ptree

here are some photo's to show how thin these filters are.

Very nice, and since I too make many of these, I will shamelessly steal, ... ahhhh copy you design Thanks for sharing

Machinery feeds are easily checked in the Machineries Manuel. ANY version will have tables of info, giving feeds versus speeds for different materials. These green bound books are an absolute wealth of good info that can be banked on. The older versions of the "Green Bible as the Machineries Manual is oftem know are often available pretty cheap. My Dad found my 1942 version for $1.00 at a yardsale about 25 years ago. The feeds refer to how far the tool advances per revolution. IE no matter the rpm, the drill bit will advance 0.003" per revolution if set to the .003 feed. Power feed is a joy when used correctly, as the drill advances evenly, and at near optium rate. A well sharped drill, properly lubed/cooled and on power feed will shoot a big drill faster than you would ever dream. On the other hand, something to remember is that with good lube/coolant, a properly sharped drill in something ductile like plain steel plate will tend to make one long even corkscrew shaving per flute, and these start to whip as they get long. They are also razor sharp, and if drilling at near max feed may be blue from the heat. NEVER touch one of these with you hand, even gloved, as they can cut wight through a leather glove. ESPECIALLY be careful when the shaving is whipping and the drill turning. Make a chip hook. this is a simple 1/4" rod with a hook on one end, and a wood handle on the other of reasonable lenght, say 24". These give you a way to pull the shavings safely. Another way is to simply interupt the feed every time the shaving gets to a lenght that you want. This does require an easy to start/stop feed. Looks like a real find, enjoy.

I searched the web some and did not find the A.O. Safety #8084 Conform P100 filters The A,O Safety # for a box of 10 is 50532-00000. Since #M bought AOSafety, I can show a similar filter that fits the #M half face respirators. look at http://www.coopersafety.com/product/3m-2091-p100-filter-2-pack-1594.aspx or similar. These are the best rating of P100 for particulate. There are also versions for nuisance level Organic vapor(Paint) as well, but only for nusiance levels. Good luck. I am currently out of replacements for the Conform P100, and will be asking my former AOSafety rep (Now 3M) for help in finding a box of new old stock. My resoirator facepieces are still good, and I like them. But i may have to change to the Newer 3M and loose the Latch feature. The 3M filters will NOT interchange :(

Let me get a photo and PN on the filters. I will try to psot today

ou are welcome. If you can fiond one, A.O. Safety made a great half mask respirator that took very thin "Pancake" style replacable HEPA filters, called a "Quicklatch" I use them and love them as they fit under a weld hood, and when you need to answer the phone etc just step into a clear air area, lift the latch and the whole mask drops down and leaves your face clear. To restore just flip the latch and the mask refits to the face. 3M bought A.O. Safety a year or 2 ago, and discontinued the mask, but some are still on the shelf. A Quicklatch was about $19 wholesale and a box of 10 filter pairs of the HEPA Pancake style was about $12.

A P100 is a great particulate filter that is Permissible to use where oil mist is present. Plasma cutting makes "Fume" which is metal smoke. Very fine droplets of melted metal that freeze back to solid, yet are small enough to remain airborn and to be inhaled. The P-100 is actually the respirator of choice for dust of the size of fume. A HEPA filter is the same effectiveness. I wear a HEPA rated filter, that is rated for metal dust, fume radionuclides and fibers such as asbestos. Hint for saving dollars, if oil mist will not be present, esentially a dry environment, a N-100 is the same filter, about 10 times cheaper just can't use around oil mist.

My truck is a 1972 Chevy C-20 Camper Special Custom Delux. It has about 92,000 miles and I am the second owner after my Father-in-Law. Mine is really a 1 ton, has leaf spring rear end unlike the majority of the 1972 chevy's that had coil overs. Dragon Hood ornament

Grant was an online friend. He will be missed. May he rest in peace and condolances to his family We lost a true friend to the craft.

Started with 20 Mule team, tried Easy Weld but it left a dirty looking joint. Use Larry Zoeller's Z-weld now, and it is best I have found.

