Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver

I also don't see any reason to believe any heat was involved.

There just is no reason to believe it was done at the mint. It was done after it was struck, so it could have happened anywhere.

Nice job Wes! Should last another fifty years.

My experience won't help much, but I thought I'd add it in here anyway. Partly just to show that what others are doing has little to do with what you should do. I use 3 X 60 and 3-1/2 X 120 almost exclusively 36 grit.

Very impressive!

You call that a limerick? A Limerick is more like: There was a young lad name Dempsey Who had tired of programming CNC So he went to the town Where the big blacksmiths pound And cried "I wanna be just like them, see"?

Well, it gave a longer stroke, more power and was MUCH QUIETER! Besides, a larger breaker like that can take more than 100 CFM of air!

Yep, that's the exact same beast. It comes with a jackhammer type ram for the upsetter. I replaced that with a hydraulic ram of about 50 ton.

Yeah, but when was the last time you did something where that would cause a problem? Seems like a problem everyone worries about, but never (OK, rarely) runs into.

Around here we've run lots of different hammers right on the floor with a timber pad underneath. I think one of them (in the Craig's list ad) was a straight helve (un-guided). I'd be happy with any of them.

According to the Energy Information Agency, the current average price for propane is $2.82/gal. in bulk. You sure you're not talking about a 100 POUND cylinder? About 4 feet tall and 18" diameter?

You've got a very nice control system there Ken. Is the control 100% with the motion valve? Or does the treadle also control some sort of air throttle too? When small steam hammers have a foot treadle it usually only controls the throttle. Not a very good system most of the time. Have you seen the video of the steam hammer that I modified to control both valves with the treadle?

I'm with Phil (did I say that?) and 200 pounds ain't exactly small.

I don't think there would be any problem with an anvil built-up like that. Note the way he banded and capped it.

Really?

Looks to me like it's still here.

Has a factory installed orifice.

You may no longer be a youngster if: The oldest thing at an antique mall is YOU!

One reason (and there are others) I never come down straight from the top is that when you shut the forge off they act as chimneys and all the hot gasses go straight up cooking everything.

There is a short 1-1/4" nipple and then the cast iron burner shown. It has a ring of small holes like torch tip with a 1" hole in the middle.

No, it's got a short angle in and a long angle away from the venturi. Here's some pictures of one running in a forge I banged together in five minutes with some fire brick. Not the most efficient way to build a forge. Note that even with it closed up pretty tight there is a minimum of dragon breath. A true venturi should have no trouble pulling in enough air.

Of course there are degrees of hard and soft. Cast iron is too soft for an anvil and pure wrought is too soft for a hammer. In the old days they went to a lot of trouble to put a steel face on a wrought iron hammer (same with anvils for that matter). Basher, I think your soft hammer is hard enough. Unhardened is still harder than soft material. Hard and soft are just too general. How hard is hard? How soft is soft?

:lol:

I put up a video showing how to embed videos here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23501-how-to-embed-a-video-in-the-current-iforge/

Here's the video: