FlatLiner

You have the inventors of both the T burner and the Mikey burner on this site and both are more then willing to help you out on building burners. I have no horse in this race or experiance with atlas burners but from what I understand about burners a Modified Riel, Frosty T, Modified Sidearm, Zburner, or Mikey burner would be more efficient and in some cases just as easy to build.

Great anvil MacLeod.

Good to know Mike.

Mike it seems like you have reduced the number of openings in your 3/4" burner from 4 to 3, what are your thoughts on 2 openings opposite each other? Would it be an improvement or is 3 the magic number for a 3/4" burner?

Ya, people on KSL think that everything they sell used is made of gold and ask new prices for used items.

My sodoerfors has some small "wrinkles" on the sides frim casting but they arn't that big.

If you have issues with the concrete cracking and spalling you could always weld flat plate over the sides and fully encase it.

Awsome find. Well worth the beer. Definitly one of my favorite anvil patterns.

Looks like a version of an old church window austrian or bavarian pattern anvil. Looks like its seen plenty of work in its past.

I for one am intrested in seeing how this powerhammer build ends up, and seeing how well it funcions.

I like Charles ideas.

You are one lucky man Heino.

I took them down, I'm resizing them and the I'll repost them. Hopefully this works. Feel free to edit if needed moderator.

I'm sure it's been mentioned before but how exactly do I resize the pics?

I just got back from working in Wyoming. I visited my buddy that I got my soderfors anvil from and I walked away with this little guy. It is trunkated, it weighs 45.6 lbs, the face is 3 inches wide, from the shelf to the Hardy hole it is 7 inches, the Hardy hole was 3/4 inch, it's 7 1/2 inches tall with a foot print of 7 inches by 6 3/4 inches. It has a slight hourglass shaped indention on the bottom. What looks like a thin hardend steel plate is really just the edge that has been curled down from use. It looks to be welded at the waist. It has about 80 percent rebound on the face, it rings good until you test the horn then there's hardly any ring and it looks like the horn has a large fracture running through it. I can't find any dicernable makers marks or weight. I havn't done any spark testing on it yet to check if it's wrought iron, cast iron or cast steel. The only history I have on it is that he picked it up at a ranch estate sale. My buddy was going to use it as is until he had two massive strokes that left him unable to work. So he just gave the little guy to me. I was going to clean up the trunkated area and use it for edge packing on knives, small forging items or maybe just as a conversation piece. I find it amazing that the Vikings used similar sized anvils for most of their forgings. Maybe I'll try it out as a small travel anvil. Enjoy and forge on :-)

Here in Northern Utah the last time I saw it was $75 a ton. But good luck finding any scrap yard that will allow you to pick through their stuff. I've had better luck asking six states automotive if I can dumpster dive.

I have a swedish anvil with some pretty beat up edges but I also have a 5" x5"x 7" block of s7, a 5" x 19" (s7 or something similar)round post, and a rail road car knuckle. And to tell you the truth I use my improvised anvils just as much if not more then the old Swede.

Welcome Barclay03 always good to see a Scott on here. My great grandpa is from Cowdenbeath.

I have always liked the look of the hornless Bavarian style anvils.

I just remeasured it. It's actually 9" x 12" I might hang onto it and try it out as a future project.

I was also leaning towards it being to much trouble.

I have a large muffler from a full size pickup. It's outer dimensions are roughly 6 inches by 12 inches by 24 inches long. My plans where to cut the ends off, cut it in half, and make a forge that would be 6" x 12" x 12" but when I cut the ends off I found three inner baffle walls spaced at random intervals and tack welded to the outer shell. My question is does anybody know of an effective way of removing them with minimum shop tools? Or does anybody have any good ideas to remove them? Or should I just abandon the idea?

I would leave the patina and just put some linseed oil on it.

Sweet find A.R. I love my sodorfors, but it's in rougher shape then yours. I got mine in Wyoming. It looks like it had a hard life shoeing horses. I've never been able to find a date on mine though.

I have liked that first anvil since I first saw it Caotropheus.