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I Forge Iron


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About KjZitur

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  • Location
    Avon, Minnesota
  • Interests
    training and riding horses, search and rescue
  • Occupation
    Fulltime Blacksmith

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  1. I run my MZ75 on a 20 some year old C'aire 5hp two stage with a 80 gallon tank with 17cfm........
  2. Thanks Dan, Matt. This hammer worked nice for me at 40-60 psi. As for the lines on the sides of the dies.....your guess is as good as mine.....the dies were on the hammer when I got it...
  3. I finally had some time to finish this project. Nice little hammer, I am going to miss it............
  4. what size are the dies on this hammer??
  5. Hey Bruce, interesting hammer design with the two cylinders. I will be looking forward for the results of your before and after power hammer tests..........ken
  6. Hey Jim, that would be a blast making small iron out of big iron!! The hammer needs a bottom die though.........
  7. Here are some pics of a 1500lb. Morgan Steam Hammer on display at the Rolag Steam Threshing Show grounds. This is like the one I operated when I worked for the railroad. Unfortunately they don't do any hot work under this hammer, just use it as a drop hammer for stamping some aluminum plates................
  8. Sure can, Javan. Can you post or email me a few side view pictures of your hammer.......
  9. Danger, I am wondering if the things I have observed with my style of steam hammer linkage would apply to your Chambersburg in regards to single blows and reciprocating motion. I think they would as both systems are similar. I apply pressure to the motion (directional) valve ( I use a spring) which forces the tup down and spring pressure on the treadle to lift it up which, through the linkage, forces the tup upward. What I have found is to little spring tension on the treadle and the tup will not lift all the way up. To much spring tension just makes it harder to push the treadle making precise control of the tup more difficult. Less pressure on the directional valve makes the hammer reciprocate easier with less psi and makes for a longer hammer stroke, but makes bringing the tup down smoothly for that single blow more difficult. More pressure on the valve gives you a smoother down stroke but requires more psi, shortens the hammer stroke and also speeds up the bpm. That's my 2 cents (which is real only worth about 0.0002 cents nowadays!!)
  10. are you able to get the hammer cycling when you have the hammer set this way? In your video, your hammer looked like it was reacting like my set-up does when I have it in the treadle hammer mode, I am able to get it reciprocating but it is a little harder to accomplish.
  11. Danger, you say you have the treadle connected to the motion valve. Do you have a spring on the treadle to keep the treadle in the up position to keep the hammer from cycling?......
  12. Did a test run on the Bull hammer today. It needed 55psi to get it going. Hit pretty good. Cranked it up to 95psi and really made it rock! At the 60psi setting I was able to pound a cork into a bottle but it will need a little fine tuning. Will post a video asap. Mark, I don't have any way of knowing if it hits harder than the original one, maybe you will be able to tell me after I get a video posted. The cylinder on the KZ150 is a 2-1/2" bore. I am running my hammers with a 5hp 17cfm compressor with an 80 gallon tank. Yes it is the same kit for either hammer
  13. doc, that is certainly possible. I did not see the hammer in operation, all I know is what the owner had told me..........
  14. There is no spring on the bottom side of the cylinder. There appears to be about 3/4" of stroke left in the cylinder when the dies are touching. There is however some rubber bumpers on the top side of the tup that the PO had put in place due to the hammer trying to "beat itself to death" (the way he described it) with the original Bull hammer linkage.
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