Frank Turley, I have seen some split crosses here in the US in an old grave yard. They were dated for a death in the 1880's if I recall. Made from Wrought, and had applied scrolls, but a split cross never the less.

I have a 70# version of the rusty. In acuality the Rusty and Krusty are both take offs of the 1870's Powell patent leaf spring guided helve hammer. Mine uses an odd ball motor, a 220Volt single phase of 5Hp and 1740 rpm. I have a 2" od steel wheel running on a roughly 21" compact spare tire. Gives a nice controllable rate. I get in the area of 166 BPM if slippage is ignored. At 70# that is pretty effective.

I forge the copper crosses exactly like the steel, with the exception of colder and the metal moves wonderfully easily.

I have made split crosses from stock as small as 1/4" and as large as 2.5" The bigger the longer they hold the heat:) For the little ones I move my demo anvil very close to the forge and use a nice little hammer and they are no trouble at all to forge. Cutting them is a little tougher then the medium sizes. I have forged these in steel copper, bronze brass and silver. Copper makes very nice split crosses.

I would echo to buy the sizes needed in the best quality you can afford. Then use a high grade tap lube when tapping and thread cutting. For mild steel, I have found the best to be "Tap Heavy" from Master Chemical Co. I have found that American Made HSS are way better than any Chinese made taps and dies.

I make lots of pigtails, and ever since I met a left handed chef who said he could not use a pigtail because he kept tossing the meat on the ground, I also make left handed versions. Pick up a normal pigtail and try to use it left handed and you will see what he meant. I just do a mirror image or the right handed version. At demo's I always have both, and make a point of telling folks I have them in both hands. I sell a lot of left handed since those folks often feel left out. These are great things to experiment with as far as handles go. Kube60, good work, and I am sure those being gifted will love them.

I say DON"T do the conversion. First, no one will fill it for you, period. Second, a CO2 tank in the soda fountain size is not expensive, can be filled/exchanged, and is designed and built for the service. I use a "soda Fountain" size bottle with my 110Volt mig and it lasts a long time, costs about $13 to have refilled here in S, Indiana. The CO2 extinguishers make nice bells.

In effect, as I read Bashers post he wants to use two pumps he has to in effect make a 2 stage pump. In my experience with a very few exceptions noisy pumps are either damaged, or have poor inlet conditions and cavitation. The inexpensive 2 stage pumps here in the U.S. the Barnes used on most log splitters are indeed somewhat noisy in many set-ups. These have a high pressure low volume section and a high volume-low pressure section. In effect, when the set point is reached, an internal valve switches and the low pressure pump is short circuited to itself to prevent the low pressure portion from making pressure. Simple, cheap, reliable, no external piping and did I mention cheap? Want to quiet a noisy pump, and make it run cooler and longer in one fell swoop? Run the pump submerged in the oil tank. You simply buy a long bell housing to ft the motor/pump combo, mount vertically and have the pump fully submerged in the tank. No suction plumbing to worry over, no suction head pressure issues and these gentlemen, are keys to reducing pump noise. The next secret, is to use a tank that is RIGID!!! A too thin home fabbed up tank will vibrate and make any system noisy. Most pumps this size need to be mounted to 1" by 2" runners welded to the top of the tank. And last set up that inexpensive 2 stage fixed displacement pump to run open center when not loaded, taking almost all of the load off the system. Properly arranged a hydraulic system should be very quiet. If not quiet, the system is singing the blues and crying for help. If that route is not acceptable, then spring more money, much more money for a separate pump un-loader and pipe it up yourself. And if not correclty plumbed and adjusted the chatter of the un-loader will be unreal. Next step up the ladder, more money is a Variable volume, pressure compensated pump. These will run to a max volume and then as the pressure builds, the pump will de-stroke the swash plate and make less flow, but high pressure in a completely variable manner. Much more sensitive to dirt, usually needs better cooling and some of these are VERY loud, mostly the big ones often seen on cement mixer trucks. Here in the US a 2 stage, 3000 PSI, 28GPM pump needing 16 Hp to run can be had for $289 each $269 if you buy 4 at a time. http://baileynet.com/index.php?dnfwd=1&page=ProductDetails&line=GPTS&baileyno=252-212 Good luck

