Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver

Can't do much forging with THAT! :blink:

Their blowers are perfect for their forges. I used one on a small home-built too, they put out a lot of air.

Hard to tell from the pictures. If it just has a swale in it and nothing chunked out, go for it.

I'd keep looking. A rather large part of the tool steel face looks to be gone.

Glad I didn't say 100%! Looks like it has the attachment points, although it doesn't have the obvious slot in the connection to the beam shown in "Pounding Out The Profits". On top of the beam where the toggle links attach, is the a slot that the cross-piece can run fore-and-aft in, like 4-5 inches? Can't quite see in your pictures.

I don't see anything in the design that would allow for stroke adjustment on the fly. Not saying 100%, but I don't see it.

I believe that what you need with the newer model is a low pressure regulator. They used to just use a simple orifice just to limit the amount of gas you can let in. I've had the old ones hooked up to high pressure gas and could send flames 20 feet high! Check with Johnson, they'll be happy to help you.

The cut-outs might just mean the beam has been re-purposed.

Actually John means .680 shank. If you're doing repeat parts around that length you could build yourself a fixture on an "I" beam with an adjustable backstop. Maybe even with a big screw and a spoke wheel to feed the work in. Actually, if you secure the part well, you could make the same sort of fixture using a hand-pump hydraulic jack.

I'm in the wrong business! I need to be making "genuine antiques made while you wait"!

It was originally part of a Blacker hammer. The hammer could traverse the length of the anvil and that spot allowed the front edge of the hammer to line up flush. The original base that is with it has screw adjustment to line it up.

Shows what a well tuned machine with gentle drawing dies can do!

For 2 HP a Teco VFD can be had for $144.00. --->HERE And you'll save most of that on a cheaper motor and pulleys and controls.

No, that makes art!

Think they were talking about dripping hot wrought iron!

I suspect he's not talking closed impression dies, that would be very expensive for each one. Pretty hard to justify for short run.

I agree it "looks" like a shear blade, but that doesn't mean that it is. Shear blades of this type are usually S-5 tool steel although I've seen other materials used like 1095.

Yes, he demoed at my shop then too. He still loved the grocery isles when he got here too! From Seattle one evening he could see the Olympic Peninsula across Puget Sound. Looking out over the water he asked, "Alaska"?

Cannot be beat if the machine has enough power to heat the next part fast enough that it's ready when you finish the previous one. And I really hate having 10 parts in the fire when anything interrupts the cycle, like a loose bolt or the phone.

No, I wasn't arguing with you, just emphasizing it. Saving energy cost is just a benefit not so much a reason. Absolutely EVERYONE who has bought one is surprised how many things they end up using it for.

Well, there's efficiency and then there's efficiency. When you can walk into the shop, flip a switch and take a heat, that's efficient! When you can have the "forge" right next to you at the anvil, that's efficient. When you can take a very short heat and make an upset square corner in one or two heats, that's efficient. And upsetting, when you can get a short heat right where you want it, becomes a pleasant reality not just something you read about but can never accomplish. Yes, the most popular machine, by far, is the 15KW because it's the largest machine that can run on single-phase.

You're right, hard to discuss without defining brass and bronze.

Forging brass alloy C377: Copper 58 - 61 Iron 0.3 max Lead 1.5 - 2.5 Remainder Each Zn

Copper Alloy No. C46400 Naval Brass , CDA 464 ASTM B21 , ASTM B171 Chemical Composition % by weight Cu59 - 62 Fe Max 0.1 Pb Max 0.2 Sn 0.5 - 1 Zn 39.25 Depends on what you call brass and what you call bronze.

They're all forgeable in my experience, but many can't even stand a visible red. No worse than forging aluminum. Most of the bronzes are much more forgiving. Silicone bronze is one of the easiest and most popular.