Marcus_Aurelius

Members
  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Marcus_Aurelius

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Connecticut

Recent Profile Visitors

158 profile views
  1. Took a free day to take a spin over to Logan Steel, came back with a nice score. Got a couple of railroad anchors, spikes, and a nice tie plate. A 3inch square tube which may make a nice quench tank... (just need to find a darn welder ), and finally 10 pieces of mystery round stock. One of the employees said anything not directly labeled is A36 but it was in a box labeled chisel stock... Will do a hardness test later.
  2. The rigidizer will help keep the wool in one spot and to some degree the harmful particles in. What I do is first I spray the wool with rigidizer (you buy the stuff online or make your own) and let it dry in the sun. Once it is cured I spritz on some water and add the refractory coating. The water helps let the refractory stick to the surface of the wool, and is especially important if you are using Kast-O-Lite as if the wool is dry it will suck the water right out of the Kast-O-Lite which is a water setting mix. Regardless, I would recommend you use Satanite and apply it in multiple small coatings until you have reached a good 1/4". After each layer let it dry in the sun or use a small light bulb to heat the inside. Once that is all said and done finish curing the coating with increasing heats in with the forge. The Satinite does tend to crack so make sure you have some more handy to do repair jobs. I would be careful with that mesh over your wool if you do apply a refractory coating. The expansion of the mesh as it is heated may crack the refractory. -Mark Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
  3. Before you fire it up make sure you cover the ceramic wool with a refractory such as Satanite, maybe you could coat it with the refractory you have already been using. When the wool gets up to temp it will release fibers that are pretty nasty to breath in, you definitely want to avoid that. With only hard refractory that forge is going to have trouble heating up without using tons of fuel. If its not efficient I would look into using that ceramic wool for the interior. Regardless I am excited to see it burning! -Mark
  4. Forged my first "functioning" bottle opener today With Lou L and JHCC!
  5. That looks great! I have a ton of eastern red cedar wood that is upward of 200 years old with tight ring growth, I'll try the linseed oil, it should make those rings pop.
  6. I love the look of the walnut! how did you finish it? What oils or what not did you coat it with? I've been playing around with cedar wood and have been using danish oil, but it darkens it a little to much in my opinion. - Mark
  7. Looks like a great find! I have an old Peter Wright with a wrought iron body, it has about a quarter inch sway but it face is hard and it works great. I would suggest leaving the anvil as is and working with it for a while before deciding on modifications. -Mark
  8. Thanks for the invitation, sounds like a great idea!
  9. The anvil definitely has seen better days, I can't imagine the difficulty it would take to restore it closer to its original beauty. I am not part of the Connecticut Blacksmith Guild but I have considered joining and attending events. I am relatively new to smithing (about a year or so of hammering) and I have always heard about the importance of attending events and classes, maybe its time to finally do that and learn from a blacksmith face to face.
  10. Thanks for all the responses, I'll let the anvil slide on over to someone who needs it more, it definitely is a cool find. -Mark
  11. Hello all, I found what I believe to be a colonial anvil at an antique store in Canton, CT (the precise weight is unknown but I would guess 85 pounds or so). It was selling for 100 dollars. Considering its condition would this be worth buying? There appears to be two cracks, one running down the side that is less then a centimeter deep, and a larger crack on the top surface. I am not an expert on Anvil restoration but I know it is possible to repair cracks in some cases. Is this crack to severe to weld or can it be used regardless of the crack? Any idea on the time period of the anvil or any other useful bits of information regarding these styles of anvils. Currently I have a 180 pound Peter Wright so I do not need another anvil but considering the history of this particular piece maybe its worth buying. Thanks, Mark