junker

this is a leaf spring bowie a ranger friend of mine wanted (made to his shape specs). i've got the forgeing part finished, have a very light grind on it just to nock out all the pits and make sure it's flat with no bumps, and i have it oil quenched after i normalized it 2 times. how should i go about grinding straight, even bevels onto it. and how should i handle it?

wouldn't the vice in the video have a serious problem with hammering stuff in it's jaws? the whole wheel system looks a bit fragile for smacking good and hard

i was thinkin along the lines of flattening the roll and then rolling it a second time. as depicted by my horrible microsoft paint skills. (and yes that is a fruit rollup)

i wonder if a jug like this would work welded to a plate to be fitted into the hardy and then hit by a striker, or would that be too much stress for the hardy?

rolling it wouldn't count as an extra layer if it was welded together that way?

he said 1 million... not 20 million :P

thats really good to know, i was planning on welding the billet, then folding 2x, then twisting and then rolling it up into a spiral shape like a fruit rollup lol, hopefully that will be enough to cause adequate carbon migration.

i sincerely hope the police catch these men before you do, i would hate to see someone off this site, which seems much like an extended family to me, taken to jail and unable to take care of a loved one, don't forget about this as that would be an insult to her, but don't let blind anger take over and ruin both your's and her's life. use this situation to help others that have been given the same kick in the pants by life. i know this advise my sound foolish coming from someone as young as me but i have been matured greatly by things in life that would break most others, so please take this and don't ruin your life but use it the hold firm and take care of your wife.

ill get the book as soon as i can, but can you give me an idea of some steels that i can use to up the carbon content of the billet? i have a suplier for most tool steels in my area but the guys behind the desk only know the names of the tool steel and not it's carbon content.

i know this is n old thread but i don't oil my blower at all, i just take it apart every now and then (when i rebuilt it from the broken siezed chuck of metal it was i replaced the rivits with bolts for easy disasembly) liberally coat everything in amsoil marine grease, cover the teeth on the gears, absolutely everything.

i am currently working on a basic damascus billet for an americanized tanto style fighting knife (i hope), i currently have leaf spring, a 4wheeler driveshaft, and "knife steel i bought at acme industrial (im guessing around 80pts carbon) what other kinds of steel should i add in? im looking for contrast but mainly a finished carbon content around 90pts. advice would be much apreciated.

is cable damascus an ok material to make a guard out of? nor is it too hard and bound to shatter?

i use vice grips all the time, great for holding odd pieces of metal together for welding, keep a pair in the tools in my truck

ya awtta do the gas tank like me and a friend did on his 4wheeler. ya take 3 of those little propane tanks and cut a hole(once emptied completely of course) in the top of it(actually the side since the bottle is laying on it's side) and weld on just the top fraction of an inch of a piece of threaded steel/iron pipe on to each one and then cut down the pipe cap to fit, then drill and tap a hole in the bottom of each for a pipe fitting and connect them all together at a valve (kinda like a petcok). or you could just convert it to run on propane and use the bottles nomally and just worry about fabing a mount to hold the bottles and regulators, i helped my cousin do this with 1 of those mini crotchrocket things, but that was only with 1 bottle.

my mentor just went to alro metals and bought a circular piece of drop about two inches thick and about 2 1/2ft wide. he then welded a 4in square tube off center and mounted his post vice on that and the drop, that way he can roll it around when he needs to move it but it's plenty heavy not to move.

it's not really sandish but more like if u tore it off into little pieces

there is a small chance that the hammer was wrought iron, all i know is that it was really old, but like i said a very small chance, i would test it somehow if i could but it is nearely completely destroyed, even the steel farther back form where i was working crumbled, i might be able to find a piece of 2 if someone knows a test i could run

the other day i was try ing to forge a tomohawk out of a ball peen hammer. i had the eye widened with the drift i had to make just before the tomowak, but when i went to work of the hammer side (as opposed to the ball peen) it started to chip off even at yellow to just under burning temps, then after about 4 heats it just crumbled under my hammer. does anyone have any idea what could have happened?

ok so that didn't embed right, ill get the url: and:

actually frosty u may end up wit some of the kassik clan up there anyways. my aunt's getting married and moving to alaska this summer.

they're easy to do, but i do suggest the paralelogram for the center instead of the square, i just did that because of avaliable tools. and i just used an actual rivit and a rivit gun for the center, of course i had to hit it with the hammer a few times to get it as tight as i wanted also i'd like to use a little thicker steel on the reigns next time cause they fles a little too much for my liking when ur really bearing down on something.

i was thinking to do that but the neighbor has my grinder with the cut of wheels, all i had was my portaban and that would be a major pain to try to make that out of.

so for some reason i am incapable of making tongs, everytime i try they end up some horrible convoluted non-working mess. so i kinda got sick of it and decided my work is going to keep suffering until i get a good set of tongs. only problem is a can't afford to buy a set. so i decided that since i've been welding longer that smithing i'd give that a try. so here they are, uglier that sin but they actually work and work darn good.

i just went to rich's website and saw a thing on there that said from firefighter to knifemaker, sounds a whole lot like my mentor, from firefighter to blacksmith, even the name sound alot alike, rick hanshaw, rich hale lol. great loooking knife man, hopefully oneday ill be able to make stuff like that.

so one of the small ones like for automobile work wouldn't work?