steel, versus that one, ... that would befit a Doctoral Thesis on Metalurgy.  :rolleyes:

 

And in the course of those missives, it becomes clear that the intended use of the material, is most often quite general in nature, ... and the excessive concern with the minute differences in material, is TOTALLY IRRELEVANT to the intended process, and product.

 

 

Thankfully, our predecessors were intelligent, pragmatic indivuals, ... who routinely employed their wits, to adapt whatever materials were available, to accomplish their goals.

 

 

 

 

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Smoothbore you hit it on the nail..many times I have said it on this forum...Anyone with a membership here and a keyboard may proclaim just about anything.......

By the same token,,it does not take long at all to read a few items and see if they are real or couch smiths. 

Many of them that I have asked for something to show they have the knowledge/skills to back it up,,,never respond to me. 

However some of them continue to post answers to questions that to me just aint real...

I never said it was accurate, just a probable kind of steel that you might find.

Adman, I I gets us in the ball park as to what grade of steel it is, as apposed to specific type of steel. It's useful to know. When you consider that there is a narrow range of steels that will meet the needs of a particular application, wile keeping, cost, reliability and weight considerations in mind. For most general smithing its plenty close enough.
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I did once run into a low carbon strain hardened leaf spring---wouldn't quench harden even in water!  Of course that's one in about 33 years...

 

However some of them continue to post answers to questions that to me just aint real...

 

I follow a couple of Antique Machinery Forums, where folks often post photos of unusual Machines and Tools, in an attempt to learn more about them.

 

Sadly, ... there is a certain contingent that view that, as an opportunity to offer their "best guess", ... no matter how ill considered.

 

 

That's not much of a problem to someone who's "been around the block" a few ( hundred ) times, ... but it's a dis-service to the sincere novice, ... who posed the question, seeking thoughtful, accurate assistance.

 

 

 

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Gotta pipe up here.  The original poster tried to share a resource on Blacksmithing without proclaiming it's accuracy, superiority or all encompassing usefullness.  The context indicates it's for junkyard salvaging for blacksmithing.

 

Nothing about this smacks of trying to provide a doctoral thesis on what must be used for an engineered production line.

 

The tone coming from senior and knowledgeable responses to the original post borders on aggressive.

 

Knowledge can be measured on a continuum. There's going to be folks starting out on one end and masters of the knowledge on the other.  To take these responses into perspective - it's seems it's acceptable to exist only on the extremities provided you genuflect as a rookie and curate a museum of your achievements as a master.

 

The fact is that "couch" smiths may have something to add.  They may also be wrong like anybody else.  I've met plenty of otherwise masterful tradesman who learned something new from someone less knowledgeable.  Old blacksmithing texts include plenty of factual errors - that's just part of the challenge of learning.  You must always be willing to question what you know in order to be sure of it's value.

 

It might be time to tone down the curmudgeonly responses.  You can't simultaneously encourage learning while stifling folks trying to share what they've found. 

   I can't order a piece of steel with a budget of about $5.00 so i have to look for a "somewhere in the ballpark" guide. This is my contribution. You dont have to follow it, it is just a rough, possible, steer you in the right direction guide. not a fact sheet. Thank you for reading and comments.

No problem; you just need to warn new folk that such guides are "a slender reed" indeed!  Or else you get folks thinking they are getting/using stuff they are not or even worse misleading other folks further down the line---If I make a hardy from a jack hammer bit, (which I have done a time or six...), I might think that "gee this S7 doesn't work nearly as hard as I was told; but if I then sell that hardy to someone as *being* S7 then I'm misrepresenting product which is a big purple no-no to me.  Much better to sell it as "jack hammer bit steel" but even so that person might search on that and get a junkyard steel chart that specifies a steel that isn't used!

 

So feel free to post such things; but PLEASE include a warning that these are often just a guess and should NOT depended on save as a starting place!

good point and taken to heart. If ever i post something like this again, i'll be sure to include a disclaimer

Thanks!  There are a boatload of blades out there made of OCS steel  (old chevy spring).

I hear axles make good hammers too

Admanfrd, don't get too hung up on the exact type of steel, just gauge the use! IE. Driveshaft or similar = strong & spring = will harden etc. Bearing she'll = very tough etc.

As a beginner you just need to apply a bit of common sense and you will quickly get the drift. Thanks for taking the effort to post none the less.

 

Ian

Admanfrd, don't get too hung up on the exact type of steel, just gauge the use! IE. Driveshaft or similar = strong & spring = will harden etc. Bearing she'll = very tough etc.

As a beginner you just need to apply a bit of common sense and you will quickly get the drift. Thanks for taking the effort to post none the less.

 

Ian

Admanfrd, don't get too hung up on the exact type of steel, just gauge the use! IE. Driveshaft or similar = strong & spring = will harden etc. Bearing she'll = very tough etc.

As a beginner you just need to apply a bit of common sense and you will quickly get the drift. Thanks for taking the effort to post none the less.

 

Ian

Thanks!  There are a boatload of blades out there made of OCS steel  (old chevy spring).

 

I'm somewhat fond of OTS steel (old toyota spring) because my neighbor donated a full set of coil springs to me and then a fellow at church gave me the leaf springs from an old toyota pickup truck.  It may or may not be 5160, but it sure acts like it.

And may very well be 5160---or 9260, or ??? but will always be OTS!