Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver

Here's what I know: Hard is better than soft, big is better than small. I don't need to know more.

Aren't there pictures of it displayed in my post? I see them. Let me know, might be a permission thing.

Kayne & Son (Blacksmiths Depot) carries the venturi used in the above video.

Actually, this one is running on a venturi mixer:

That's right on the spec for an older Nazel. They seem to have increased the weight over the years.

Very good points. Add to that the temperature the part is at when it goes in. Like if you just finished forging the end and now you want to heat farther back. What we call "fire management". Something we thought we left behind with the coal forge.

One of the reasons for the tangential burners is to direct it away from the work and allow time for complete combustion. Right in the flame is the worst place to heat a piece of steel. It's full of super-heated oxygen, unburned fuel and all kind of nasties that screw up welding.

Rarely do you actually see steel melting in your forge. The liquid you see is usually molten oxide (scale). When you reach near melting the slag usually runs off of the piece, it starts sparking and then sorta falls apart. After that it will melt.

You don't "steel wrought iron", you steel a tool. Like steel a chisel or steel an axe etc.

You can make a spring tool or a "C" frame tool holder. You can use a fence to get the groove started then just use the groove as a guide. If you leave the fence on it'll be pushing away from the fence as the metal spreads.

Used to have a similar pneumatic one that hang from the crane for driving keys on big hammers.

Hey Phil! You know I never give you a break. I could just as easily let this slide, but why spoil my perfect record? Portland cement is actually the active ingredient in concrete. :D

I realize you're putting a bunch of steel in your mix, but I just wanted to mention as a little "Strange, but true". Did you know that normal concrete weighs just about exactly the same as aluminum? Strange.............but true.

As others are asking "Do you NEED to remove it"?

So reefera4m, do I know you?

A used anvil will sell for exactly what someone is willing to pay.

No, I think we were shooting for ±200 BPM.

I like pinning and great big tension bolts to put the crack in compression.

Why don't you just cast square blocks? No need to make housings that way. Machine them up square, drill and tap them to bolt down like pillow blocks.

Not a bad idea. One problem right now is that the anvil is far from flat. Nice big dual-shield To really burn it in and sneak into a narrow slot in the middle.

What'cha need?

Looks good. I don't understand "117º block" though.

Can you pull the stem down by hand? If I remember, on the 2-B, you should be just able to pull it down.

Here's the 25 pounder I built:

By Darryl Nelson: