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Marcus_Aurelius

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About Marcus_Aurelius

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    West Hartford, CT/ Worcester, MA

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  1. I like the new term, thanks for clarifying. The propagation rate has always been a road block for me trying to understand burner physics. Your last two posts have been very enlightening and I believe I am more capable to tackle the burner and I understand the term a lot better now. I am going to hold off on the modification for a tad, there are some things I want to hammer on before I decommission the forge for a while. From a little research through the interwebs I believe the scientific term for 'Flame Front Propagation Rate' is simple 'Flame Speed'. Flame speed is defined as how rapid
  2. Thanks for the response Frosty, your logic and solution make a lot more sense. To clarify, does the 'rate of propagation' refers to the flame front, or the speed at which the gas burns? I forged out a hammer yesterday with the forge, still a champ, but I definitely want to get it hotter, I'll take you advice and get drilling. - Mark
  3. ITS ALIVE! Finally after many hours researching and seeing Lou's NARB in person, I have built up the nerve to give the NARB a go. This is the third Gasser I have made and my first attempt at a NA burner. So far it has gone swimmingly, except for one fact, its not quite at the temperatures I have hoped for. It reaches around 2000 degrees (just a guess) but I was hoping for forge welding temps. The forge is ~340 cubic inches with 2 inches of kaowool and about 1/2 of kastolite-30. It is about 10" long, 8" wide, and 5" tall. While I was casting the refractory, some of the wool was compre
  4. I am one of the lucky guys and I have a VFD on my Bader grinder. While it is not necessary to use a grinder effectively, it sure can be a real help. When I am using ceramic belts on hardened steel or really need to throw some sparks I'll crank up the speed. From my own experience higher RPM make tasks such as shaping wood handles for knifes/hammers, finer polishing on blades, and precision work harder. So I tend to tune down the RPM on those tasks. Regardless, with enough skill and patience all of these tasks can be done efficiently on a fixed speed grinder. -Mark
  5. Nothing quite like a chunk of schedule 8000 pipe, there are a couple of those THINGS at my local steel supplier, but not nearly as monstrous.
  6. I agree with what has been said, using modern equiment and techniques does not detract from the concept of a blacksmith. Depending on what you consider to be modern, these new editions allow us to do more, whether it is excellent heat treatment with a temp controlled oven or forging massive stock with the use of power hammers. These invetions do not take away from the craft but add possibilities. When do we consider 'modern' tools to be detremental to the craft? Certainly the development of the modern london pattern anvil by Peter Wright or the use of precision grade steels do not do this. In
  7. Looks good, I made up a pair that looked similar at the beginning of summer. Its nice when you can get one pair to fit a variety of stock sizes? Especially when you are forging your own tongs, so much less drawing out. (Although I still have the dream of walking into the 'shop' with a battalion of tongs.)
  8. Welcome to the forums! That is some interesting information, the process of using clay on the spine of a blade to create a hamon is a technique I have always wanted to try, it also gives me an excuse to make a chopper. As I understand the process the clay keeps the spine from fully hardening as it prevents direct contanct with the quencing medium. Then a blade is produced with a hard edge and flexible spine, cool stuff indeed. Did you apprentice with a smith in Japan? I have heard of lining the quench tub up from north to south, but I have always heard that it was nonsense, have
  9. I did the same thing, I used to use a 2-3 pound hammer for almost everything I did, including the small stuff. But when I started using my miniscule ball-pien for small scrolls and such it became much smoother and relaxing to work. Small hammers defintely have a place in the shop. Fraser - I am pretty sure when folks hand engrave they typcially use a hammer of similar size.
  10. Looks good to me, I have never worked with wrought, but I always like the look of it, especially for hammers. I have a small hammer, probably around the same size. Its got a handle to match, so it looks proportionant, but once and a while the handle snaps, kinda like a toothpick.
  11. I can't believe I forgot to name the book, you caught me red handed this time . The book is.... Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and geometry, written by Dr. Larrin Thomas. concerning the review, I'm hoping others have read the book and may give their opinion. (I believe it came out in July, so I guess that is a shot in the dark)
  12. The owner of the website KnifeSteelNerds has a PhD in metallurgy and he uses the site to create and publish articles and data on all aspects of metallurgy, especially the metallurgy of knife steel (as per the name of the site ). There are around 100 articles to read and they are all really comprehensive but very detailed. They will really bring out your inner-nerd. Anyways, Dr. Larrin Thomas (the owner of the site) just published a book all to do with the engineering of blades. Personally, I am going to order my copy tonight, but I have heard some great things about it. Have any of y'all
  13. That is one great looking blade. I love the low layer count damascus, there is something very unique about it, did you etch in Ferric Chloride? The handle is beautiful, I'm sure the fit up of all the intricate parts took a lot of patience. The handle really pops, especially the grain, what finishing method did you use? Thats a very intresting method for attaching the sheath to your pocket, I havent seen it before. How do you like it? Does it work well? Overall great job, definitely an inspiring knife. -Mark
  14. Frazer - even though I just finished this knife I’m already itching to make another, maybe a chefs knife. Frosty - for the glue up in between the brass/Micarta/Burl I used J-B weld cold weld original. It has a cure time of about 24 hours for it to fully set. I know JB isn’t the best epoxy out there but it’s what I had at the moment of that step. It dries to a nice grey/black color which I figured would hide any errors. I did do some testing of JB by using on a knife and abusing the blade until the handle cracked. I was genuine impressed by its strength. Later I used G-flex epoxy for gl
  15. Frazer- Yes the handle is held on with only epoxy, its a new brand I am trying, but I have heard some really good things about it, I can't remember the name off of the top of my head. The fit up is basically perfect, I used a black epoxy for gluing the brass and micarta together, so any imperfections are hidden nicely. That's a good thought about the Choil, that idea did not even cross my mind, I guess I could still add one, but I like the look as is. Thanks for the complement, I am really proud of it . - Mark
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