I have made several hood ornaments, all dragons with spread wings. First one went on my then 16 year old Daughters art car. Had a Barbie doll with long blonde hair riding the dragon. When the car died the dragon ended up on my 72 chevy truck. The long hair makes a heads up display speedometer:)

It is good to be a blacksmith when an hurricane blows high winds all the way to Indiana and you are in the shop. As you look out the door and see trees blowing by that several thousand # powerhammer is reassuring. That is once you are on the downwind side:) It is good to be a blacksmith when an ice storm drops a tree on your outside wood burner, being run off a generator since the power is already out. After an hour with a chainsaw in a blizzard to clear the tree, a broken 2" bronze street ell is found to be cracked, and some oddball relays fried by the hot water. Being a blacksmith, the ell is removed, brazed up, and some relays found in the stash and heat is back on a few hours later. The power was out for a week, so the house would have frozen and we would have been up a creek without that brazed ell and relays.

You might be the wife of a blacksmith if: Your kids all have safety glasses of their own. Your 8 year old daughter can forge a S hook Your 16 year old daughter has a forged dragon hood ornament on her first car. Your beautiful 4 year old with long ringlet hair likes to wear bibs and walk around craft festivals with something iron and say" My Daddy just made this, want to buy it?" And the 4 year old sells several hundred $ in iron a day! You need a tack hammer, and your hubby makes you one. You need a rack for your bike to carry your lunch, and your husband spends the weekend making one, and it weighs 1/10th what the store version does.

I have lots of experience with 316SS and both 410 and 416SS. The #16 in the 316L grade is nice to arc weld, forges well, but at a lemon yellow heat and takes at least 50% more effort. The surface needs clean up and passivisation to remain stainless. Most folks forge too cold on the 300 series. Remember that these are in the 18% chrome and 8% nickel range and are therefore hot hard and hot strong. The 410 forges nicely and is just a little easier to move. It is a 13% chrome and about 3% nickel. It too needs the surface cleaned post forge but can be heat treated to about Rc38-42. Both will polish nicely. The 410 is stainless until elevated temps, well above any natural environment. A caution on exhaust valves. Big engine valves, and most aircraft piston engine exhaust valve are hollow in the stem and are sodium filled to improve stem cooling. NOT a good choice in the forge.

Cumberland Elkhorn coal Co. in Louisville KY sells and ships palatalized Sewell seam coal. Last time I was there they had just stretch wrapped a pallet to go to Washington State. NOT cheap coal, but the best I have found.

Colleen, My younger son has pretty severe scarring from a dog mauling on his head. He had 90 stitches and staples in his then 4 year old head. In the summers after, he would want very short hair, what we call a "Buzz Job" in the US. Think all hair to say 5mm. The scars looked like a road map, and adults would get a shocked look and say "Oh my God, what happened to your head to make those scars?" He soon tired of that and began to answer, "Those arn't scars, those are ancient writings" and stomp off, leaving the adults to think about what they had asked of one so small. He is now 21 and when his hair is short, the scars still show, but he is cool with that. His hair is now down to his shoulders so the really quite severe scarring is fully hidden. Kids are tuff, and adaptable. That said, no metal swords for mine when they were small either:) They did have full tool sets in the shop, which they used on project with me present. My then 13 year old daughter was the only girl her age at her large high school with a roll around tool box full of tools and advised the boys on how to fix their cars, as she usually knew better then they. Imagine the scene when my 5' tall, 100# cute daughter was telling the big boys how to fix their cars:)

Best never-seize ever? Dow Corning Anti-seize 1000. I tested every anti-seize on the market some years ago for my employer in the engineering lab I ran. This was hands down best. Want the best extreme pressure lubricant, and it also is the second best anti-seize? Dow Corning GN Assembly paste. This was also a big test in the same lab. And in 4 easy lines you just learned what a major maker of industrial valves spent about $40,000 to find out by serious experiment For you here on IForge Iron? Priceless :)