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About Marcus_Aurelius

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  1. I agree with the others, looks like something that was molten, probably the remnants of a thermite weld. Anyways, got the chance to do some forging this weekend and knocked out a new pair of flat jaw tongs. I tried a couple of new things this time around such as rounding the reins and bending the end of them. I have been trying to make better and more refined tongs, these are definitely on that road. The next ones will be some scrolling tongs. I also forged out a herb chopper from some extra 1095, unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the chopper.
  2. Lots of excellent comments, yes I agree TP explained it well. -Mark
  3. I actually prefer the sway in my anvil, I do agree that it can be beneficial to straighten stock and have no intention of changing my anvil in anyway. I am simply curious to why the high quality wrought iron will sway more then the impure wrought iron. -Mark
  4. That is what I have always heard as well, anvils with high quality wrought iron are more likely to have sway. Why do you think this is? Under pure speculation I could consider that 'contaminants' could strengthen the iron in some way. As I understand it adding certain metals such as chromium to steel can increase its strength and rigidity as it is more difficult for the iron atoms to move around the larger chromium atom requiring more force and higher heats to move the metal. Could it be that low grade wrought iron has certain contaminants that strengthen it over its higher grade counterpart much like the chromium in certain steel alloys? I don't mean to hijack this thread with a off topic question. Just and interesting thought. -Mark
  5. I have a old Peter Wright, it is in good condition with a little sway which I do not mind. Mine is a wrought iron body and weighs 180 pounds, pre 1900s. Overall they are great anvils and will last as long as you take care of them. -Mark
  6. Had the chance to get in the shop today, forged out a couple of leaves which came out really nice. -Mark
  7. Looks very similar to a colonial I found a while back, but in much better condition. It looks to be in functioning order, I would go for it and use it.
  8. Thanks for all the info, I was thinking the same thing about the regarding the braze weld. Could be a fun hobby to get into sometime in the future
  9. Thanks for all the info, tungsten carbide is some tough stuff SLAG - I will avoid grinding on them from now on. Unfortunately I do not have much use for those chisels, I'll clean em up a bit and remove the gunk on them and go from there. -Mark
  10. I have only done a quick glance on the web, I was planning on looking more at carbide tips later tonight. my fault on the ‘carbon steel’ it was meant to read “medium to high” carbon steel - Mark
  11. Some time ago a family friend was kind enough to gift me a ton of old marble tools including a good set of marble chisels. The chisels are a carbon steel with some metal inserted for the cutting edge. This edge is the metal in concern. It does not appear to welded in but instead some sort of brazing as evident by the goldish colored material between the body of the chisel and the cutting edge. I do not believe it to be any kind of steel alloy. Here are my observations: 1. The metal will not show oxidization colors when heated up. 2. Will not polish like steel (a darker appearance) 3. It is incredible hard and will even leave a deep scratch in hardened 1095. 4. The metal is extremely brittle and will shatter if dropped 5. A 80 grit ceramic belt will barely touch the metal 6. The sparks created from the grinder do not extend more then a 1/8 inch from the contact point with the grinder 7. the sparks do not show any 'flares' or 'fireworks' Unfortunately the cutting edge is to hard to even use against hot steel, I have tried to draw back the hardness but to no success. I do not know what kind of metal this is, maybe a carbide alloy? Thoughts? -Mark
  12. Finished up the most recent project, a nice little hatchet for those long hikes. The hatchet head is made from a really thick railroad anchor and the handle is made from ash. I used a torch to burn the wood and I finished it with some blacksmith goop while the wood was still warm. I have never used the goop on wood but it gave a very nice coating. Definitely a project full of learning, its not perfect, the hatchet head is a tad loose on the ash, no matter how much I wedge it still loosened. I believe this is because I did not use the proper drift so the eye does not have the classic hourglass shape on the inside. I tried to correct this to some degree with files but to no apparent effect.
  13. Outstanding! I have gotten a whole ton of the red cedar from a cedar grove on a local mountain, its great wood to work with, and it smells good!
  14. The Cedars here are relatively hard, this handle was made from a suppressed tree that had incredible tight ring growth (about 80 years in a two inch section) maybe that increases its hardness?
  15. Been working on an outdoors knife for quite some time now. Finally put the finishing touches on it and I am thrilled by the way it turned out. This project was quite the learning experience especially the getting the leather sheath put together, leather really doesn't move like steel !! The blade is made out of 1084 with an Eastern Red Cedar handle (becoming a favorite for handle materials).